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Buy a covert rail from DT. They offer them....
Frank
Yea , but Looking to trade if possible ? If not I will go that route .
Anyone running an angled fore grip for shooting offhand? I'd like opinions on weather the back half of the rail channel could be dremeled off to slide it back closer to the balance point of the rifle like the pic below. Personally I'd like to get it back even further.
I have a Mapgul AFG on mine, but I never thought of using a riser to clear the skin. I'll try that tonight.
Does anyone see an advantage running 338 Lapua longer than the factory 26"
I have a ton of Retumbo and 300 scenars/Lapua brass
I do not care about portability or weight, because I run a 22.5" SAC from Mark for mountain hunting out to 1000 or so and it has worked great as a compromise @ just under 2600 fps muzzle.
Looking to do some 1 mile plus steel for fun, so would a 28-30" be helpful?
Any input greatly appreciated before I spend the coin
DTA - 1, Stag - 0.
Never thought I would say my DTA was light to carry, but after butchering this guy, taking the head mount and hide I didn't even notice carrying the DTA.
Where were the entry and exit wounds, just out of curiosity?
Looking to do some 1 mile plus steel for fun, so would a 28-30" be helpful?
The SRS is definitely easier to support, as expected. I can now solidly tuck my left elbow into my chest and hold the gun level.Looks awesome but how does the AFG feel in comparison to where you had it mounted before? Also what rail extension did you use? Man I love the all black SRS! Thanks!
so with that 8'' more barrel it gives accurate 600meters more?The 26" barrel is good to a mile easy with 250s or 300s. Personally I've been taking mine further than a mile but it's a struggle, so I've got a 34" barrel in the works with an improved shoulder with the hopes of getting 300s up to 3100fps for shooting to about 2400m.
The 26" barrel is good to a mile easy with 250s or 300s. Personally I've been taking mine further than a mile but it's a struggle, so I've got a 34" barrel in the works with an improved shoulder with the hopes of getting 300s up to 3100fps for shooting to about 2400m.
The SRS is definitely easier to support, as expected. I can now solidly tuck my left elbow into my chest and hold the gun level.
I used this extension: Amazon.com : TufForce MT-1R7E13L 1/2" High Extension Riser Mount for your dot sight and scope : Sporting Optic Mounts : Sports & Outdoors
so with that 8'' more barrel it gives accurate 600meters more?
I have my fun.Good lord Orkan! With the amount of money you have in all of the hard goods there you might be able to help ol uncle Obama eat something better than the turd salad he has been serving us. Then again on second hand.....
It is good to be you.
Thanks for the answer!
I've been running an S&B 5-25x56 with a prototype of the original 40MOA rings (hey, does that make it a collector's item?) and would think it should be fine for that Steiner.
Eh, I don't think there should be any play in the bolt head on the Gen2 bolts. Double-check that he pin is seated all the way and flush on the side. Obviously the Gen 1 bolts don't have this issue, but of the Gen 2 bolts I have, all are quite solid, even when worn and disassembled from time to time.
Time for a little dta customer service rant! End of April I shot a local match and with the rain I had a damp 260 case and blew my first ever primer. The rest of the day the brass were not ejecting so I had to dig them out by hand when I got home a took the bolt completely apart and cleaned and put it back together and they barely ejected so I sent an email knowing I would not hear back until the next week. Would you believe the at 8:30am est I had a reply asking if I wanted to ship bolt or them mail the parts. Well I was confident I could put the new goodies on since I had it apart and back together already. I got an email the following Friday saying they had shipped and received them today. Put them in and the brass are flying out as they should!! Time to let the sounds of freedom be heard again here on the ridge.
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have a that steiner on my a1 and started with the dta hti 40 moa mount and my mechanical zero was out to 600 to 700 meters, so if thats what your looking for. i changed it to 30 moa and it dam near zeroed it self on the screws at 300 meters.
Does your guys bolt head jiggle? I have maybe an eigth of an inch play between the bolt head and bolt. Is this a floating bolt design? Just curious
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Question #2: Can the .26 Nosler use the current magnum bolt in the SRS?
All the gen2 bolt heads have slight clearances but this does not natter as the DT HS off the bolt face. As DT stated my Gen1 don't as they are part of the bolt but both of my Gen2's have slight movement but present no issues after thousands of rds. If you feel you have excessive clearances DT is just a ph call away and they will get you squared away.Does your guys bolt head jiggle? I have maybe an eigth of an inch play between the bolt head and bolt. Is this a floating bolt design? Just curious
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all good mr. burns !! ) didn't even come off sarcastic, wel then i'll be the first to shout when im wrong, cause ive only been shooting longer distances for a short time. but on my scope elev knob was bottomed out right from the box, and didn't slip the scales for zero stop as if i zerod it with 0 moa base and then set zero stop. like so on my other scopes, may be i should pull the stupid card out on myself, for doing it wrong. but thats what ive delt with........... i love the scope so much im looking for another. but if you have some info, id love to here it. no judging here!! bro im all ears(Serious question not sarcastic) Why would it matter if your mechanical zero is at 600 or 300? You would be able to zero at 100 with both correct? From what I have read "they say" that scopes operate at their best both mechanically and optically at mechanical zero. Is this your reason?
Thanks for the reply.
Just be aware that there are two different types of forends for A1 rifles. One uses a key on top of the rail to line things up between the receiver and the forend and prevent the forend from rotating. The latest style does not have a key on top of the rail or Chassis.
all good mr. burns !! ) didn't even come off sarcastic, wel then i'll be the first to shout when im wrong, cause ive only been shooting longer distances for a short time. but on my scope elev knob was bottomed out right from the box, and didn't slip the scales for zero stop as if i zerod it with 0 moa base and then set zero stop. like so on my other scopes, may be i should pull the stupid card out on myself, for doing it wrong. but thats what ive delt with........... i love the scope so much im looking for another. but if you have some info, id love to here it. no judging here!! bro im all ears