Gunsmithing 1911's??

[7.62_Reaper]

I would like to make my S&W 1911 run like my G17……..i know that a 1911 will typically never be as reliable as a Glock unless you get a Nighthawk custom or the like but i don't want to pay that kind of money……all i am looking for is when a go to the range and beat the crap out of my 1911 it would be more reliable with less malfunctions when it starts getting hot and dirty from carbon. Any little things i could do to help….i already polished the feed ramp but thats it (that helped a lot with hollow points)

thanks

 

[Direct Assault]

Glocks are reliable because the sand and gunk falls right out. 1911s are made to fit tight. Not saying a 1911 won't ever be as reliable as a glock but I hope never as loose. I like to think of it in transmissions..... A glock is a tough old manual c-4 transmission with a grind it to find it mentality where as a 1911 is a more of a 6 speed auto. Just as reliable if you take care of it. You can abuse both and probably be ok butp even glocks fail.

 

[buffybuster]

Fight the urge to tune or make everything tight. Run a stock barrel bushing, stock recoil plug, standard 4lb trigger, etc. You can make some sand cuts on the frame rails, which allows crap someplace to go, but I would do that as a last step.

 

[7.62_Reaper]

Fight the urge to tune or make everything tight. Run a stock barrel bushing, stock recoil plug, standard 4lb trigger, etc. You can make some sand cuts on the frame rails, which allows crap someplace to go, but I would do that as a last step.

what are sand cuts? and should i try to polish up the inside of the bushing?

 

[buffybuster]

what are sand cuts? and should i try to polish up the inside of the bushing?

Before you do anything, have you cleaned and lubed the pistol and shot it about 1K rounds? Everything needs to wear in and once it does, 1911's will run and run. Don't go looking for things to fix just yet.

Sand cuts are light groves milled across the frame rail, allows hard grit to migrate to. But I don't recommend it, straight away.

 

[kansas]

First off are you running hand loads or factory? If hand loads are they lead or hardball? On some of my 1911s I have to put a tight taper crimp (tighter than spec) to get lead bullets to work well. If you have more than 1000 rounds through it then try a new recoil spring. Unless you are shooting light hand loads resist going too light with the recoil spring. If it is a aluminum frame then DO NOT polish the feedramp. It's easy to polish the anodizing off of an aluminum frame and easy to lay the ramp angle over too far.

I've seen more damage done polishing 1911s than I've seen it help. Everyone wants to polish the internals on their pistol however 1911s do not normally need it to function correctly.

 

[Recreational Shooter WA]

I would like to make my S&W 1911 run like my G17……..i know that a 1911 will typically never be as reliable as a Glock unless you get a Nighthawk custom or the like but i don't want to pay that kind of money……all i am looking for is when a go to the range and beat the crap out of my 1911 it would be more reliable with less malfunctions when it starts getting hot and dirty from carbon. Any little things i could do to help….i already polished the feed ramp but thats it (that helped a lot with hollow points)

thanks

What problems are you having with your 1911 that is causing it to run differently than your Glock? Failure to feed, extract, stove piping, etc?

 

[stockdoc]

I have seen more than one s&w 1911 sent back to the factory from our shop. Seems like they have a lot of quality issues. Try running a new production Colt 1911. Very nice and very reliable out of the box.

 

[JBRC]

The 1911 used to be the Glock of today before we started making match guns out of them. Add clearance to the slide rails and make sure that the barrel is locking up on the lugs and not the link (this breaks slide stops prematurely). Overall this will decrease accuracy but increase reliability. Extended ejector and lowered ej port if it doesn't already have one. Tuning the extractor is a big deal too. Good Luck

 

[7.62_Reaper]

What problems are you having with your 1911 that is causing it to run differently than your Glock? Failure to feed, extract, stove piping, etc?

Mostly stove piping and failure to battery

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Hoser]

Mostly stove piping and failure to battery

1. Run a lighter recoil spring. Try a 15-16 lb. I am assuming it is a 45 ACP.

2. Have the extractor adjusted and/or put an AFTEC extractor in.

3. Add oil. Lots of it. Run it wet.

 

[NXS338]

7.62_reaper How old is this 1911? How many rounds have you shot through it? Do what Hoser said, every 1911 should run an aftec....period. These things are not tupperware with oversized chambers as with a Glock, they need oil on all moving parts. Are you shooting factory ammo or reloads, what is C.O.A.L? What recoil spring do you have is it factory? if this gun is not new then the recoil spring could need to be replaced. Is your thumb dragging on the slide, do you shoot with a high grip thumb on top of safety? If you provide enough details we can probably have this thing running perfect in no time.

 

[BLDTYLRY]

It's a April Fool's joke but wouldn't be cool if the would really make one?

 

[Straight Shooter]

It's easy to get a 45 to run like your G17. Dump the paper weight and get a G21. Problems solved. It took me near 25 years to accept Glock as a real firearm. I still like to play with metal auto's but when I need a gun that will run in rough conditions with minimal care, I reach for a Glock.

I haven't found NightHawk or Ed Brown to be reliable at all when it comes to dust and sand. The slide to frame fit is way too tight. Loose is better when it comes to dirt.

 

[W8-2112]

7.62_Reaper, First off I have to say that it is unfortunate that you have been plagued by a factory pistol and over the years the quality produced by factorys is diminishing. Time after time I get a customer with a new 1911 and there are mechanical issues that I need to workout. It is very disapointing primarily because these issues could be avoided with attention to detail by the manufacture. I have multiple 1911's that will out run and out perform any glock on the market hands down which is the same confidence you should have in your hand gun. For you to repair the problem on your own I would consider the follow; Buy a recoil spring kit with differant pounds to find out what works best for your loads, check the tension on your extractor (to heavy or light will cause issues) and check the breach face that it is wide enough to allow your particular cartridge to feed properly. As for the failure to go into battery that could be the result of multiple issues non of which should be taken lightly. Seeing how it is a factory build my guess is that the barrel was not fit properly, the following are common problems associated; barrel bounce, incorrect barrel link, excessive contact on radial locking lugs, inproperly fit barrel hood, inproper height of bottom barrel pad (frame and barrel contact), excessive contact in barrel lug channel in frame, and inproperly slope of feed ramp. Remember these are only a few possible causes for your problems and it is difficult to troubleshoot/diagnose without the pistol in hand and with the information provide. If you require more information let me know I would be glad to assist you the best that I can.