Hey everyone! Tried finding a solid answer and I can’t seem to looking around. If it’s on here and I missed it, I’m sorry. Also if this is in the wrong spot to ask, I’m also sorry (I’m new here). So I bought a few Accuracy International AT rifles with a folding stock in 6.5 Creedmoor. Love them by the way, but sadly this is the second one I’m having issues with. Today when I brought my newest one out, I went to loosen the cheek riser screw on the one side, and the whole screw and threaded insert just fell right out. Being I already sent one back with a defect and is currently there, I don’t want to send this back. Is it difficult to install a new rear chassis to the folding adapter? I’d rather install a new chassis piece myself if they are willing to send it. Here’s what I’m working with. Again, If this is already out there, I’m sorry. I just can’t locate it. Help lol
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Installing Accuracy International AT Folding Rear Chassis
- Thread starter jasonlgs94
- Start date
How tight are you torquing those screws on?
I've adjusted my cheekpiece endlessly (primarily because I don't know what I'm doing), but have never had an issue with that insert.
Edit: the answer to your question:
www.snipershide.com
Your call if you want an AT folding stock or upgrade to the AX stock.
I've adjusted my cheekpiece endlessly (primarily because I don't know what I'm doing), but have never had an issue with that insert.
Edit: the answer to your question:
AI AT fixed to AX folder. Conversion Instructions and pictures
So I was bored and sitting at home looking at my fixed chassis AT and then the AX stock conversions online and decided to pull some things apart and document it TLDR: It bolts right on. So I ordered an AX stock up. I knew these stocks were marketed as "for folding AT only" originally (I read...
www.snipershide.com
Your call if you want an AT folding stock or upgrade to the AX stock.
Honestly I didn’t tighten it. I actually loosened it and it fell right out. I didn’t even get to tighten it. The other side worked no problem. I don’t know what that was about, but went to loosen for adjustment like I’ve done on my other ones, and boom. I had that.How tight are you torquing those screws on?
I've adjusted my cheekpiece endlessly (primarily because I don't know what I'm doing), but have never had an issue with that insert.
Edit: the answer to your question:
AI AT fixed to AX folder. Conversion Instructions and pictures
So I was bored and sitting at home looking at my fixed chassis AT and then the AX stock conversions online and decided to pull some things apart and document it TLDR: It bolts right on. So I ordered an AX stock up. I knew these stocks were marketed as "for folding AT only" originally (I read...
Your call if you want an AT folding stock or upgrade to the AX stock.
Edit: I was more so curious if replacing the existing AT rear chassis was hard since it’s already a folding stock. I don’t imagine that hinge pin being brutal, but I don’t know. I’ve never come across this issue lol. Thanks for the reply btw!
It's not the easily thing in the world to do because the AI stock assemblies are epoxied in but it's doable. That being said that issue with the screw is pretty easy to fix with basic tools without having to replace the whole stock assembly.
Dang, even the hinge pins are epoxied too? What kind of fix can I do? So far this has me interested!
To me it looks like a helicoil came out with the bolt, you might be able to clean up the threads in the stock assembly with a tap and install a new helicoil. Alternatively, there are self locking threaded inserts that you could use that could also work. The bubba-est of solutions that could also work is one that I've had to use on a project when my minions managed to drill holes off center in aluminum angle. In that case I plugged the holes with steel putty so they could be drilled and tapped again.
Now that I’m staring at it (wanted a closer look again), it looks exactly like a helicoil. That looks to be exactly like what’s wrapped around the screw. I’ll have to monkey around with something. Just kinda sucks since I JUST bought it. Oh well. I also just sent an email to AI just to see what they say about it.
Milehighshooting.com is an official AI service center. Try them tomorrow.
I have done the stock conversion from AT folder to AX folder. Its not difficult. See the link above.
If you fix it yourself use a time cert thread repair not a helicoil.
I have done the stock conversion from AT folder to AX folder. Its not difficult. See the link above.
If you fix it yourself use a time cert thread repair not a helicoil.
Man, OP @jasonlgs94 ... are you lucky you got serious answers from good folks in the Bear Pit!!!
Next time... look at the sections and this belongs in Bolt Action Rifles or Gunsmithing or Accessories.
The Bear Pit looks at this as fresh meat. And a nice project and a legit inquiry... don't deserve a normal BP response!
@MarinePMI might want to move this one. ;-)
Cheers and welcome, OP. You'll get the hang of this place.
Sirhr
Next time... look at the sections and this belongs in Bolt Action Rifles or Gunsmithing or Accessories.
The Bear Pit looks at this as fresh meat. And a nice project and a legit inquiry... don't deserve a normal BP response!
@MarinePMI might want to move this one. ;-)
Cheers and welcome, OP. You'll get the hang of this place.
Sirhr
It's a helicoil. There's no sense in trying to replace the entire $300+ buttstock assembly instead of a $1 helicoil.
Like others have said, you can try to simply put in a new helicoil with Loctite, upsize the helicoil and re-tap if possible, or fill the hole with epoxy and re-tap it.
I believe those are standard M5x.8 screws.
Like others have said, you can try to simply put in a new helicoil with Loctite, upsize the helicoil and re-tap if possible, or fill the hole with epoxy and re-tap it.
I believe those are standard M5x.8 screws.
Exactly, it's an easy and inexpensive repair.
Also, if the threads on the chassis are now boogered up from the helicoil coming out and require the hole be drilled and tapped larger, rather than replacing the helicoil with a twinsert to get back down to the original bolt size I'd recommend replacing it with a timesert or keensert instead. A keensert would be a little cheaper than a timesert as you don't need to buy the timesert installation and swaging tool, after drilling and tapping with an STI tap you can simply tap in the locking keys of the keensert carefully with a flat faced punch and small hammer.
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