If it has a cocking piece that is held to fp with a crosspim, like a rem700, I've saw that crosspin break/drift out and drag on bolt shroud. It caused random light strikes and took awhile to diagnose. The trigger drag is harder to diagnose and one reason I prefer bix.
I like carbon for a hunting barrel, but if it's gonna bang steel and maybe hunt every 2 yrs.....I'm gonna get a med palma steel barrel and save 400-500.00 on every barrel.
A 1000+ rds this year? FYI, 6.5prc is pretty much same case capacity as a 6.5-284. Those used in f class generally get set back at 800rds and then replaced at 1200ish rds. At least you won't have to deal with the barrel much over a yr, lol.
I'll keep it in mind, but I've shot that load in blowing dust storms, rain and freezing rain. It's been nothing but we'll mannered. If I was getting loose primers at 3 or 4 firings, ok, but it's just been plugging along. Also as far as predictable, it's been used on nuisance permit deers at...
Not to derail, but have 1800rds on that barrel and this brass is on 12 firing. I switched over to 140eldm to kind of standardize as other 6.5 guns use that bullet. The group at 550 was shot within the last 2 months.
Op a couple of those groups don't look horrible, and as another said, try...
I've got a 26" med palma bart 6.5creed that it's money load is 140eldm@2885. It's warm for sure, but no pressure signs in lapua brass in a badger action. It shot ok at slower speeds but really woke up when I got into higher node.
Might move up in charge, unless you were seeing pressure. Here's my 20" proof with h4350 and lapua brass
With rl16 on my old ae mk2:
With 140eldm@550, 4rds:
I find a super light trigger is counter productive to shooting tiny groups off a bipod. On a Farley front with 15lb rear bumblebee bag, 2-4oz triggers are nice. Using a bipod and rear bag/beanbag, a single stage sub12oz trigger gives me some issues.
Arc mounts are different than conventional rings, hence the "unusually high" torque. I've got several proof barrels, steel and carbon, and they all shoot. I've got a steel proof on an ai in 6.5creed that is wicked accurate with 140 and 147 eldm. Try some handloads with the eldm .025 off...
Abrasive compounds, stiff bore brush, and a drill were used to fuck up that barrel. Bronze brushes will not hurt a bore. Used correct size brushes for bore size, no abrasive cleaners, hand run cleaning rods and don't change directions of brush inside bore. Following these simple rules, there...
My experience is with 1 carbon barrel, a proof 6creed. I bought it used(100rds) and worked up a load with 107smk@2990fps(22"). It has stayed extremely consistent with as much as 100rds on dirty barrel. But this is just 1 example.
About the only thing you'll see with mag primers is worse sd/especially, in 6 5prc. I've used cci br2 and 200 in 4 different 6.5prc barrels and 1 7prc. I've never had althea problems you are having. How long has the ammo been loaded? I've saw bullet weld to brass that caused all kinds of...
Maybe not apples to apples, but I tested some carbon removers awhile back on carboned up brakes. Kg1 cleaned the most in a set time frame, compared to some others, boretech being one of them.
Depending on rate of fire, contour, and barrel steel quality....it's entirely possible. It's burning 58+gr every shot, it ain't a 29.xgr 6br, lol. Op, are you letting next rd to be fired sit in a hot chamber very long(10+ sec)?
That is a upper end load in my barrel, [email protected]. Not max pressure, but close to book max, and I didn't have more than 1-1.5gr until I got heavier bolt lift. Can't speak to ops load, but it isn't super mild.