I just ordered an origin action and prefit barrel. I guess I need a wrench and a vice. Anybody make a decent kit they won’t break the bank for an occasional barrel swap.
Barrel vice and action wrench kit?
- Thread starter 7mm-08 Freak
- Start date
I never thought I'd see a suggestion for SAC when someone mentions "won't break the bank".
Viper barrel vise and PVA wrench will get the job done for just over 1/4 the price of just the SAC equivalent.
Viper barrel vise and PVA wrench will get the job done for just over 1/4 the price of just the SAC equivalent.
I think it depends on what kind of barrels you are going to go with. I have done just savage style profits with a nut using the action wrench from Northland shooters supply. I do not think you can wrong with it. I will be purchasing a barrel vise in the near future. There is recent post on here or accurate shooter that gives a lot of good advise on the barrel vise. There is one available for around $100.
- Nov 3, 2010
- 10,240
- 22,119
Do you use drywall tape with the Viper vise or is the manufacturer correct in that it wont mare surfaces?
I use the Viper as well and really like it, it's fairy inexpensive and well made and does a good job.
I was initially torqueing barrels barrels to 110ft lbs but may back off to 80/90. No slipping at all torque up or removal.
Use a 5x5 card toilet paper roll or whatever.
I was initially torqueing barrels barrels to 110ft lbs but may back off to 80/90. No slipping at all torque up or removal.
Use a 5x5 card toilet paper roll or whatever.
Any particular reason your first step isn't to get the action wrench from the action maker?
Northland Shooter Supply has the Zermatt action wrench for $85.
I use cardboard tube from toilet paper roll also. Vise has worked great everytime I’ve used it.
I use the cardboard roll out of a tp roll on mine. After a couple factory remington barrel removls my viper gice is pretty beat up, but I still use it/have used it a lot since the tough removals. I bent the top cap and had to bend it back, marred the finish, and one stud gualed to the nut. I replaced it and epoxies the studs in so they wouldn't come out.
I do quite a bit of spinning on small ring mausers (swedes) so a decent vise (well, and a correct action wrench) is a must. I have tried close to a half a dozen of different vises - Viper has been wonderful, as a matter of fact - its probably 10yrs old, all original, nothing ever failed. I use toilet paper center roll and a fine rosin to avoid mars or slips. Oak blocks could NOT spin most of the mauser military barrels off…
I can tell you first hand, that chamber casts are IDENTICAL prior to removal and after barrel was spun off.
I can’t say anything about drill rod, never tried it.
Are you suggesting it compresses enough to mark/jam a rod? Just curious
It will crush you bore enough that you won’t be able to remove the rod.
Get the zermatt action wrench so you don’t have to remove the ejector and I absolutely love my aero precision barrel vise. Very similar to the short action customs for less money and comes with probably every bushing you could need. I dont use any paper or tape between the bushings and barrel and have yet to have a barrel slip or cause any cosmetic damage.
I bought a PMA Tool barrel vice. Basically the same as the Viper.
Works well.
And I got the Zermatt wrench.
Works well.
And I got the Zermatt wrench.
Chamber cast will be- you're clamping the barrel a foot ahead of the chamber. It's obviously not going to affect the chamber behind it.
Barrels should always be clamped just ahead of the receiver ring.
OP this is the answer. Disregard all that BS about flames and crushing shit. Guys have been doing this for years and no issues. It’s as easy as screwing a bolt into nut. Some use a torque wrench on the action wrench and some just slam it home to what feels tight. Both work. It’s easy. Don’t stress it.
Actually I do clamp it in a chamber area, after its headspaced - I re-solder my rear sight base (so its leveled properly).
Perhaps my “anti slip spacer” provides sufficient insulator and prevents crushing…
Picture where I have clamped it about mid point- if you look closely- there are 6.5x55 Swedish armorer regimental headspace gauges. Meaning I was doing final headspacing tweaks and it does not require all that much force, unlike a 100-130 years old barrel removal.
I am not saying you are wrong, I just never personally encountered that (“crushing barrel”) particular condition and I have done 50-60 swede mauser re-barrels…
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