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“Fixing” new Lee Collet Die?

SlowMiss6.5

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 4, 2024
123
33
South West
After jumping further down the rabbit hole of reloading, I’m going to copy the YouTube DIY induction annealer and then go with a Redding body die and a Lee collet die in hopes of produces consistent ammo every time.

But with the new (+-2019 and on) Lee collet dies, they don’t size the case mouth (Lee says for seating lead bullets).

Would a good plan be: to first run the brass into the collet die, then pull it back down out of the die, put a washer over the piece of brass and run it back up into the collet die? In theory this would copy the old Lee collet die (but just take two steps) and would size the entire neck.

Or have people just been using the new collet dies and leaving the end of the cash mouth flared?
 
I used to size my 308 with body die then lee collet. Later I just use a quality FL bushing die with SAC neck bushing. The result is great. The case neck runoff is no more than 0.003. It just another option for you with less brass prep time.
 
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Slotted washer, slip between shell holder and bottom of collet.
You only have to back out a little to put the washer in.

Thanks! Just to confirm, you completely run the brass into the collet die, then pull the brass down out of the die just enough to slip the washer on over the shell holder and then run the brass back up into the die correct?

And what size washer? I could only find one post from a different forum that said around .050”
 
1/16" would work.
Die is about .020 to 0.025" Short.
I don't have to do this as I have two old style .223 dies.
One I modified for 22 Nosler, one for .223 or as a spare.
Get a couple undersized mandrels (Midway) so you can use the standard one, the undersized one, or an undersize you polished down a little more.

Many hit the case , back off a little, rotate case and hit again.
With the washer, Hit it, back off a little, rotate, insert washer, hit again.
 
I used to use a body die then a lee neck die but I switched to full length die and a mandrel die. It has produced better ammo for me. I use Forster dies that are custom honed then a 21st century mandrel die. More consistent neck tension with less runout than the lee and Redding body die. The custom honed Forster dies work awesome and don’t over work the neck
 
I used to use a body die then a lee neck die but I switched to full length die and a mandrel die. It has produced better ammo for me. I use Forster dies that are custom honed then a 21st century mandrel die. More consistent neck tension with less runout than the lee and Redding body die. The custom honed Forster dies work awesome and don’t over work the neck

That was my original plan but after seeing how much batches of premium brass fluctuates in neck thickness, and the fact I’d like to load different head stamp (keep them separate but some times shoot Hornady brass) I figured the Lee collet die is my best bet. Also, because the collet die really relies on low bounce back of the neck, I got stuff to do a DIY induction an annealing process. Plan to anneal each time. I’m just looking for +-25fps ES and I’ll be happy
 
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That was my original plan but after seeing how much batches of premium brass fluctuates in neck thickness, and the fact I’d like to load different head stamp (keep them separate but some times shoot Hornady brass) I figured the Lee collet die is my best bet. Also, because the collet die really relies on low bounce back of the neck, I got stuff to do a DIY induction an annealing process. Plan to anneal each time. I’m just looking for +-25fps ES and I’ll be happy
Neck thickness variation is exactly why a mandrel die is the way to go. It sizes the inside of the neck
 
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Neck thickness variation is exactly why a mandrel die is the way to go. It sizes the inside of the neck

Correct, and so does the Lee collet die. In extreme conditions, a custom jonesed forester could lead to down little neck tension if the brass neck thickness is much less than what it was honed for. But that’s an extreme example