I recently picked up a Springfield 1911 GI model. I want to upgrade it a little over time and am wanting opinions on parts that give me the most bang for my buck. Thanks in advance.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Sidearms & Scatterguns 1911 budget build
- Thread starter Savagemarksman
- Start date
Replace the parts on the rear of the gun. Start with the beaver tail and main spring housing. They are fairly easy to replace and fairly inexpensive. There are plent of videos on line to walk you through it. Than move on to the small parts. Trigger and the internals
For shoot-ability, installing a beavertail grip safety is one of the first things I would do. This usually involves some blending to the frame.
If the trigger is rough, you would want to try and smooth it out, or drop in a Cylinder and Slide kit. If you think you would change the Hammer/Sear, you'll want to do that before installing the Grip Safety.
The Sights are a good thing to replace on a stock Govt model. However, this starts to run into some money because you'll have to get the slide milled for the sights.
You may want to smooth out the magazine release if it's sticky.
If the trigger is rough, you would want to try and smooth it out, or drop in a Cylinder and Slide kit. If you think you would change the Hammer/Sear, you'll want to do that before installing the Grip Safety.
The Sights are a good thing to replace on a stock Govt model. However, this starts to run into some money because you'll have to get the slide milled for the sights.
You may want to smooth out the magazine release if it's sticky.
What do you want to do with the gun? Carry? Range toy, etc.
Is it a "Mil-Spec" or a "GI", if it's a GI, IIRC they are assembled in Brazil, not just the frames, and many of the small parts are of lower quality.
I would start with a high quality properly fitted and tuned extractor and forged slide stop.
I would look at having teh plunger tube staked(some ar ejust glued in)
Same with the grip screw bushings.
If it has the tiny USGI type sights, you'll need to look at replacing them. There are still some stake on tyep front sights out there, and some pretty good dovetail fit rear sights. OF all the money I spent on 1911's, milling for rear sights is probably the thing I would not do again. Plenty of take of dot types(I have handfull) or other "NM" & "retro" type sights. Check Brownells, or look around for some old school KIng, Wilson and MMC's, the 10-8 one is nice also.
I wouild probably just replace the fire control components, rather then do a trigger job. See what your smith says..if you wanna DIY look at the kits from Nowlin and Cylinder and Slide.
Grip selection is endless
If you go to a fitted beavertail you will need to address the hammer.
IIRC the Wilson Drop in was pretty nice and required only fitting the arm to the trigger bow.
Find a trigger length that you like, flat or curved..
I think it's better to do everything that interacts with the trigger at one time. Trigger, sear, disconnector,hammer, grip safety and thumb safety.
Springfield supposedly had some issues with the two piece barrel, but I'm not entirely sure about it. A fitted bushing is nice, or an entire barrel and bushing.
All depends on what you want to do and how much you wanna spend.
For reliability and durability, I'd look at the extractor and slide stop.
Bob
Is it a "Mil-Spec" or a "GI", if it's a GI, IIRC they are assembled in Brazil, not just the frames, and many of the small parts are of lower quality.
I would start with a high quality properly fitted and tuned extractor and forged slide stop.
I would look at having teh plunger tube staked(some ar ejust glued in)
Same with the grip screw bushings.
If it has the tiny USGI type sights, you'll need to look at replacing them. There are still some stake on tyep front sights out there, and some pretty good dovetail fit rear sights. OF all the money I spent on 1911's, milling for rear sights is probably the thing I would not do again. Plenty of take of dot types(I have handfull) or other "NM" & "retro" type sights. Check Brownells, or look around for some old school KIng, Wilson and MMC's, the 10-8 one is nice also.
I wouild probably just replace the fire control components, rather then do a trigger job. See what your smith says..if you wanna DIY look at the kits from Nowlin and Cylinder and Slide.
Grip selection is endless
If you go to a fitted beavertail you will need to address the hammer.
IIRC the Wilson Drop in was pretty nice and required only fitting the arm to the trigger bow.
Find a trigger length that you like, flat or curved..
I think it's better to do everything that interacts with the trigger at one time. Trigger, sear, disconnector,hammer, grip safety and thumb safety.
Springfield supposedly had some issues with the two piece barrel, but I'm not entirely sure about it. A fitted bushing is nice, or an entire barrel and bushing.
All depends on what you want to do and how much you wanna spend.
For reliability and durability, I'd look at the extractor and slide stop.
Bob
I plan on carrying occasionally and for general plinking. It is the GI model made in Brazil. I'm planning on new sights and a grip to start with, also I read somewhere that Wilson combat mags are the best over stock mags for any 1911 is there any truth in this?
I would start with grips and sights.
Beaver tail
Reduced power Main spring and new housing
New trigger and sere
New thumb safety
If you don't know what you are doing, have a competent gunsmith install them. It's not as simple as watching a YouTube video and it needs to be done right. Especially if you want to carry it.
Beaver tail
Reduced power Main spring and new housing
New trigger and sere
New thumb safety
If you don't know what you are doing, have a competent gunsmith install them. It's not as simple as watching a YouTube video and it needs to be done right. Especially if you want to carry it.
IMO, if you plan on carrying it, there is a lot of to address.
As noted sights, grips, BT, etc are all nice to have.
But reliability is paramount, and you'll need to run a quanity of your chosen carry round thru the gun. You will also need to address common failure points, like a low quality untuned extractor, & slide stop.
Not sure of the small parts quality of the "GI" model,(IIRC, not very high) but I had an early SA back in '88/'89 that didn't hold a trigger job, and went full auto on me. Look into high quality fire control parts
The mag well would need to be beveled, and the ejection port lowered. A conservative carry bevel is nice, and may alleviate the need for a beavertail.
Wilson's are very good mags, but what mag will run in what gun is a crap shoot...and they need to be tuned to the slide stop or vice-versa. CMC power mags, Tripp cobra's and a combo of both are also very good mags.
This is the beauty and the bane of the 1911....you can tune and customize it to any level....how much do you wanna spend?
Take a look over at 10-8Performance and read some articles by Hilton Yam regarding the 1911 for duty use and carry.
Bob
As noted sights, grips, BT, etc are all nice to have.
But reliability is paramount, and you'll need to run a quanity of your chosen carry round thru the gun. You will also need to address common failure points, like a low quality untuned extractor, & slide stop.
Not sure of the small parts quality of the "GI" model,(IIRC, not very high) but I had an early SA back in '88/'89 that didn't hold a trigger job, and went full auto on me. Look into high quality fire control parts
The mag well would need to be beveled, and the ejection port lowered. A conservative carry bevel is nice, and may alleviate the need for a beavertail.
Wilson's are very good mags, but what mag will run in what gun is a crap shoot...and they need to be tuned to the slide stop or vice-versa. CMC power mags, Tripp cobra's and a combo of both are also very good mags.
This is the beauty and the bane of the 1911....you can tune and customize it to any level....how much do you wanna spend?
Take a look over at 10-8Performance and read some articles by Hilton Yam regarding the 1911 for duty use and carry.
Bob
Last edited:
