22 dasher to…..
- Thread starter bodhisafa
- Start date
Was the chambering job messed up when cutting the 22 Dasher, or are you just wanting to change?
What type of target shooting will you be doing?
I haven't looked at reamer prints to verify the case body is wide enough to clean up where the dashers shoulder is, but the following options come to mind:
22 GT
22x47 Lapua
22-250 AI
22 Creedmoor
The body of the new cartridge needs to be 0.460" or greater at the 1.2" mark from the case head.
What type of target shooting will you be doing?
I haven't looked at reamer prints to verify the case body is wide enough to clean up where the dashers shoulder is, but the following options come to mind:
22 GT
22x47 Lapua
22-250 AI
22 Creedmoor
The body of the new cartridge needs to be 0.460" or greater at the 1.2" mark from the case head.
The gt or the creed. Although I'm not sure you can find factory gt or creed brass in 22 Cal so you may have to neck down again.
In that case, 22-250 ai maybe?
Try to find brass for any of those 3, and whichever one has more availability, roll with that one.
In that case, 22-250 ai maybe?
Try to find brass for any of those 3, and whichever one has more availability, roll with that one.
If you don't want to neck down or fireform... 22 Creedmoor
My fireforming loads in 22-250 AI were extremely accurate and I'd use them for barricade practice, dot drills, etc. So that option only saves the necking down. The dies are also more expensive.
My fireforming loads in 22-250 AI were extremely accurate and I'd use them for barricade practice, dot drills, etc. So that option only saves the necking down. The dies are also more expensive.
I'd cut most of the 22 dasher chamber off, after indicating the bore in.
Any runout in the old chamber will be followed by the new reamer.
Always have enough room to bore any runout out of the orginial chamber, before finish reamer is used....it could be only .0002" to .0004" TIR and .010" left to finish, but enough to clean up the small runout, as an example, to give your reamer the zero TIR start.
Depending on how much room you have with respect to the barrel contour, you could cut off the whole 22 Dasher chamber down to the neck shoulder area, and chamber for any cartridge you want.
Any runout in the old chamber will be followed by the new reamer.
Always have enough room to bore any runout out of the orginial chamber, before finish reamer is used....it could be only .0002" to .0004" TIR and .010" left to finish, but enough to clean up the small runout, as an example, to give your reamer the zero TIR start.
Depending on how much room you have with respect to the barrel contour, you could cut off the whole 22 Dasher chamber down to the neck shoulder area, and chamber for any cartridge you want.
Why are you fire forming? I run brand new and fired 6 dasher alpha ocd brass in a sac die with the correct bushing. Done deal and on to loading. I resize new brass for every caliber anyways so it’s really no extra work.
So just replace the Lapua 6 br brass with Alpha 6 dasher and be done with it.
Simple...sell or save the 6 Br brass for another project.
I shoot the 6 Dasher with Alpha brass, makes the 6 Dasher project very easy. I wouldn't even consider fireforming brass to have the Lapua name stamped in the case head. Alpha brass is that good.
I would not consider Lupua brass to be better. Alpha brass has been very good and takes pressure very well.
Besides the target loads I shoot the 110 SMK at 3085 fps and 58 gr Vmax to 4100 fps with Alpha brass and the 6 Dasher.
Simple...sell or save the 6 Br brass for another project.
I shoot the 6 Dasher with Alpha brass, makes the 6 Dasher project very easy. I wouldn't even consider fireforming brass to have the Lapua name stamped in the case head. Alpha brass is that good.
I would not consider Lupua brass to be better. Alpha brass has been very good and takes pressure very well.
Besides the target loads I shoot the 110 SMK at 3085 fps and 58 gr Vmax to 4100 fps with Alpha brass and the 6 Dasher.
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