Suppressors 300 Blackout SBR Suppressor

[jstrong]

I wanted to get some input on my upcoming purchase. I'm planning on building a an ar-15 in 300 blackout with an 8.5" Noveske barrel. 90% of the time I plan on shooting subsonic 220grain bullets, but I would like the ability to shoot supersonics too. Also, I would like a suppressor that attaches to a muzzle brake (unless someone can convince me otherwise).

Questions:

1) Which suppressors should I look at? I've read lots of forums saying the Thunder Beast 30BA is quite good, but is that overkill for a 300 blackout? I've also heard some mention that the Surefires have a good mounting system, but how is the suppression?

2) Is it okay if my rail covers a portion (or all) of the suppressor? I was thinking of putting a 10" rail system, but I might go longer.

3) (A little off topic) Do you have any good loads for subsonic 300 blackout? I've seen some with lil gun and 1680 both with 220 grain bullets, but if you've got something that has been working well, please let me know especially if you've found something with a lighter/cheaper bullet.

Thanks!

 

[dddoo7]

Thunderbeast just released a few new suppressors specifically tailored to the 300 blkout. I have not shot them, but initial reviews are good. I believe they also have a short BA model now. I have the 30P-1 that I use on my SBR and it works very well. I have a 10.5" noveske barrel and with the suppressor attached it comes in right at 18". I would like to try the shorter Thunderbeast suppressors to shorten it by a few inches, but I can't justify the extra expense and FOREVER wait.

 

[1slow01z71]

Sounds like you want basically what I built


Personally I like the longer handguard over the can so I can shoot better offhand. Short rails for the short barrels sucks IMO since your support hand is scrunched up and much harder to take longer free hand shots. A1680 works the best but I haven't tried much as 1680 works and theres no guess work. 11g of 1680 under a 208 amax with half a turn on the Lee FCD works great. 208 amaxs are cheaper than 220 SMKs and work just as well plus they work well in my 300WM so my orders serve a dual purpose.

Surefire is expensive and loud. I would not waste your money on it. Im using a yhm ti phantom right now but will have a specwar released soon. While I think the short thunderbeast cans would be a good idea I prefer the most quiet can I can get and that's the specwar. Good luck finding a short noveske barrel, in 5 months I had no luck finding an 8.2 so I went with a 9" AAC.

 

[Charger442]

my 30BA works very well on the 300 Blackout.

im hoping my TTF Ark 30, should have in hand by the end of next week, will be just as good and 1.5" shorter.

 

[1slow01z71]

my 30BA works very well on the 300 Blackout.

im hoping my TTF Ark 30, should have in hand by the end of next week, will be just as good and 1.5" shorter.

Im interested to hear your results with the ark 30. Ive been eying it but at a grand Im having trouble justifying it over going the known quality 30BA from TBAC. Really looking for a can that can handle a 6.8 SBR and possibly move over to my blackout as well depending on suppression performance.

 

[jstrong]

Sounds like you want basically what I built

That's almost exactly what I'm planning on building. Thanks for the advice and picture.

Is there any reason to go with a standard thread-on suppressor over a QD? Also, it looks like the 30BA is just a muzzle suppressor with threads on the outside. Am I correct in assuming I could attach and detach the 30BA to my brake if my rail extends past the end of the brake? Finally, does anybody know the suppression you would lose from shooting subsonic ammo out of the different Thunder Beast suppressors (30BA, 30BAS, and 30PSS)? How about supersonic?

Thanks!

 

[Zak Smith]

Hi,

Yes, you could screw a 30BA on recessed inside the float tube as long as the tube ID is large than the can OD. Just be sure to not sure the upper with the suppressor removed!

Not sure what you mean by how much suppression would be lost. The net dB levels will be quieter with super sonic .300 BLK than a full power .308, and super quiet with subs. On an AR-15 you will get most of the noise back through the action anyway.

 

[jstrong]

Not sure what you mean by how much suppression would be lost. The net dB levels will be quieter with super sonic .300 BLK than a full power .308, and super quiet with subs. On an AR-15 you will get most of the noise back through the action anyway.

Thanks for the response. I am trying to figure out how much quieter the 30BA vs. the 30BAS v. 30PSS shooting subsonic and supersonic 300 blackout. Given the noise coming from the action, does the difference, if any, really matter?

Thanks

 

[Zak Smith]

30PS/30BAS on 10" .300 BLK with supersonic ammo similar loudness to 30P-1/30BA on 20" .308, full power.

30PSS substantially louder than 30PS/30BAS with supersonic ammo, but it is good with subs. It's really intended for where the rifle/barrel length must be kept very short at the expense of suppression.

 

[1slow01z71]

30PS/30BAS on 10" .300 BLK with supersonic ammo similar loudness to 30P-1/30BA on 20" .308, full power.

30PSS substantially louder than 30PS/30BAS with supersonic ammo, but it is good with subs. It's really intended for where the rifle/barrel length must be kept very short at the expense of suppression.

Wouldn't happen to have any Db testing would you? Im kind of in the same boat as the OP. Im looking for a short can(less than 8") that can pull double duty on a 6.8 12.5" SBR and on my 300BLK 9" SBR. Neither will be shot fast, mainly used for hunting and a little plinking here and there. Ive got a specwar 7.62 for abusive duty if necessary. For me Id prefer the direct thread model as yalls brake attachment mount is pretty big for an AR but Ive read where you said it acts as a blast baffle and helps can life.

 

[Kamkaze]

Take a look at the swr specwar 762 it is the quietest 762 can I've found. It has a QD attachment as well with a 3 chamber brake. I will post some pics soon of my 8.5" with it.

 

[Zak Smith]

We do have a lot of dB data but we generally do not publish it,
https://thunderbeastarms.com/forum/threads/sound-reduction-db-testing-and-publishing-results.20/

 

[BravoSierra]

SAS reaper is a solid contender and was designed first for the .300 AAC.

 

[Cornholeo]

I have been using the SAS Arbiter on my 300BLK with a QD mount. I ran across a great deal on 175SMK pulls so that is what I am using for subs right now over 10.8gr AA1680. I will go to the 208gr AMAX or 220SMK after I run through those. I am going to put a longer rail on mine as I to feel the longer would be better for offhand. I also went from the recommended buffer to one of the JP Silent Capture Springs and have been very happy with it. Now all you hear is the action cycle along with the mouse farting. Good luck on your build, you will love it.

 

[Crazy1323]

I have a AAC SDN-6 on a Noveske 10.5" and it works great.

As fas as loads go, I have had good luck with the following:
Sierra 220gr Matchking
11.0gr Accurate 1680
2.089 COAL (Seems to feed well from PMAG)
This gives me about 1050 FPS in my gun.

 

[Hammertime]

Sounds like you want basically what I built


Personally I like the longer handguard over the can so I can shoot better offhand. Short rails for the short barrels sucks IMO since your support hand is scrunched up and much harder to take longer free hand shots. A1680 works the best but I haven't tried much as 1680 works and theres no guess work. 11g of 1680 under a 208 amax with half a turn on the Lee FCD works great. 208 amaxs are cheaper than 220 SMKs and work just as well plus they work well in my 300WM so my orders serve a dual purpose.

Surefire is expensive and loud. I would not waste your money on it. Im using a yhm ti phantom right now but will have a specwar released soon. While I think the short thunderbeast cans would be a good idea I prefer the most quiet can I can get and that's the specwar. Good luck finding a short noveske barrel, in 5 months I had no luck finding an 8.2 so I went with a 9" AAC.

That's a beautiful build. I wish I had gone that route. I went with the AAC upper, brake and SDN-6. I have no complaints and it shoots great, but I am not a fan of the hand guard that comes with it. I have been shooting Southwest Ammo's subs with great success.

 

[sawgunner2001]

Im using a yhm ti phantom right now but will have a specwar released soon.

I'm debating a 300BLK build and also will have a Specwar released (kind of soon...maybe in another 6 months). If I do an 8"-9" barrel (or so) and a rail that is of an ID large enough to accommodate the suppressor being under it, how do you "unlatch" the QD feature? Or is this the big advantage that YHM cans have with their simple "spin on, spin off" QD design?

 

[1slow01z71]

I'm debating a 300BLK build and also will have a Specwar released (kind of soon...maybe in another 6 months). If I do an 8"-9" barrel (or so) and a rail that is of an ID large enough to accommodate the suppressor being under it, how do you "unlatch" the QD feature? Or is this the big advantage that YHM cans have with their simple "spin on, spin off" QD design?

Yes the benefit of the yhm qd is that it twists on and off without any locking lever/ring mechanism. The problem with it is, you've got to pay very close attention to how it locks into place. Ive been tracing an accuracy issue when the can is on. My 308 will put 10 inside an inch but with the can on it drops down 2ish inches and to the right 2ish inches and sprays bullets in about a 3" radius. The shift isn't of much concern but the loss of accuracy is. After this last range trip I noticed the clocking of the lock ring problem, and haven't head a chance to check again. If reclocking the lock ring doesn't work Ill be sending in my can and mounts to yhm to check whats going on. On my 20" AR I get repeatable shift and it groups great(10 under an inch again) but its also a 223 bullet going through a 315ish bore. My case is an isolated incident though as many people see no change in accuracy with this can.

I bought the specwar because I want the absolute most quiet can out there for subsonic shooting hogs out from under my feeder and my in progress 6.8SPC SBR build. I plan to use either a thin screwdriver or my pocket knife to reach through the rail to manipulate the lock ring on the specwar when its used under the rail on my 300blk. It doesn't require much force to rotate so I don't expect any problems.

 

[CTown137]

I have a GemTech Quicksand. I use it on my 308bolt gun and two different 5.56 AR platforms. I am working on a 300 build as well. The advantage I have found with the GemTech is that their bilock mount locks up to the exact same spot every time and there are no levers or latches to disengage to remove the can. A simple push and quarter turn and it slides right off. Accuracy is great as my Rem700 (basically stock rifle) still holds sub moa if I do my job. The shift isn't an issue on my bolt gun as run my zero with the can. On my AR's I have less than 1 moa shift straight down.

The quicksand is a light Ti QD can (17.9oz) that works well. Just my $0.02.

 

[athhud]

I have an AAC Cyclone on my 8.5" 300blk Noveske and have zero complaints when firing 220gr. It is a 5/8-24 thread, but I've never really understood the attraction to brake mounted suppressors...


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