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243 Ackley Technical Help

NCKan

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 3, 2012
28
0
58
Central NC
I've got a 243 Ackley built off a trued 700 action, Krieger (1 in 8) 4 groove .875 at the muzzle- 24", HS Police stock bedded over the aluminum, PTG Bottom Metal, bolt knob, Jewel Trigger and a Fox River Brake. The rifle will shoot 4 in the same hole at 100 then throw one 1/2" out or three in the same hole and one 1/2 "left and one 1/2" right. One day it may shoot three shot groups in the 1's and 2's, then I can't duplicate it.

A little background is needed. This is not my first Ackley, I have a 260 Ackley (stiller tac30 krieger) that shoots anything you put down it...fireforming loads are always less than 1/2" and usually better. Match loads will shoot as good as you can hold. The same smith built both rifles. I use a FL Redding 40 degree die and a collect to size the neck, works like a champ. Before I purchased the 243 I asked which dies were to be used and was told Redding FL bushing dies. So, I think Ok I'll use the 260 40 degree die as a body die and still use a collet on the neck for the 243 AI. This does not work, the 260 Ackley die barely touches the fired 243 brass. I take some measurements, call Redding and they don't think they have an Ackley die small enough to size the case.

The reamer was an older Clymer (maybe 10 years old) I call them to get specs...no dice, the company has changed hands. I call CH4D and speak with Dave, he tells me that PO Ackley told him( a long time ago) the 243 was based off a .455 diameter at the shoulder and he had the correct dies. Ordered these, and they work Ok but now great. I had to shave the bottom to get the 1.5k bump on my shoulder. I'm using Winchester mostly, I do have 50 Lapua brass to compare.

After fireforming both brands of brass I tried to just use a collet die on the necks and get 3/4 to 1" groups at 100. I then full length size and the groups shrink, but still not great. After several loadings the brass has the "click" on openening the bolt, so I use a small base body die to size a few test cases. Here is the crazy part, this does not touch the shoulder but the sizing process pushes the shoulder 3k forward. This in turn causes the cases to be a little stiff to chamber, exactly the same as a new non fireformed case. The first few groups shot with this process were perfect nasty little groups....1's to 3's. The next day , same process 4 in one hole then the flyer. This goes on each afternoon. I swapped stock and dropped it in my AICS 2.0, no real change. I take the rifle entirely apart, check all screws, bedding, stock, everything. I even removed a perceived high spot in the barrel channel. Same results. I checked the twist and it was right. I put a piece of tape on the back of a case and it would chamber, seems correct.
I shot this rifle at distance last week and it seemed to do well, even shot a 5" group at 900. Came back home had 75 once fired WW brass, loaded some up yesterday same results.
I'm using mostly H-1000 and 105 Hornady and Berger BTHPs. Velocities up to 3120 with single digit spreads. Best accuracy at 3050 to 3080 fps. Reloads showing 1-2k runnout max.
If anyone wants to discuss this it may be easier to PM me a phone number. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
NCKan
 
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You dont mention whether you are trimming your cases to length (I assume you are). Neck tension can cause problems but I am not all that familiar with collet dies to know if they have an expander stem. An old benchrest trick was to use a slightly smaller stem then turn the inside of the neck to size. I have found Winchester cases to be inconsistent over the years and prefer Remington BR or Federal Match brass for precision reloading. Going against Warren Page's advice I would "Lot" out my cases and bullets by weight. It's easier to do if you buy a cheap digital scale regardless of system of measurement it uses and start there. See if that helps. Another thing is all rifles copper foul and fast ones are worse. I maintain a regimen of a thorough cleaing with Sweets about every ~20 rounds. I do have Ackley's book but am away from home now or I would look to see what he says.
 
I had a #17 Krieger 8 twist .236 bore 243 AI pull pretty much the same shit on me a few years back. In my case, the barrel turned out to be a dud. Looked fine through a borescope, but just wouldn't shoot. I hope you have better luck than I did.

Running into dimensional troubles with AI dies and reamers has happened to me a few times as well.
 
dont mwan to sound like a dick but have you checked the obvious... I often see similar issues with flyers with friends rifles that have loose ring caps, ring bases, or the base mounted to the receiver... recommend you chek all of these...

been shooting 243AI for 2 barrels now and have no problem keeping 2" or better at 600 yards... i am using redding s-type neck bushing dies, annealing, neck turning...

i can tell you this, i have learned over the years that consistant neck tention and concentricity mean a lot... anneal and check your run out on the bullet. but none of this matters if you have a loose component on your rig.
 
You mention shooting 5" at 900 yards....

Leave your shit where it's at and stop shooting at short ranges. I'd happily trade spitting distance precision for shooting 1/2 Minute out to 1k. Sounds like you have a couple awesome loads and a well tuned rig...
 
JWP, I have checked the obvious:

"I take the rifle entirely apart, check all screws, bedding, stock, everything. I even removed a perceived high spot in the barrel channel. Same results"

I sent Redding some fired cases this morning and plan on shooting paper out to 700 tomorrow. I'll see if it settles down at distance. It did very well on steel last time.

It seems like a bedding issue, I may take another stock tomorrow and try swapping them again. I only shot a few groups last time I switched the stock.

I shooter is always suspect, but this happens even on the shots that break perfectly and you see the bullet hit the paper. I wish it was me, but don't think it is.

Thanks
 
You mention shooting 5" at 900 yards....

Leave your shit where it's at and stop shooting at short ranges. I'd happily trade spitting distance precision for shooting 1/2 Minute out to 1k. Sounds like you have a couple awesome loads and a well tuned rig...

agree... i did my load work up at 400 and 600 yards. 1/3 moa at 600 and often 1/2 moa at a grand, i will leave it alone... only time i ever shoot at 100 is to check zero and i am contemplating zeroing my gun at 400 or so. I often can not hold as well at 100 as further distances. mental game i think.

if you have your dies set up to bump the shoulder 1-1.5 thou and they chamber and shoot fine at distance, i dont see where the problem is.

another thing to think about is how big is the target you are holding on at 100yds? aim small miss small, we shoot at the small pasty dots that come with shoot-n-see targets. at 600 we are shooting at a dot on steel the size of a paint can lid.

one other thing that can cause flyers, most people think they know how to set paralax and are infact jacking that all up... paralax setting being off can def cause flyers.
 
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