I have a 10/22 that is producing a flyer on almost every group at 50 yards. The flyer might be as much as 2 inches from the other shots or I might have 2 flyers in the same hole and three more in another hole. The rifle started out as stock but I have replaced most of the parts. The receiver and bolt are stock. I have added a Kid 16.5 inch fluted barrel, Kid cocking assembly with light spring for subsonic ammo, Kid 2 stage trigger, Kid bolt Buffer and a Revolution anschutz thumbhole stock. The rifle has not been bedded but the barrel channel has been sanded to free float the barrel. The barrel was leveled with the receiver and the barrel clamp was tightened to Kidd's recommendation of 10 inch pounds. I have spent some money on this setup and want to finish this project soon. Something is just not right. What are the possible problems I could have?
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10/22 Flyers
- Thread starter Nosler243Shooter
- Start date
Re: 10/22 Flyers
You might want to try sending your bolt off to be re-worked.
I sent mine to Que at https://sites.google.com/site/quesplace/
During the re-work Que pins the firing pin down giving a much more consistant firing pin strike to the rim. An incosistant ignition is just one of the causes of a flier. The other big cause is with the barrel, but you seem to have that one covered unless somehow the crown got damaged.
You might want to try sending your bolt off to be re-worked.
I sent mine to Que at https://sites.google.com/site/quesplace/
During the re-work Que pins the firing pin down giving a much more consistant firing pin strike to the rim. An incosistant ignition is just one of the causes of a flier. The other big cause is with the barrel, but you seem to have that one covered unless somehow the crown got damaged.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
How many rounds per group? Is the flyer(s) the last shot or are they random? Bedding is cheap and easy, hate to see you spin your wheels for too long. You can also bed only the barrel and freefloat the action with a 10/22.
How many rounds per group? Is the flyer(s) the last shot or are they random? Bedding is cheap and easy, hate to see you spin your wheels for too long. You can also bed only the barrel and freefloat the action with a 10/22.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
On a Semi Auto with a Floating Bolt the headspace is set per the depth of the recess in the bolt face for the cartridge case head to sit in as measured agaist the breech face of the bolt. On most of the Ruger 10/22 Bolts I have measured this recess is generally from .002" to .009" too deep.
With this recess being too deep the cartridge case head may or may not be seated against the recess for each shot. Getting this headspace set right also helpes with more consistant ignition.
Que did a Ruger MKII Bolt for me in regards to setting the headspace and it totally eliminated fliers.
Larry
On a Semi Auto with a Floating Bolt the headspace is set per the depth of the recess in the bolt face for the cartridge case head to sit in as measured agaist the breech face of the bolt. On most of the Ruger 10/22 Bolts I have measured this recess is generally from .002" to .009" too deep.
With this recess being too deep the cartridge case head may or may not be seated against the recess for each shot. Getting this headspace set right also helpes with more consistant ignition.
Que did a Ruger MKII Bolt for me in regards to setting the headspace and it totally eliminated fliers.
Larry
Re: 10/22 Flyers
I would say that you would need to have your bolt reworked or changed out. Head spaced, radioused, and pin the firing pin. QUE mentioned above will do that in his bolt rework. Also, the Kidd bolt and Randy at CPC will have the same.
I would say that you would need to have your bolt reworked or changed out. Head spaced, radioused, and pin the firing pin. QUE mentioned above will do that in his bolt rework. Also, the Kidd bolt and Randy at CPC will have the same.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
I am using Wolf match target and SK standard plus. The groups are all 5 shots. It sometimes will do it on the first shot but I may have stopped this because I was easing the bolt forward when I loaded my first round in the chamber. It more often takes place around the third shot. Yesterday I had one drop about 2 inches from the rest of the group. I have been looking at getting one the the Kidd bolts. Would a Kidd bolt be better than getting the factory one reworked or not? Also, when I put my new trigger and bolt buffer in yesterday I noticed that when you rack the bolt it is much harder the first time. If you rack the bolt again it becomes easy. It didn't do this till I put these two new things in so any suggestions of what is going on?
I am using Wolf match target and SK standard plus. The groups are all 5 shots. It sometimes will do it on the first shot but I may have stopped this because I was easing the bolt forward when I loaded my first round in the chamber. It more often takes place around the third shot. Yesterday I had one drop about 2 inches from the rest of the group. I have been looking at getting one the the Kidd bolts. Would a Kidd bolt be better than getting the factory one reworked or not? Also, when I put my new trigger and bolt buffer in yesterday I noticed that when you rack the bolt it is much harder the first time. If you rack the bolt again it becomes easy. It didn't do this till I put these two new things in so any suggestions of what is going on?
Re: 10/22 Flyers
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 243Varminter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also, when I put my new trigger and bolt buffer in yesterday I noticed that when you rack the bolt it is much harder the first time. If you rack the bolt again it becomes easy. It didn't do this till I put these two new things in so any suggestions of what is going on? </div></div>
That is because the first time you rack the bolt the hammer is not cocked so you need to cock the hammer as well with the first rack but not the second or third rack if you did not fire. You may have noticed this more with a new trigger upgrade (meaning new trigger group or new trigger with sear and hammer upgrade) because the new trigger upgrade contains a heavier hammer spring? Just my thoughts on the subject.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 243Varminter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also, when I put my new trigger and bolt buffer in yesterday I noticed that when you rack the bolt it is much harder the first time. If you rack the bolt again it becomes easy. It didn't do this till I put these two new things in so any suggestions of what is going on? </div></div>
That is because the first time you rack the bolt the hammer is not cocked so you need to cock the hammer as well with the first rack but not the second or third rack if you did not fire. You may have noticed this more with a new trigger upgrade (meaning new trigger group or new trigger with sear and hammer upgrade) because the new trigger upgrade contains a heavier hammer spring? Just my thoughts on the subject.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
I had the same problem, even after changing the bolt to a Kidd, I fixed it by bedding the stock and adding a rubber piece under the front edge of the stock. I originally floated the whole barrel but that also gave me some flyers, although small I still wasn't happy. Once I put the rubber support under the edge of the front of the stock to support the barrel it shot 1 hole all day long, zero flyers unless I changed ammo brands. Give it a shot before you change the bolt, you should see a difference.
I had the same problem, even after changing the bolt to a Kidd, I fixed it by bedding the stock and adding a rubber piece under the front edge of the stock. I originally floated the whole barrel but that also gave me some flyers, although small I still wasn't happy. Once I put the rubber support under the edge of the front of the stock to support the barrel it shot 1 hole all day long, zero flyers unless I changed ammo brands. Give it a shot before you change the bolt, you should see a difference.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
Been re reading this post and I still think that the bolt problem needs to be addressed. BUT, if the rifle is throwing flyers on or near the 3rd shot..I think I would change out the mag as well. The bolt rides on the mag and spring tension could have taken a set on the mag...This doesn't account for the flyers,still a bolt /firing pin prob. but when the flyers are happening, or a combination of the 2.Pressure on bolt inconsistant causing firing pin to come out of slot. There is a tutorial some where on 10/22 mag maintenance, spring winding, ect. I just buy a new one..lol Since you allready have mostly Kidd stuff, I would go with the Kidd bolt,just me..comes with new pin and extractor that fits the slot in your barrel. just me. Que and CPC both do great work though. Check out the threaded pins for the trigger group on the Kidd site. And bed it. Your almost there...another gallon of turd polish and.....lol... I love em.
Been re reading this post and I still think that the bolt problem needs to be addressed. BUT, if the rifle is throwing flyers on or near the 3rd shot..I think I would change out the mag as well. The bolt rides on the mag and spring tension could have taken a set on the mag...This doesn't account for the flyers,still a bolt /firing pin prob. but when the flyers are happening, or a combination of the 2.Pressure on bolt inconsistant causing firing pin to come out of slot. There is a tutorial some where on 10/22 mag maintenance, spring winding, ect. I just buy a new one..lol Since you allready have mostly Kidd stuff, I would go with the Kidd bolt,just me..comes with new pin and extractor that fits the slot in your barrel. just me. Que and CPC both do great work though. Check out the threaded pins for the trigger group on the Kidd site. And bed it. Your almost there...another gallon of turd polish and.....lol... I love em.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: thickstrings</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Been re reading this post and I still think that the bolt problem needs to be addressed. BUT, if the rifle is throwing flyers on or near the 3rd shot..I think I would change out the mag as well. The bolt rides on the mag and spring tension could have taken a set on the mag...This doesn't account for the flyers,still a bolt /firing pin prob. but when the flyers are happening, or a combination of the 2.Pressure on bolt inconsistant causing firing pin to come out of slot. There is a tutorial some where on 10/22 mag maintenance, spring winding, ect. I just buy a new one..lol Since you allready have mostly Kidd stuff, I would go with the Kidd bolt,just me..comes with new pin and extractor that fits the slot in your barrel. just me. Que and CPC both do great work though. Check out the threaded pins for the trigger group on the Kidd site. And bed it. Your almost there...another gallon of turd polish and.....lol... I love em. </div></div>
10/22 Magazines are easy to maintenance. I have 4 or 5, had one that wasn't feeding dependably. Since it wasn't working, I figured I had nothing to lose, so one day I got the appropriate Allen Wrench; took it apart, cleaned it, and had it back together in 15 min--on the first try. Works great now. Now I can take one apart, clean it, and back together in 5 min. It's quite easy, didn't even have to watch a video to get it the first time. You can also tighten the spring without totally taking it apart. If I can do it--ANYBODY can do it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: thickstrings</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Been re reading this post and I still think that the bolt problem needs to be addressed. BUT, if the rifle is throwing flyers on or near the 3rd shot..I think I would change out the mag as well. The bolt rides on the mag and spring tension could have taken a set on the mag...This doesn't account for the flyers,still a bolt /firing pin prob. but when the flyers are happening, or a combination of the 2.Pressure on bolt inconsistant causing firing pin to come out of slot. There is a tutorial some where on 10/22 mag maintenance, spring winding, ect. I just buy a new one..lol Since you allready have mostly Kidd stuff, I would go with the Kidd bolt,just me..comes with new pin and extractor that fits the slot in your barrel. just me. Que and CPC both do great work though. Check out the threaded pins for the trigger group on the Kidd site. And bed it. Your almost there...another gallon of turd polish and.....lol... I love em. </div></div>
10/22 Magazines are easy to maintenance. I have 4 or 5, had one that wasn't feeding dependably. Since it wasn't working, I figured I had nothing to lose, so one day I got the appropriate Allen Wrench; took it apart, cleaned it, and had it back together in 15 min--on the first try. Works great now. Now I can take one apart, clean it, and back together in 5 min. It's quite easy, didn't even have to watch a video to get it the first time. You can also tighten the spring without totally taking it apart. If I can do it--ANYBODY can do it.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
I put a 10/22 together for the purpose of shooting a local benchrest match. Kidd barrel, two stage trigger, bolt, cocking assembly, Tacticool stock (bedded), the whole nine yards. I can even get it to shoot the provervial one hole groups, but when I start shooting transitions (from one target to the next in a series of 75 individual targets), it all goes to crap.
I emailed Kidd for some words of wisdom. I was told that bedding the stock was a good idea. Free floating the barrel is the best way to go. They were also pretty specific about the magazines. I was told to try a bunch of magazines to find one or two that were consistent. I was told that I should find two out of every ten that I try, as far as odds go.
I put a 10/22 together for the purpose of shooting a local benchrest match. Kidd barrel, two stage trigger, bolt, cocking assembly, Tacticool stock (bedded), the whole nine yards. I can even get it to shoot the provervial one hole groups, but when I start shooting transitions (from one target to the next in a series of 75 individual targets), it all goes to crap.
I emailed Kidd for some words of wisdom. I was told that bedding the stock was a good idea. Free floating the barrel is the best way to go. They were also pretty specific about the magazines. I was told to try a bunch of magazines to find one or two that were consistent. I was told that I should find two out of every ten that I try, as far as odds go.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
I ordered the Kidd bolt, receiver pin kit and a new magazine. I have got too much in it to stop now. My dad said yesterday after I told him how much I had spent it would have been better to have just thrown the rifle in the river than give it to me. It was his old squirrel rifle. It has cost a lot more than I thought it was going to. If these things don't fix the problem all that I could do would be bedd the stock and get a new receiver. If I had it to do over again I would have just bought an Anschutz Model 64 and would have probably spent less.
I ordered the Kidd bolt, receiver pin kit and a new magazine. I have got too much in it to stop now. My dad said yesterday after I told him how much I had spent it would have been better to have just thrown the rifle in the river than give it to me. It was his old squirrel rifle. It has cost a lot more than I thought it was going to. If these things don't fix the problem all that I could do would be bedd the stock and get a new receiver. If I had it to do over again I would have just bought an Anschutz Model 64 and would have probably spent less.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
243, I feel for you. A friend of mine got into an Anschutz 64 MPR for right at what I have in my 10/22 and his rifle shoots circles around mine, in a match environment; and he didn't have to spend a fraction of the time that I did getting his to shoot.
243, I feel for you. A friend of mine got into an Anschutz 64 MPR for right at what I have in my 10/22 and his rifle shoots circles around mine, in a match environment; and he didn't have to spend a fraction of the time that I did getting his to shoot.
Re: 10/22 Flyers
I put in the new bolt and a new magazine. I shot it today and the rifle is shooting much better. One group at 25 yards was a 5 shot one hole group. I am still having trouble at 50 yards though. I always shoot off a bipod and a rear bag. This stock does not have any studs yet and I am having to use a bench type rest that I don't care for at all. The stock is so slick it moves after every shot and I am having to muscle it around and that is not good. The Kidd 2 stage trigger has really messed me up. When I shot my CZ today I thought I had the safety on but it was that the trigger is nothing like the Kidd. I guess I'll have to get a trigger for it now too. I am thinking since I have so much in it I will get the stock bedded and I might go ahead and get a Kidd classic receiver to finish the rifle off. Will the Kidd receiver help my accuracy at all?
I put in the new bolt and a new magazine. I shot it today and the rifle is shooting much better. One group at 25 yards was a 5 shot one hole group. I am still having trouble at 50 yards though. I always shoot off a bipod and a rear bag. This stock does not have any studs yet and I am having to use a bench type rest that I don't care for at all. The stock is so slick it moves after every shot and I am having to muscle it around and that is not good. The Kidd 2 stage trigger has really messed me up. When I shot my CZ today I thought I had the safety on but it was that the trigger is nothing like the Kidd. I guess I'll have to get a trigger for it now too. I am thinking since I have so much in it I will get the stock bedded and I might go ahead and get a Kidd classic receiver to finish the rifle off. Will the Kidd receiver help my accuracy at all?
Re: 10/22 Flyers
buy a box of lapua midas. if its still throwing flyers then its likely the rifle. i have found mt/sk std+ to be inconsistent for grouping tight at 50y and out. messing with the rifle wont do anything if you are getting inconsistent lots of ammo, and my experience with the low line wolf and sk is that i get about 1 in 10 bricks that is worthy of being shot at 50+ yards. when i do get a good lot it shoots well in my cz 452 as well as my clark barrel 10/22 and my wifes kidd barrel 10/22. right now i have a lot of MT that this was the biggest 5 round group it shot the other day at 25y. i now need to test this lot at 50.
buy a box of lapua midas. if its still throwing flyers then its likely the rifle. i have found mt/sk std+ to be inconsistent for grouping tight at 50y and out. messing with the rifle wont do anything if you are getting inconsistent lots of ammo, and my experience with the low line wolf and sk is that i get about 1 in 10 bricks that is worthy of being shot at 50+ yards. when i do get a good lot it shoots well in my cz 452 as well as my clark barrel 10/22 and my wifes kidd barrel 10/22. right now i have a lot of MT that this was the biggest 5 round group it shot the other day at 25y. i now need to test this lot at 50.
