Rifle Scopes Loctite or no loctite on scope ring screws

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PaseMkr

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Minuteman
Dec 28, 2013
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#1
Hi all,

I am mounting a Premier Reptiles 5-25x56mm Tactical scope on a DTA SRS A1 rifle. I have a 34mm DTA single piece mount. I have read opinions both ways on the subject of Blue Loctite and I am still wondering if I need to use it if I torque the 6 screws on each of the two scope rings to 20-25 in/lbs. What is your advice?
 
#6
I agree, you MUST use Loctite on the ring screws. Just remember, that your torque rating will go much higher because the screws are lubricated with the "wet" Loctite. So that means use less torque or you could damage the scope body. Oh, and use the blue colored Loctite.
 
#9
PaseMkr said:
Hi all,

I am mounting a Premier Reptiles 5-25x56mm Tactical scope on a DTA SRS A1 rifle. I have a 34mm DTA single piece mount. I have read opinions both ways on the subject of Blue Loctite and I am still wondering if I need to use it if I torque the 6 screws on each of the two scope rings to 20-25 in/lbs. What is your advice?
Click to expand...

Yes, use locktite. It isn't going to hurt anything, it lubes the threads while you torque, preventing galling. Not that that light of torque will do it, but safe is better than sorry. A little heat loosens the screws right up. Making sure you have a good fitting driver in the heads prevents slippage. It's a very minor but effective piece of insurance that the screws won't work loose.
 
#15
Loctite or no loctite on scope ring screws

If you need Locktite, or need heat to loosen ring cap screws, you're doing it wrong.

If you can't bring yourself to assemble them dry, then it should not matter if you use bolt grease or oil instead of Locktite to prevent galling.
 
#17
K_4c said:
May I ask what's wrong with using locktite? The small amount I use has no ill affects. This is a subjective topic, there is no right or wrong.... just ones opinion.
Click to expand...

There's nothing wrong with it. It's just not necessary. A *small* drop of oil *on the engaged threads only* and enough torque to keep things from moving (roughly defined as "as much as you can without breaking something") will do. Everything else should be dry.
 
#18
damoncali said:
There's nothing wrong with it. It's just not necessary. A *small* drop of oil *on the engaged threads only* and enough torque to keep things from moving (roughly defined as "as much as you can without breaking something") will do. Everything else should be dry.
Click to expand...

I can agree with your statement as its open ended. It's a subjective topic that "may" offer peace of mind... it doesn't hamper any operation, nor does it have any ill affects IF properly done... I can also say I've never had any issues not using loctite... 6 out the dozen in my book, pick your poison.
 
#21
squiggy said:
If Loctite lubricates the screws and you need to changes where you need to torque your screws. What should you torque them at?
Click to expand...

Lubricated torque should be very, very roughly half of dry, clean torque. But it's really hard to say. Torque wrenches are not nearly as good as people think they are. They measure torque very well, but they measure bolt preload (clamping force) very poorly, and preload is what you actually care about. A better indicator for scope rings is to measure the gap between the ring halves with feeler gages, which should be the same on each side. But that is incredibly anal.

Just toque 'em 'til they don't move and keep the mating surfaces of the scope and rings clean and dry.
 
#22
I also have rings with 6 screws and still use blue loctite on all my rings. As noted just a small dab is enough. I torque my rings to 20" lbs. By the way the last blue loctite that I bought came in a red bottle.
 
#23
If you must use something, try vibra tite vc3. I like it better than loctite. I stopped using any type of threadlockers on scope rings a while back and never had an issue. One of the mount manufacturers that I have specifically says NOT to use any type of loctite and that the warranty will be void if you do. Little odd but doesnt matter since I dont use it regardless.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 
#24
Bach said:
One of the mount manufacturers that I have specifically says NOT to use any type of loctite and that the warranty will be void if you do. Little odd but doesnt matter since I dont use it regardless.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

They're probably tired of people mucking up their mounts because they used red loctite or some other form of overkill. If I were a manufacturer, I'd encourage light torques and no thread-locker.
 
#25
If u need more clamping power, add another ring or use wider rings. Adding torque and thread locker kills scopes. It collapses the tube and throws everything out of whack. Then people complain the image is not clear.
 
#26
The whole point of using a thread locker is so you can use minimal torques. 15-18 in lbs. is 1.25-1.5 ft. lbs. That is not very much. In fact it is very little. Thus using thread locker to prevent them backing out. and of course, light torques don't crush the aluminum tubes we all use. I keep it handy as most times I'm installing rings I'm also installing a base. If you think base screws don't loosen up, maybe you could give me your technical background on how to properly find drag torque, what sequence torque to use and if you need to use step torque, or just get it all in one fell swoop. As for what a bolt/screw holds for preload there is no way to measure that unless you have instrumentation on an individual item you are torquing. And yes, I've done that many times but never in such a light application. For this application it's done in a laboratory and the information is then accompanied with each product that uses it. Suffice it to say you do not need to find preload as that has already been found and the applicable torque information with the chosen screws should be with your rings or bases.

FWIW, yes common sense should be applied here. You never need a ton of thread locker. But using the soft thread locker, blue or purple, you could goop it on there and it ain't gonna make a hill of beans difference. It'll clean right off with some knuckle grease. It will look bad, but it isn't holding anything. The only part of it holding anything is what is on the threads. So, that's all you need.

Should I get my shovel? So we can make even more of a mountain out of this molehill?
 
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#28
I suspect that uneven tightening of screws is the main culprit in them loosening. Screws tend to come loose when there is side to side motion, which would be exacerbated by the screw being crooked in the threads (which happens if you tighten one side of the ring down more than the other). Just a theory.
 
#30
jmb03 said:
Clear nail polish applied as above has always worked for me.
Click to expand...
That's all my Pap ever used. Pap was a Union Machinist for the Railroad and a self taught Gunsmith on the side. Pap always used clear nail polish on rings.
Wish my Pap was still alive .... I have so many questions I never thought to ask him.
 
#32
Id say blue if you need it but in 3 years I have not used it on my guns yet , my glasses yes and its been working great just not on my gun . Blue you can still remove the items without heating its just a little harder to break that seal gl with yours .
 
#36
NevadaZielmeister said:
I agree, you MUST use Loctite on the ring screws. Just remember, that your torque rating will go much higher because the screws are lubricated with the "wet" Loctite. So that means use less torque or you could damage the scope body. Oh, and use the blue colored Loctite.
Click to expand...
Which blue Loctite? There are about 6 or 8 different formulations that are blue. Typically I believe most people mean # 242 or # 243 as they are a medium hold when cured. But identifying it generically by color could get someone into a situation where you may not be able to break the hold as you picked a blue formulation that is for larger screws.
For anyone interested the Henkel group has a table that lists all the commercially available formulations that lists the recommended screw size and holding power forces formulation. I have posted that table here on more than one occasion. It’s a good table to have handy. I’d post it again but I can’t find it on my phone at the moment.
 
#37
MojoNixon said:
Which blue Loctite? There are about 6 or 8 different formulations that are blue. Typically I believe most people mean # 242 or # 243 as they are a medium hold when cured. But identifying it generically by color could get someone into a situation where you may not be able to break the hold as you picked a blue formulation that is for larger screws.
For anyone interested the Henkel group has a table that lists all the commercially available formulations that lists the recommended screw size and holding power forces formulation. I have posted that table here on more than one occasion. It’s a good table to have handy. I’d post it again but I can’t find it on my phone at the moment.
Click to expand...
I use 243 exclusively.
 
#41
Two resurrections! This thread will not die!

Anyway, here's my optics mounting screws...wondering why they've never come loose...

R (2).jpg
 
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