Sig Cross vs Tikka, etc

Shootinsurveyor

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Looking for a prs-ish type rifle for some informal shooting with friends and dreams of a competition one day. Possible choices include Sig Cross HTX, Seekins HIT, Tikka Ace, Aero Solus and possibly Seekins PH3

I have a Tikka Superlite that hammers and I have shot the TAC A1 which was also a hammer. Tikka is a known commodity to me and I have confidence in them.

Sig HTX is on sale at Europtic, but I’ve never gotten to shoot one.

Seekins have a great reputation and a cool switch barrel feature.

Aero Solus seems to be a good value and I’m comfortable swapping barrels and basic assembly.

I am purchasing 6.5CM in whichever gun I choose. Looking for accuracy to be sub MOA for a ten shot group. Let me know what you’ve seen between all these guns to throw some info into my decision beyond what I have.

Thanks
 
I would have a REAL hard time going with anything but a tikka at this point. I have CTR’s, a tacA1, a veil, T1x, I’m working on a new build from a lite, and I’ve had a couple superlites. If it’s in your budget, the ace seems pretty close to what you’d want.

Generally, I like buying the cheaper models and choosing exactly which stock I want. I’d rather spend $2k piecing together what I wanted from a base CTR, than $1800-$2k getting ‘pretty close’ with the factory all-in option. I feel like with the higher priced factory rifles, there’s always a compromise because you didn’t get to choose the stock. If the ace checks all the boxes, then go with that. I do like the look of the ace more than the TacA1.

From your list, I think the sig is the least desirable to me. And in 6.5cm, I’d go with 24” if I were doing it over. My 20” CTR in 6.5cm is slow as hell (but very accurate).
 
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If you are looking for a PRS style rifle, why not go with the Sig Cross PRS? I was in your shoes a couple months ago and looked at the very same rifles you are but also the Daniel Defense Delta 5 Pro. I ended up getting the Sig Cross PRS over the other Sig variants because it is purpose built for PRS and extremely well balanced. It is heavier, has a heavy target barrel, an excellent match grade 2 stage trigger and the chassis is absolutely outstanding. The best part? You can get the Cross PRS for $1499 at grabagun right now.

In testing different factory ammo for it, I found it to shoot the following ammo at .5 MOA or better: Sig 140gr OTM, Hornady 140gr ELDM, Norma 130gr Golden Target, Norma 143gr Golden Target. The other factory ammo I had on hand was some older Hornady 140gr AMAX and that shot just under 1 MOA.

The Tikka TAC A1 was the model I was looking at and as you know, they make an excellent rifle. The difference for me was the chassis. I just didn't like the TAC A1 chassis. I did not like the cheek riser at all and it was not balanced very well at all, which is uber important for PRS. As far as performance, I'd fully expect the Tikka to shoot just as well as the Cross, but there's no comparison to the chassis and the $800 difference in the street price, it's hard to pass on the Cross PRS. I'm so glad I made the decision I did.
 
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I would have a REAL hard time going with anything but a tikka at this point. I have CTR’s, a tacA1, a veil, T1x, I’m working on a new build from a lite, and I’ve had a couple superlites. If it’s in your budget, the ace seems pretty close to what you’d want.

Generally, I like buying the cheaper models and choosing exactly which stock I want. I’d rather spend $2k piecing together what I wanted from a base CTR, than $1800-$2k getting ‘pretty close’ with the factory all-in option. I feel like with the higher priced factory rifles, there’s always a compromise because you didn’t get to choose the stock. If the ace checks all the boxes, then go with that. I do like the look of the ace more than the TacA1.

From your list, I think the sig is the least desirable to me. And in 6.5cm, I’d go with 24” if I were doing it over. My 20” CTR in 6.5cm is slow as hell (but very accurate).
My superlite is lucky to hit 2600 with factory Hornady 140ELDM and it has the 24”. My T1X seems to be more in line with normal speeds.
I did think about finding a CTR or getting an action and screwing on a prefit. I’ve had my superlite in a XLR chassis and that was a great combo for accuracy and shootability.
 
I know Tikkas and I'd have to handle the others to compare. All my Tikkas feed 100%, the stock trigger is very good and they are accurate. The Sig Cross is definitely one I'd like to take a real close look at. The Backfire Utuber rates it as his favorite rifle.
 
My superlite is lucky to hit 2600 with factory Hornady 140ELDM and it has the 24”. My T1X seems to be more in line with normal speeds.
I did think about finding a CTR or getting an action and screwing on a prefit. I’ve had my superlite in a XLR chassis and that was a great combo for accuracy and shootability.
My 20” CTR is shooting 143eld-x @2500…. It’s also heavy as hell, which prompted me to build a lighter rifle and keep this one for varmints. My wife took a cow with it at 510y this year.

The one I’m building is starting as a lite. I have a 24” 6.5prc proof carbon and manners LRH on order. I’m hoping it will be around 2900fps.
If you know you want a pre-fit, save the money and go with the lite. I paid $655 for a new stainless 6.5prc lite on euro optic, after a rebate. You could have a prefit installed and still be under what the bare CTR costs nowadays.
IMG_5614.jpeg
 
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Tikkas are nice, but slow. My 20" shoots the same load the same velocity as my FIL 24" tikka. In general all tikkas run slow. So if you are going to rebarrel it for more speed you might as well go origin or solus.

The sig is nice and my wife's seekins ph2 is nice. Had a sig that was a legit 1/2" gun for multiple groups in a row. The problem with sig and seekins ph3 is you are locked into the stock/chassis. The ph2 is a rem700 footprint and opens up options for other stocks.

I would reccomend a solus if your thinking PRS style shooting. The r700 footprint just can't be beat for support.
 
I would have a REAL hard time going with anything but a tikka at this point. I have CTR’s, a tacA1, a veil, T1x, I’m working on a new build from a lite, and I’ve had a couple superlites. If it’s in your budget, the ace seems pretty close to what you’d want.

Generally, I like buying the cheaper models and choosing exactly which stock I want. I’d rather spend $2k piecing together what I wanted from a base CTR, than $1800-$2k getting ‘pretty close’ with the factory all-in option. I feel like with the higher priced factory rifles, there’s always a compromise because you didn’t get to choose the stock. If the ace checks all the boxes, then go with that. I do like the look of the ace more than the TacA1.

From your list, I think the sig is the least desirable to me. And in 6.5cm, I’d go with 24” if I were doing it over. My 20” CTR in 6.5cm is slow as hell (but very accurate).
Yes to Tikka for me also. 24” 6.5 CM. Semi accidentally ended up with 2. Buy with a factory brake. Get the cheapest factory stock and buy the chassis you want. $300-$2000, your call.
 
I owned an Sig Cross for a couple days. Excellent design, but typical Sig shit quality. If Harbor Freight ever sells guns they will sell the Sig Cross.

Stock would collapse on recoil. Can’t remember the other issues, but I know that one was a common experience at least at the time.
 
The problem with all the guns you’ve listed is that they’re all in a zone that is both too expensive for what they are and not cheap enough to truly make them a great deal and slam the door on putting together a better one some day. They all are compromised in some way, that if you really get hooked, might have you back at the drawing board selling them for peanuts to fund building what you should have in the first place.

I’d consider instead, that for what most of those go for you can buy a Zermatt Origin ($900) that’ll take Proof prefit barrels ($500-600, that you can put on yourself in your garage/basement) and that’d be the heart of a much better rifle that’ll keep you interested for far longer than any of the others you mentioned and would leave you with stuff that would still hold most of its value if you ever wanted to get rid of it or move to something else. Yeah, you’d still need a trigger and a stock/chassis, but with a legit 700 footprint-based rig you could get whatever you wanted and it would all hold its value and be worth it to someone else if you decided to send it down the line.

Most of those rifles you mentioned won’t be worth half what you paid once you take delivery, so in my book that doesn’t make any of them a good deal, it makes them all too expensive.
 
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Tikka over Sig.
Tikka CTR in a different chassis is another option or a Bergara HMR.

Tikka CTR is the same barrel and action as the Tac, but the Tac has a two stage trigger and the chassis. The super varmint is also a good option. Heavier, threaded barrel and the two stage trigger same crappy stock as the CTR. You have some options at different price points with Tikkas.
 
Where does a used MPA or other custom fall into the equation? Not scared of used guns as most people just like to look at them, not shoot them. Anything I need to worry about buying a used Arc CDG or other premium action that isn’t blatantly obvious in a picture?

Would be willing to spend 2k for the right setup. See a lot of custom barreled actions for less than that on the exchange on this site.
 
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Where does a used MPA or other custom fall into the equation? Not scared of used guns as most people just like to look at them, not shoot them. Anything I need to worry about buying a used Arc CDG or other premium action that isn’t blatantly obvious in a picture?

Would be willing to spend 2k for the right setup. See a lot of custom barreled actions for less than that on the exchange on this site.

Used is the way (except for maybe barrels).

With most solid custom actions there’s almost nothing one can do to mess them up, so I’d think you could pick one up second-hand and be just fine.

The MPA production rifles start out priced really good even when brand new, so if you can score a decent used one that’d be a good look as far as getting the most bang for your buck.
 
I'm a builder. I'm running a Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5 as my NRL Hunter rifle. I threw on an MDT Oryx chassis, a can, pulled an Athlon Cronus off another gun (and put on a new Ares EBR or whatever - not as good as Cronus, but not bad and much cheaper), a Harris bipod (hey, they're brilliant - lightweight, stiff as freaking hell, and cheap). It's a decent gun.

But.... if I could do it all over again, I would have bought that $650 Tikka light / superlight / whatever that had the right bolt size, an aftermarket barrel (Tikka takes prefits) and that same MDT Oryx Chassis (and a $12 spring kit for the Tikka trigger) and I would have been happier.

Now, my Bergara is the most basic of the base rifles and the action is "meh". Sure it works most of the time, but it tends to bind if I'm excited and not cycling it perfectly. Occasionally I have to shove a finger in the action and reset a bullet when I get a failure to feed and find the bullet moved forward, just not enough. Accuracy is fine (sub-MOA in a 10 shot group with my crappy rifle skills).

Right now I'm using Sofia (my Bergara - get it, Sofia Vergara the actress[?] - ok, shut up, that is what my wife named it because she loves the actress) as my NRL Hunter and PRS rig. It has to be sub-16lbs for NRL hunter, so when I'm shooting PRS I slap on a couple of weights as I can. That being said, if I stick with PRS after this season (no, I'm not a registered PRS member, I'm still checking it out), I'm going to build a dedicated PRS rifle with a spare Tikka action I have.

Is Tikka the best? Absofreakinglutely not. But as a "budget" (or as my work husband says, "value") shopper, Tikka gets me accuracy and reliability and I don't really give a shit about the rest of the fancy features. If you want to throw some lipstick on it, get somone to flute the bolt for $50 and call it custom.

Cheers!
 
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Tikka over Sig.
Tikka CTR in a different chassis is another option or a Bergara HMR.

Tikka CTR is the same barrel and action as the Tac, but the Tac has a two stage trigger and the chassis. The super varmint is also a good option. Heavier, threaded barrel and the two stage trigger same crappy stock as the CTR. You have some options at different price points with Tikkas.
“ Same crappy stock as the CTR .” ? If that’s in reference to the Super Varmint, I’m unaware that both the SV and CTR now come with the Roughtech stock (?). I know the SV comes with the Roughtech. I’m no expert when it comes to rifle stock comparisons, but the Roughtech certainly seems substantial to me.
 
“ Same crappy stock as the CTR .” ? If that’s in reference to the Super Varmint, I’m unaware that both the SV and CTR now come with the Roughtech stock (?). I know the SV comes with the Roughtech. I’m no expert when it comes to rifle stock comparisons, but the Roughtech certainly seems substantial to me.
If the Roughtech works for you then that's totally fine. We have to go with what works for us.
 
Absolutely. I was just surprised that the CTR has the same stock as the Super Varmint. Didn’t know that.
CTR
1739993539296.png

Varmint = CTR+fore end (also heavier barrel unthreaded)
1739993521763.png

Super Varmint= ctr + foreened+cheek riser (also with heavier barrel thats threaded and 2stage trigger)
1739993561602.png


Theres also a soft touch version of the fore end on the beretta store, not sure if its on the super vs the normal fore end
 
CTR
View attachment 8621785
Varmint = CTR+fore end (also heavier barrel unthreaded)
View attachment 8621784
Super Varmint= ctr + foreened+cheek riser (also with heavier barrel thats threaded and 2stage trigger)
View attachment 8621786

Theres also a soft touch version of the fore end on the beretta store, not sure if its on the super vs the normal fore end
Thank you sir, interesting. Wonder why no CTR in the US with adjustable comb? It’s a feature I’ve really appreciated on my SV. My other rifles have add ons and this last time I set out to find a range rifle with one already incorporated.