100 meters or 100 yards for zero

[SAMR]

Hello,
I'm expecting my rifle to arrive in the near future and will be ordering the new 4DOF Kestrel. I'd like to try to true my MV and BC, but the before that I'll need to zero the rifle. I was wondering, if the scope's reticle and turrets are in Mils is still advisable to zero at 100 yards or would it be better to zero for 100 meters?

An additional stupid question; with the popularity of mils as the system of measurement, why does it seem to hard to find targets with their grids laid out in centimeters vs MOA/Inches?

 

[TonyTheTiger]

1st question: doesn't matter as long as your inputs are correct.

2nd question: doesn't matter if you have enough magnification to see your bullet holes while zeroing.

 

[loveha]

MIL reticles has absolutely nothing to do with meters or centimeters.
Your scope, if equipped will .2 mil hash marks, is how you measure corrections. So if you're sighting in, and you see through the scope you are 1.6 mils left, and your adjustments are in .2 increments, then adjust 8 clicks right. Some scopes are in .1 mil increments, so then obviously that is 16 clicks.

 

[SAMR]

I thought that 1 mil at 100 meters = 100 millimeters, so a 1 centimeter square on a grid would equal .1 mils at 100 meters. So, for example, if your scope is .1 mil per click of the turret, then you are moving by the same scale. If I see I am 3 cm low, then I know I need 3 clicks of the elevation.

 

[loveha]

I thought that 1 mil at 100 meters = 100 millimeters, so a 1 centimeter square on a grid would equal .1 mils at 100 meters. So, for example, if your scope is .1 mil per click of the turret, then you are moving by the same scale. If I see I am 3 cm low, then I know I need 3 clicks of the elevation.

Yea? I guess, but who wants to think about all of that?
Your reticle tells you everything you need. Ask anybody here, they do not do that.

 

[vh20]

Question 1: Doesn't matter, and isn't related to whether the reticle is mil or MOA. However, depending on whatever ballistic calculator you're using, it would make the most sense to zero at 100 meters if you are always going to measure your target distances in meters, or 100 yards if you measure target distance in yards. In the US, most people measure target distance in yards, so a 100 yard zero is most common. Some calculators might (?) allow you to mix units between your Zero and your target distances, but many just allow you to choose one unit or the other for all calculations. Even if the calculator will handle a mismatch in Zero vs. target distance units, it is an un-necessary complication to do so.

Question 2: Well covered by the other responses. DON'T use inches or centimeters on the target. Measure with the reticle and use that number for correction. Then it will work at any distance. Putting it into inches or centimeters is thinking backwards and creating un-necessary complications.To use your scenario in post #4, you're thinking backwards. You don't need ANY grid whatsoever. Put your crosshair on your aim point and measure with the reticle where your impact is. If the impact is 0.3 mils below the aim point as measured by the reticle, you know you need to come up 0.3 mils. The grid you mention would only be accurate at 100 yards/meters. The reticle (on a FFP scope at any magnification, or SFP set to the specified magnification) will be accurate at ANY distance. Grids on the target really only have any use when trying to zero a scope with a reticle that doesn't allow you to measure with it (like a plain Duplex reticle on a hunting scope).

 

[Racer88]

To use your scenario in post #4, you're thinking backwards. You don't need ANY grid whatsoever. Put your crosshair on your aim point and measure with the reticle where your impact is. If the impact is 0.3 mils below the aim point as measured by the reticle, you know you need to come up 0.3 mils. The grid you mention would only be accurate at 100 yards/meters. The reticle (on a FFP scope at any magnification, or SFP set to the specified magnification) will be accurate at ANY distance. Grids on the target really only have any use when trying to zero a scope with a reticle that doesn't allow you to measure with it (like a plain Duplex reticle on a hunting scope).

Bingo!

The only real use for a grid is as a reference when using a group size calculator app like OnTarget, Range Buddy, or Ballistic X.

Another thing.... what if your range isn't actually 100 yards?? I initially assumed my local range (county sheriff's range), which was labeled "100 yards" was actually 100 yards. Then I measured it with a tape. NOPE! It was 96.28 yards.

Whether your scope is MOA or MIL, it doesn't matter if you zero at XXX yards, meters, or cubits. Use your reticle and make your POI corrections in angular units and you can't go wrong. No math needed.

 

[Snuby642]

You can do a field conversion in your head if it helps . Add 10% to meters for yards.
100 meters= 100 yards+10% or 110 yards
1.094 is the value but the missing 0.006 is fairly negligible for most people to hold anyway.

No calculator needed.