Re: 10MM Reloading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KHOOKS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When I say middle of the road. I mean in the middle of the min./max. load out of my Hornady reloading manual. No chrony so I don't know the Mv. </div></div>
You can load them up until 1 of 2 (or both things) happen.
1) The recoil becomes very sharp and the brass starts flying about 20-30 feet or more instead of the normal 5foot ejection distance. This means that the slide is bottoming on the recoil spring, which imparts very large impact loads into the slide stops and the frame. This is why the 10mm batters pistols to death if you're not loading for it properly.
2) You get a severely smiled brass from the unsupported Glock chamber. This is also referred to as a "glock smile" or a "belly", it looks like a semi-circular bulge that runs about 30% of the way around the case from the feed ramp.
The cure for these two things are
1) Back down the loads
2) Put a heavier recoil spring in the pistol.
I opted for Cure #2 and I get the 200XTP's around 1250fps and the 155's are almost 1500 fps.
Clearly you need to work up to these levels, but you don't need a chronograph to do it.
You need to load some ladder tests up in 0.1gr increments, 3 rounds at a time for a particular bullet.
If you have Blue Dot from anything more than about 2001 it's slower than what you buy now. If you have old load data (which it sounds like) from a manual before then you need to be careful.
The older Alliant Data that I have from the early 1990's says that 9.5gr-10.8gr is the BD range in the 10mm with 200gr jacketed bullets.
I started at 9.5 and by 10.0 I was bottoming out. I backed it down to 9.8gr to be safe in the stock pistol.
Bottom line is that the new Blue Dot seems to be faster compared to what was acceptable 10-15 years ago.
