Scope dope

Trigger Monkey

Ronin
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Apr 29, 2005
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    Winchester Virginia
    I've been making a couple revisions to my SPR and SPRecce, one of which is keeping some dope on the inside of the ocular covers again as a fall back option. In the past, I'd use some masking tape but this time I thought I'd make something "fancy". I know there are commercial options available but I didn't really like them so I took a little bit of column A and a little bit of column B to make something tailored to the two guns. Plus side is it also didn't cost me any money. I "laminated" them with clear packing tape and trimmed the tape so that it would catch on the inside of the cap to stay put. It's a bit janky but it works. I attached the template sheet in case anyone wants to use them, the larger one is 1.75" in diameter and the smaller one is 1.50" in diameter.

    scope dope data card.jpg


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    I’ve had something similar in the ocular cover of my SB525 on my Tikka. It’s not quite as clean looking as yours though. I think I’m going to have to swap mine out with the template you provided.
     
    I do the same thing, only I print it on Avery label paper, laminate the top with packaging tape. That way it’s not just the tape edge holding the dope on, but also the Avery adhesive

    Edit to add, once you tear the first one off to edit it, it usually leaves a film of paper that the next ones stick to very well.
     
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    who do yall think makes the best after market solution?
    For after market these Hoptic are the best I've found to date...

    Hard to tell in the pic but the round dope is a sticker you peel off and stick inside your scope cap. But I like what Trig Monk did with designing his own that mimics the tree in the reticle so you're not reliant on another paper, app, etc.
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    clicks.... seriously?
    Yes, but the charging handle ate it. I did add mils for hold off, though. I agree that clicks are juvenile, but my nx8 has 0.2 mil adjustments, and of course each mil is marked. My brain works better dialing something fast in a hurry when it sees "12 clicks" and just spins the knob 2 mils ("big marked numbers" representing 5 clicks ea), and adds two more, and done. Basically, for me, it works best. Juvenile and laughable, sure, but if it puts the bullet where it needs to go, I'll take the ribbing. With 0.2mil adjustments, 3.2mil in a hurry would have me dialing 3.4 actual. On a 0.1 scope, I wouldn't.

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    My first iteration of DopeTokens (copyright) was mainly geared towards two of my gas guns but I made some for the longer range crowd too that might stretch things a bit farther. Spacing's a bit tighter, especially on the 1 1/2" token but manageable I think, hey, you get what you pay for lol.

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    Cheers fellas
     

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    Yes, but the charging handle ate it. I did add mils for hold off, though. I agree that clicks are juvenile, but my nx8 has 0.2 mil adjustments, and of course each mil is marked. My brain works better dialing something fast in a hurry when it sees "12 clicks" and just spins the knob 2 mils ("big marked numbers" representing 5 clicks ea), and adds two more, and done. Basically, for me, it works best. Juvenile and laughable, sure, but if it puts the bullet where it needs to go, I'll take the ribbing. With 0.2mil adjustments, 3.2mil in a hurry would have me dialing 3.4 actual. On a 0.1 scope, I wouldn't.
    You do realize the process you just explained is your brain converting the clicks # to mils....
     
    You do realize the process you just explained is your brain converting the clicks # to mils....
    100%, what worries me is when I see "3.2 mils" That "2" is going to reflexively cause me to dial 3 mils and 2 clicks, because "2" and "2". That's what I am trying to get away from is the hind brain dicking things up.
     
    None of that made any god damn sense but if it works for you that's good I guess.

    Why are you dialing a 1-8? Like I know NF fucked up by leaving the turrets exposed on the 1-8 but that doesn't mean you need to use 'em all the time.
    Turrets are capped on my NX8s, why dial? I like to dial for elevation, hold for wind. Just habits from when I shot bolt guns with higher magnification scopes.

    Also, no, I don't think it would make sense to most people. I solve problems differently, so I do what works for me unless it's got a downside of merit.
     
    Pretty cool. I'll give it a try. I have some of that manchild's Backfire Turret tags on the shelf to try as well.
     
    Speed Drop is pretty good but it's not perfect, it's really only good for +/- .2 mil accuracy within it's range envelope which varies depending on the caliber and MV. Similar to modified MPBR, I see it as really good for speed on relatively close medium-large size targets, but my preference if the situation allows for it though is to use the exact dial or hold to the target.

    I do have the Speed Drop number marked on the turret but as they say two is one and one is none, in my case I have primary, secondary, and tertiary. Primary being my Kestrel, secondary being my data book, and tertiary being the dope I keep on the gun.

    Speed Drop Setting.jpg


    It's all just tools in the big marksmanship toolbox.
     
    I have a quick question....

    If you have your speed drop. Is there much need for the backup at all?
    View attachment 8618797

    Having a backup dope card is great....no question there. But paint marker 1.6 on the gun/scope somewhere and roll would be even easier as a fall back would it not?
    Speed drop doesn't work* with my gun, so yes, I use the tables.


    *It's accurate for the span between 150-350 yards, roughly, so pretty niche.
     
    Basically, gun mph is the wind speed at which the range equals your wind hold. For example, at 400 yards a 3 mph full value wind equals a .4 mil hold more or less....it's good to about 600 on my gas gun and then I add .1 mil every 100 yards past that. In higher wind speeds multiply the gun mph so a 5-7 mph would be about a .7-.9 mil hold.

    Speed Drop is a way to make your mil-based reticle into a quasi-BDC by depressing the zero below the crosshairs to the point where each full mil hash equals the range, 2 mil = 200, 3 mil= 300 yards, etc.... Using this method, you'll be +/- .2 mils of the actual dope within the range envelope, so it works well on medium-large targets best.