That's what I did, but will attempt a tiled print, if such is possible...
Success, as follows:
Clicked image, right clicked "copy Image", opened working folder, pasted to folder.
(BTW, I have double monitors set up on my system, which makes this sort of thing much simpler)
File arrives as jpg, bring up "
https://www.ilovepdf.com/jpg_to_pdf", dragged jpg file into add jpg page, performed conversion as per instructions. (Be sure to choose proper Portrait/Landscape mode.)
Opened pdf, clicked "save as" using same filename with pdf extension.
Opened pdf, clicked print icon, chose tiled output, typed in 150% magnification, printed file.
Image came out as four panes, trim and tape together on cut lines as a single pane.
Image is larger, reading is easier, but starting to get into the fuzzy stage of 150% magnification, larger magnification can be chosen; may work, may not (too fuzzy). This file was a poor copy to begin with, better copies can be enlarged much bigger.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I do this all the time with model aircraft plan files, which are usually line drawings and can be enlarged quite big.
I look up the original full size aircraft on wiki, and get the wing span measurement in feet, then divide that in 1/2.
I then print out my plan and measure the plan wingspan.
I have a simple conversion factor that allows me to print out my plans in a specified scale for my plans, so all the model airplanes come out (in my case) to 1:24, or 1/2" = 1'.
For 1:12 scale, I don't divide the full scale wingspan by 2, and get 1" = 1'. This can be computed to do other scales, but that gets too complex for me.
I divide the plan wing span in inches by the full scale plane's wingspan in feet, this gives me the magnification percentage (which can be less than 100%, so this method can be used for size reduction, too). I then bring up the given plan file, choose print, then tiled, entering the derived percentage for magnification. Print, trim, tape, and I have my exact scale plans. Tape them together really good, they get stretched tight on the building board.
I roll my plans for storage, with a trick. I roll them with the image outboard. Then, when I unroll them and put them down on the building board they (mostly) lay flat. Do it the other way (facing inward), and you spread them out, let go, and they roll right back up on ya. Frustrating...
Greg
PS, another interior picture of the real case, with the top layer of rifles removed, would be the cherry on top.
My GI 30 Caliber Rifle Match Load is 168 bullet (generic, I use Speer .308/168 Gold Dot Rifle) Winchester Brass, prepped, Winchester Large Rifle Primer - better cup for GI ignition systems (or so I've been told), and 46.5 gr of IMR-4064. This is an older load and I've been using it since the mid-1990's. Very accurate, and respectful of the M1 operating system. For 308, the only change is 43.5gr of IMR-4064 in IMI brass, prepped.
ETA: I revisited my load data records and the 168 load is either 48.1gr IMR-4064 or 48.5gr IMR-4064. Either will work, but high pressure indicators on your fired brass may mean the lower is the better of the two in your rifle.