223 loading question?

ICU22250

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  • Feb 13, 2017
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    Hey guys, so I've started some load development for my Tikka varmimt 223, finally started to run out of Prime 77 grain fodder. I am loading 77 grain sierra TMK bullets in new Lapua brass with 23.6 grains of IMR 8208 and federal GMM primers. I have gotten close to where I wanna be with an average velocity of 2813 and an SD of 8 and ES of 20. My question is, I am using a Wilson 223 mandrel for setting my case neck tension straight out the gates on the new Lapua brass. When I go to resize, should I use my FL type S bushing die then run the mandrel or should I use a standard FL sizing die and then follow with the mandrel? I have
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    .247 and .250 titanium bushings.. Thanks guys for your input..
     
    I would use the bushing die, first you need to measure the neck of a case with the bullet in place
    to see what the correct diameter bushing is required.
     
    I would use the bushing die, first you need to measure the neck of a case with the bullet in place
    to see what the correct diameter bushing is required.

    Thanks for your input, I do need to measure that but need to load some more up first... Thank you sir.
     
    i would not use an expander of any kind, there's just no reason to. , and i would use a bushing neck die and not an f/l sizer. Those f/l dies are for semi autos and when the cases wont fit in your bolt gun after being fired multiple times. Great es/sd.
     
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    i would not use an expander of any kind, there's just no reason to. , and i would use a bushing neck die and not an f/l sizer. Those f/l dies are for semi autos and when the cases wont fit in your bolt gun after being fired multiple times. Great es/sd.

    Thank you sir, I have never been a neck sizer but may consider giving it a try.. when you only neck size, do you still achieve your shoulder bump?
     
    Thank you sir, I have never been a neck sizer but may consider giving it a try.. when you only neck size, do you still achieve your shoulder bump?
    Neck sizing wont do anything other than the neck...

    And dont listen to that guy, neck sizing is for fuds.

    Pending the brass measurements (thickness x2 + bullet diameter or loaded round neck diameter) I imagine you’ll use the .247 bushing and then you can run a mandrel after that in a separate step if you want or leave the ball installed and do it in one pass. With that bushing the mandrel, or ball, won’t expand it much but it’ll be just right.
     
    Neck sizing wont do anything other than the neck...

    And dont listen to that guy, neck sizing is for fuds.

    I imagine you’ll use the .247 bushing and then you can run a mandrel after that if you want or leave the ball installed. It won’t expand it much but it’ll be just right.

    Thank you spife, I thought I would just remove the expander and decapping pin all together as I use a single stage press and universal decapper for that purpose anyway.. I kinda like the thoughts of the mandrel just for the uniformity of the inside of the case neck.. This is getting more interesting as it goes.. Thanks guys
     
    If it were a crappy rifle I’d say to just expander ball and to not waste the time but that’s a nice looking stick there and a mandrel would be a nice addition to help it shoot it’s best. It’s more time consumptive but it’s all the rage these days for a reason.
    I’ve taken my 16” 223 to 1k yards, at 500 it’s always good for a smile. Make great ammo and they can be surprisingly capable.
     
    If it were a crappy rifle I’d say to just expander ball and to not waste the time but that’s a nice looking stick there and a mandrel would be a nice addition to help it shoot it’s best. It’s more time consumptive but it’s all the rage these days for a reason.
    I’ve taken my 16” 223 to 1k yards, at 500 it’s always good for a smile. Make great ammo and they can be surprisingly capable.

    Oh hell yeah I agree, the good ole 223 is fun as hell to play with at distance!
     
    and you'll need a ball micrometer to measure wall thickness

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    as the saying goes, opinions are like assholes, everyone has one.
    try full and try neck, see what works for you.
    don't pay too much attention to people spruiking their methods, its what works for you ultimately.
    companies wouldn't give the option if there was only "one" method.
    i have the same gun and i do what works for me, i'm one of those fuds that gets very good results from neck sizing.
     
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    and you'll need a ball micrometer to measure wall thickness

    View attachment 7520166

    as the saying goes, opinions are like assholes, everyone has one.
    try full and try neck, see what works for you.
    don't pay too much attention to people spruiking their methods, its what works for you ultimately.
    companies wouldn't give the option if there was only "one" method.
    i have the same gun and i do what works for me, i'm one of those fuds that gets very good results from neck sizing.

    Thank you, I know everyone has their own method and I agree, whatever works for you and makes you smile once the trigger is pulled.. What bullet powder combo seems to work for you in your Tikka? I love Tikka rifles, seems like they all just want to shoot well... I do need a micrometer, dont have one in the stable as of now..
     
    You're shooting a bolt gun so you may get good results using benchrest loading techniques.

    Full-length sizing is required once it takes some effort to get primary extraction (lifting the bolt handle), otherwise you may find you get best precision by just neck-sizing using a neck-only S-die. Try and see how many times you can shoot a single case out of your rifle before full-length sizing. May take a little monkeying as you have a production throat and chamber vice a custom-reamed barrel.

    A .244 or .245 bushing should give you adequate neck tension. You can neck-size new brass using your bushing. Benchresters often load their ammo at the range between matches and relays using an arbor press for neck-sizing and bullet seating. Sinclair's carries that kind of (Wilson) stuff.

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    Wow aren't we all full of opinions on how to do this or that. What is so frequently recommended for one cartridge poo poo'd for the next!

    Shooting a Sako model 85 .223 with a 1 in 8 twist using the 77 Sierra Tipped MK and IMR 8208 XBR and once fired Federal '20 brass setup to be a tight fit and the after bushings a Sinclair mandral. Loading very long and single loading for long range, works for me and have gotten numerous 1st round hits to (hold your breathe or sit down) 1254 yards. Steel at Desert Sportsmans R&P LV NV. Note cartridge over all length 2.415" and MV via LabRadar 3,000 ft/secs.

    Do what works for your setup.
     
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    Wow aren't we all full of opinions on how to do this or that. What is so frequently recommended for one cartridge poo poo'd for the next!

    Shooting a Sako model 85 .223 with a 1 in 8 twist using the 77 Sierra Tipped MK and IMR 8208 XBR and once fired Federal '20 brass setup to be a tight fit and the after bushings a Sinclair mandral. Loading very long and single loading for long range, works for me and have gotten numerous 1st round hits to (hold your breathe or sit down) 1254 yards. Steel at Desert Sportsmans R&P LV NV. Note cartridge over all length 2.415" and MV via LabRadar 3,000 ft/secs.

    Do what works for your setup.

    So far I'm liking what I'm seeing with the 8208 and 77 TMK, I still haven't ran any seating depth tests yet.. just a simple change from BR4 primers to Federal GMM dropped my SD from 10.6 to 8. I think I can squeeze a little more out of her, just wish my velocity was a little better. You must be over 24 grains to be near 3,000 with the 77s?
     
    So far I'm liking what I'm seeing with the 8208 and 77 TMK, I still haven't ran any seating depth tests yet.. just a simple change from BR4 primers to Federal GMM dropped my SD from 10.6 to 8. I think I can squeeze a little more out of her, just wish my velocity was a little better. You must be over 24 grains to be near 3,000 with the 77s?


    That is a safe bet regarding the powder charge, about .010 off my lands at 2.415" overall length. I worked up literraly 1/10 grain at a time to where I am.
     
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    I use the Hornady Match Grade Bushing Dies for my Tikka Varmint. I have been using H4895, Nammo brass, CCI450 and the 75 gr ELDM. I load them to 2.49" and 3005 fps is easy. Single digit sd, very accurate, and fun to shoot. I forget what bushing I am using, .247 or .249". With virgin brass I was getting 3035 fps with the same load. My son took it to 1000 and then jumped to 1400 and got a first round hit.
    20200301_183732.jpg
     
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    I use the Hornady Match Grade Bushing Dies for my Tikka Varmint. I have been using H4895, Nammo brass, CCI450 and the 75 gr ELDM. I load them to 2.49" and 3005 fps is easy. Single digit sd, very accurate, and fun to shoot. I forget what bushing I am using, .247 or .249". With virgin brass I was getting 3035 fps with the same load. My son took it to 1000 and then jumped to 1400 and got a first round hit.View attachment 7520800

    Very nice! I'm really liking that stock.. I have some 75 ELDs on the shelf and some H4895 as well, sounds like a good combination to try..
     
    those guys telling you to f/l size are running tight chambers , its not the same when you have a factory chamber and i haven't seen an intelligent argument with empirical data to prove that additional case expansion is inconsequential... please show me data

    if the neck is sized correctly there is no need for a mandrel

    and you should get a level on your gun