i have a S&W 1911 and love it, but like a lot of 1911's after a few dozen rounds it starts to slow down and malfunction mostly its a failure to feed with mine. i was wondering what work should i do to this things to really make it a gun that can take a lot of abuse, run a lot of rounds and have it keep going?
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Gunsmithing 1911 work questions
- Thread starter 7.62_Reaper
- Start date
Lube it. I've never had a properly lubed 1911 "slow down" after a "few dozen" rounds. Typically I start to see these type of issues around the thousand round mark and even then, a little lube usually keeps it going strong. Make sure it's properly lubricated and has a new recoil spring of the proper spring weight.
Yeah, your 1911 should run for much more than a few dozen rounds. What points are you applying lubrication?
There are several possible causes and more info would be needed to properly diagnose the cause. However, production 1911's are assembled with drop-in parts, rather than fitted parts. That goes for the barrels and bushings and a fit that is jsut a bit too tight can cause malfunctions as the barrel heats up it expands and creates greater friction. This was a common problem encountered back in the early days of IPSC, etc when people took tightly fitted bullseye pistols (where you typically fire five rounds then put the gun down) and put them into rapid fire, run-and-gun type of shooting, they just locked up when they got hot. Another cause can be shooter induced, due to shoter fatigue and fialure to keep the wrist locked after a nomber of rounds have been fired.
1911's need very little lube to run properly, a little bit of a good lube like Slip 2000 EWL is all thats needed.
1911's need very little lube to run properly, a little bit of a good lube like Slip 2000 EWL is all thats needed.
i do lube it but i never have really soak it though, also everything is stock on the 1911 just as it came out of the box.
You dont need to over lube a 1911. Few drops on the rails and a very light film on the barrel/bushing and your good to go. Even on stock guns the fit can be too tight on some guns. On the assembly line they just grab parts and put them together and dont bother to do a lot of detailed fitting, so some guns are loose and some are tight, sometimes a bit too tight for sustained fire. My best guess, based on the info you have provided, is that yours is one of the tight barrel/busing fit ones and thats ggod for bullseye, but not tactical applications. A few thousandths can make the difference. If you fire till you start getting failures, then let the gun fully cool down, then do another set and it works for a bit then quits then too tight is your problem.
How many rounds do you have through it? Most 1911's of "manufacturer" quality need 500 factory rounds to "loosen up." I have had two 1911's from two different manufacturers [in 2 different calibers] which did much much better after 500 rounds of ball ammo. I do run mine a little wet as well.
get quality magazines as well. Run a couple magazines through it quickly. Wipe it down and keep on shooting.
get quality magazines as well. Run a couple magazines through it quickly. Wipe it down and keep on shooting.
There are some misconceptions about "tight" guns not running. That is totally false. I have a LBPII that was so tight when I got it that I thought it would not run. You don't have to keep them dripping wet with oil. I use a 50/50 mix of STP and FP10. Just a few drops on the rails and a little on the bushing is all you need. It stays put. Does not drip out the back. IMO you can't beat a Kimber for the price and accuracy. I have two that are just as accurate as my LB.
90% of feed issues are mag problems.
90% of feed issues are mag problems.
Some times slowing down the slide with your thumb will cause feeding issues, check your grip.
Another cause can also be a dirty chamber or chamber that has been over polished. The over polishing of chamber was thought by some gunsmiths to improve feeding but that is false, the correct feed angle is all you need. During installation if the feed ramp/chamber gets too fine of a finish the brass can form and vacuum lock onto the sides of the chamber. It requires more force to strip the round from the chamber for ejection so the slide is decelerated which causes the slide not to have enough force to properly feed the next round.
If this is happening you can rough up the chamber with some Emory clothe, that should do the trick.
Another cause can also be a dirty chamber or chamber that has been over polished. The over polishing of chamber was thought by some gunsmiths to improve feeding but that is false, the correct feed angle is all you need. During installation if the feed ramp/chamber gets too fine of a finish the brass can form and vacuum lock onto the sides of the chamber. It requires more force to strip the round from the chamber for ejection so the slide is decelerated which causes the slide not to have enough force to properly feed the next round.
If this is happening you can rough up the chamber with some Emory clothe, that should do the trick.
Simple solution it to inspect a round that failed to feed. There will be marks on the case from resistance. The 2 most common issues are extractor tension and the sharp edge on the firing pin opening. Sharp edges on the extractor will also cause a problem. I've seen a several instances where the slide was machined wrong and the wall opposing the extractor had to be relieved.
A magnifier is your friend.
A magnifier is your friend.
And stay away from polishing the feedramp. Please. I've seen more over-polished feedramps in 1911's than I care to in my shop, and if you aren't very-and I do mean very-careful you can destroy the proper geometry that is needed for proper feeding and functioning.
If it continues, send it back to S&W or take it to a competent 1911 smith so he can properly diagnose the problem and fix it. Correctly.
If it continues, send it back to S&W or take it to a competent 1911 smith so he can properly diagnose the problem and fix it. Correctly.
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