Rifle Scopes recommend a scope mount pic rail for a Tikka T3X Superlite?

Not at all what you asked, but have you considered the Talley one piece rings? The are super light weight and hold up well.

Assuming since you bought a Superlite Tikka you are looking to save some weight. Only issue is there is no cant, but shouldn't be an issue in most cases.

If you aren't looking for a weight saving, see above posts for rail options.
 
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My MT rail is great quality. The only maybe negative I can say is that while I like the idea of the recoil pin and it's one of the main reasons I picked it specifically, it's just an aluminum protrusion on my aluminum rail, and with the flathead screws in the holes it's not like you can really affect how it sits front-to-back, i.e. to "preload" it forward against the receiver hole... it's just going to line up where the screws force it to. So I don't honestly know that it's really accomplishing much/anything- it's not a tight fit to the hole, and I'd think the shearing force would be measured in thousandths or less...

I can say I switched from a flat rail after zeroing, and cranked my PST down 20MOA before I went shooting the next time. IIRC it was within 1/2MOA of being correct, I remember being impressed how accurate they got the cant.
 
Not at all what you asked, but have you considered the Talley one piece rings? The are super light weight and hold up well.

Assuming since you bought a Superlite Tikka you are looking to save some weight. Only issue is there is no cant, but shouldn't be an issue in most cases.

If you aren't looking for a weight saving, see above posts for rail options.

Solid advise if you're trying to save weight. I use DNZ one piece on all my Tikka hunting rifles with zero complaints.
 
My MT rail is great quality. The only maybe negative I can say is that while I like the idea of the recoil pin and it's one of the main reasons I picked it specifically, it's just an aluminum protrusion on my aluminum rail, and with the flathead screws in the holes it's not like you can really affect how it sits front-to-back, i.e. to "preload" it forward against the receiver hole... it's just going to line up where the screws force it to. So I don't honestly know that it's really accomplishing much/anything- it's not a tight fit to the hole, and I'd think the shearing force would be measured in thousandths or less...

I can say I switched from a flat rail after zeroing, and cranked my PST down 20MOA before I went shooting the next time. IIRC it was within 1/2MOA of being correct, I remember being impressed how accurate they got the cant.

For some reason they don't include install instructions or torque specs. If you call them they will give you both, they have a very specific method for installation to load it.
 
For some reason they don't include install instructions or torque specs. If you call them they will give you both, they have a very specific method for installation to load it.

Interesting. Maybe I need to email them.

My simple brain tells me tapered-head screw going into matching taper-bored hole is going to center itself wherever they work out to, unless there's one that's drilled to draw it forward against the pin, amd the rest have some fore-aft slotting to them to allow some play. But I know enough to know I don't know everything, so maybe I'm not grasping some other way.

I'll also say it's shot well enough (especially considering I've only shot it with the factory Lite barrel so far) that I'm in no way saying it doesn't work, or it's shifting. Twas just an observation, not really a criticism.
 
Interesting. Maybe I need to email them.

My simple brain tells me tapered-head screw going into matching taper-bored hole is going to center itself wherever they work out to, unless there's one that's drilled to draw it forward against the pin, amd the rest have some fore-aft slotting to them to allow some play. But I know enough to know I don't know everything, so maybe I'm not grasping some other way.

I'll also say it's shot well enough (especially considering I've only shot it with the factory Lite barrel so far) that I'm in no way saying it doesn't work, or it's shifting. Twas just an observation, not really a criticism.
Thier install process may make no difference, but it is very odd they have one and don't send it along or tell anyone.
 
just acquired a Tikka T3X Superlight, all stainless. I like using one-piece scope mounts, so I'm looking for recommendations for a pic rail, 20moa. Anyone have any recommendations? THANKS!!
EGW. Just did my T3x 7mm RemMag and it's perfect. George and his team at EGW make excellent products. I've used them for 1911 parts for years and when I got my Tikka then found out they made rails for said Tikka: done deal.

I've fired 150-200 rounds since mounting and it's solid.
 
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EGW. Just did my T3x 7mm RemMag and it's perfect. George and his team at EGW make excellent products. I've used them for 1911 parts for years and when I got my Tikka then found out they made rails for said Tikka: done deal.

I've fired 150-200 rounds since mounting and it's solid.

I just put an EGW on my Tikka 595 Master Sporter and I have zero complaints.
 
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DAMN! That's a damn nice piece of gear!!
Agreed, here is why I think it is a better way to mount a scope on a Tikka when comparing some of the mounts mentioned above.

The first Mountain Tactical base I used fit awesome, the recoil lug was a snug fit to the point that the base needed to be tapped into place. After that one I handled several that was a sloppy fit into the pocket on top of the receiver. Some may think "big deal, push it forward while you tighten down the screws". The problem with that is the heads of the screws self center in beveled portion of the holes. After torqueing, the base has now been effectively shifted to align with the centers of the screw holes in the receiver. Most likely this has resulted in the recoil lug contacting NOTHING. So now all shearing forces from recoil are absorbed by nothing but the screws.

I built my daughter kind of a budget rig on a tikka that doubles as a hunting rifle for her to see if she was interested in shooting. I didn't like what I saw above so I decided to bed the entire base and recoil lug to solve this. Some might think this is overkill, but I'm usually not the guy at the range or a match with unexplained zero shift and/or consistency issues. So just a little lock-tite on the screws wasn't going to give me a warm and fuzzy.

What I like about this particular Spuhr mount is that you can slide it all the forward to get recoil lug engagement then torque it to the dovetail. This is how AI was doing all their stuff before they started putting picatinny on everything. There is much more material engaged at the dovetail to resist forces from all angles as well. The base and rings being contained in one piece eliminates several other points of failure as well. And the cost is no higher than buying one of the bases mentioned above coupled with a set of nice rings.
 
I just went through this myself, and decided on the Area 419 rail. It is extremely well made, low profile, and includes a recoil lug. The Spuhr was in consideration, but I wanted picatinny compatibility across all of my rifles. Badger alloys and a SWFA 6x make this .243 nasty out to 500yds. Leagues above the Leupold 3-9/Talley setup I pulled off of it.
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You might consider one of these.
I went with the Spuhr mount. The biggest issue to me with one piece mounts (I have 4) is the amount of fore-aft adjustability (or lack of). I saw that the recoil lug on the Spuhr has multiple locations, so it looks like fore/aft adjustability will not be an issue. Ill post something once I get the scope mounted and zerod. Thanks guys for all the input. Appreciate it!!
 
Out of interest why did you buy a Superlite if you were wanting rings/mounts like the Spuhr?

Why pay the extra for a lighter weight model?
 
Out of interest why did you buy a Superlite if you were wanting rings/mounts like the Spuhr?

Why pay the extra for a lighter weight model?
Good Question. I have 3 other rifles that I carry in the field, they all are great rifles, but are around 10# including optics and ammo. I didn't start out to build an ultra lite rifle, There is only a couple ounces difference between the Tikka Lite and the Ultra lite. I wanted a Tikka, in stainless, and this one was available LEFT handed. There isn't that much difference in weight between a pic rail + good rings and mounts and the Spuhr mount which, in my opinion after checking out other options, would be a little more robust. Overall weight of the rifle will be a couple pounds lighter than what I currently have, so that is significant. And as far as price, I got a great deal, no extra for the ultra lite, just the usual mark up for a lefty.