300 prc rifle build… Where to start?

[300prcman]

Hey all, I am looking into a 300 prc rifle build, and I have a few questions. At first I was looking into a seekins havak hit which I love the chassis on but since it doesn’t come in magnums I looked at a havak ph2 and I really like that gun but I want to put a chassis on it, Is this a good long range setup with the ph2 barreled action and a mdt lss xl chassis?

Also, if I’m going to build a rifle, what action and barrel would you recommend for long range around the 1500 - 2k mark? Looking to be around 3 - 3500 full build with an optic and chassis. Probably going to pair it with a vortex viper pst gen II as they are on sale for 200 off at my local scheels. Thanks!

 

[Ebar48]

If it were me:

Arc CDG ~1000 with action wrench
PVA 300 PRC prefit ~685
Triggertech Diamond ~300
Chassis: ACC or Matrix Pro ~1500

Total: 3485

This is without glass but IMO the flexibility of a custom action that takes prefits and has changeable bolt faces will benefit you more in the long run. I would spend the extra money now and build a better rifle.

 

[HemiPowrd]

If it were me:

Arc CDG ~1000 with action wrench
PVA 300 PRC prefit ~685
Triggertech Diamond ~300
Chassis: ACC or Matrix Pro ~1500

Total: 3485

This is without glass but IMO the flexibility of a custom action that takes prefits and has changeable bolt faces will benefit you more in the long run. I would spend the extra money now and build a better rifle.

This is good advice. I just finished building a very similar 300 PRC rifle. Very pleased with how it came out and how well it performs.

 

[Big Timber]

If it were me:

Arc CDG ~1000 with action wrench
PVA 300 PRC prefit ~685
Triggertech Diamond ~300
Chassis: ACC or Matrix Pro ~1500

Total: 3485

This is without glass but IMO the flexibility of a custom action that takes prefits and has changeable bolt faces will benefit you more in the long run. I would spend the extra money now and build a better rifle.

This is great advice.

To meet the budget you could use a KRG bravo and then you would have the funds left for your optic.

 

[HemiPowrd]

Whatever chassis you decide to use make sure it is available in a Long Action CIP 3.850.

 

[Ebar48]

This is great advice.

To meet the budget you could use a KRG bravo and then you would have the funds left for your optic.

Yea the KRG would save you about 1k, also you could do an oryx which is similar in price to the bravo. If I were you I would go to masterpiece arms website and play around with the full custom options. They use the ARC CDG action now. You could do a full rifle build from them from 3150 to 3650 depending on the chassis you choose. And then if you ever want to swap calibers you can run literally anything you want on that action after you buy a new barrel (recommend PVA but several other great prefit options) and bolt head from arc. You could run a 223, 6.5CM, 300 PRC, and 338 Lapua on the same action and rifle (granted the 223 would take some work modifying a long action mag to work, but would be doable, might just look goofy). If I were starting over and haven’t amassed many many rifles this is how I would do it

 

[300prcman]

Whatever chassis you decide to use make sure it is available in a Long Action CIP 3.850.

Ok, looking at the cdg action now, what does the bolt face measurement mean and what do I need? They range from 0.378 to 0.588

 

[Ebar48]

535 for the prc, and if you do the CDG with the complete rifle build form MPA they would handle all that

378 = 223 rem
441 = 6 arc/6.5 Grendel/6PPC/7.62x39
473 = 308/6.5cm/ 30-06 family
535 = magnums: 6mm/7mm/300PRC
588 = lapua bolt face: 338 Lapua/300NM

 

[300prcman]

Yea the KRG would save you about 1k, also you could do an oryx which is similar in price to the bravo. If I were you I would go to masterpiece arms website and play around with the full custom options. They use the ARC CDG action now. You could do a full rifle build from them from 3150 to 3650 depending on the chassis you choose. And then if you ever want to swap calibers you can run literally anything you want on that action after you buy a new barrel (recommend PVA but several other great prefit options) and bolt head from arc. You could run a 223, 6.5CM, 300 PRC, and 338 Lapua on the same action and rifle (granted the 223 would take some work modifying a long action mag to work, but would be doable, might just look goofy). If I were starting over and haven’t amassed many many rifles this is how I would do it

Ok, I really like their website and their whole system but their chassis is like half of the price of the gun it looks like a good chassis but 1500 is a little much for my budget lol do you think they would sell me just the barreled action in 300 prc? They have barreled actions for sale but they are only SA and they don’t have magnums… Maybe if I give them a call they will cook something up for me?

 

[Ebar48]

Ok, I really like their website and their whole system but their chassis is like half of the price of the gun it looks like a good chassis but 1500 is a little much for my budget lol do you think they would sell me just the barreled action in 300 prc? They have barreled actions for sale but they are only SA and they don’t have magnums… Maybe if I give them a call they will cook something up for me?

Yea give them a call and the guy you want to talk to is woody. They should be able to set you up. I know the move to the CDG is fairly new for them so if they can’t, my backup would be to buy the action, action wrench, and barrel and spin it on yourself. Would just need a barre vice and a torque wrench. Super easy to do.

 

[kthomas]

If it were me:

Arc CDG ~1000 with action wrench
PVA 300 PRC prefit ~685
Triggertech Diamond ~300
Chassis: ACC or Matrix Pro ~1500

Total: 3485

This is without glass but IMO the flexibility of a custom action that takes prefits and has changeable bolt faces will benefit you more in the long run. I would spend the extra money now and build a better rifle.

This is a pretty good rec.

There's a few different ways to spec your rifle and achieve your goals.

Another would be:

- BAT Ignitor LA action ($1200 w/base)
- Barrel of choice (~$1000)
- TT or BnA Trigger ($275)
- KRG Bravo chassis ($350)

This would be around ~$2800, though you may be able to save a few hundred on the barrel depending on what and where you get your barrel work done.

Many ways of doing this. Origin or a Kelbly action would be worth a look as well.

 

[300prcman]

This is a pretty good rec.

There's a few different ways to spec your rifle and achieve your goals.

Another would be:

- BAT Ignitor LA action ($1200 w/base)
- Barrel of choice (~$1000)
- TT or BnA Trigger ($275)
- KRG Bravo chassis ($350)

This would be around ~$2800, though you may be able to save a few hundred on the barrel depending on what and where you get your barrel work done.

Many ways of doing this. Origin or a Kelbly action would be worth a look as well.

Ok, I’m looking into a barrel right now and I found carbon six barrels, are they any good? Also it says on the options “Shank/chamber length”, what does this mean? Also what muzzle length do I want?

 

[Ebar48]

Ok, I’m looking into a barrel right now and I found carbon six barrels, are they any good? Also it says on the options “Shank/chamber length”, what does this mean? Also what muzzle length do I want?

What is your intended use because that will primarily dictate the barrel length, material, and contour. But if you are primarily building a bench gun that you will not be hiking with and you just want to shoot steel at range, then 28-30” in no lighter than MTU contour. If you want to primarily hunt and will need to carry the rifle some distance and occasionally shoot stew, then I would go carbon wrapped 26”. If you want to run suppressed I would go 24-26” so many factors. But you need to know exactly how you intend to use it to not have buyers remorse later on

 

[300prcman]

What is your intended use because that will primarily dictate the barrel length, material, and contour. But if you are primarily building a bench gun that you will not be hiking with and you just want to shoot steel at range, then 28-30” in no lighter than MTU contour. If you want to primarily hunt and will need to carry the rifle some distance and occasionally shoot stew, then I would go carbon wrapped 26”. If you want to run suppressed I would go 24-26” so many factors. But you need to know exactly how you intend to use it to not have buyers remorse later on

Ok so I plan to 11 months out of the year use this as a bench gun and shoot steel. I want to for a couple weeks out of the year carry it around a little, But I am also not a little b**** lol. Non suppressed just a brake. What do you think of M24 contours? That or a heavy Palma or an MTU.

 

[Ebar48]

M24 is marginally lighter than MTU but basically very similar. Heavy Palma is significantly lighter than the other 2 but still fairly heavy. You couldn’t go wrong with any of those. If you do want to hike with it, I would run a heavy Palma. And for length, I favor longer barrels for the extra velocity, I default to 30” but a 28 works just fine, I wouldn’t go shorter than a 26 IMO

 

[300prcman]

M24 is marginally lighter than MTU but basically very similar. Heavy Palma is significantly lighter than the other 2 but still fairly heavy. You couldn’t go wrong with any of those. If you do want to hike with it, I would run a heavy Palma. And for length, I favor longer barrels for the extra velocity, I default to 30” but a 28 works just fine, I wouldn’t go shorter than a 26 IMO

Ok, and what shank/ chamber length should I get? They have standard, 3” and custom, not sure what this means to be honest

 

[UpSideDown]

Based on the kind of questions you’re asking I really have to ask what you’re intending with a 300PRC. I’m left wondering if you talked yourself into needing a 300PRC to shoot long range, without ever having shot long range. If that’s the case I would 100% not start with this chambering. Shooting magnums sucks. Learning how to shoot on a magnum is generally a bad idea and makes things far harder than they need to be. That gun is going to have a fairly short barrel life, very expensive ammo and a lot of recoil, and will make long shooting sessions a no-go and will make it tough to spot hits.

We just got back from deer season and will be going out for elk in two weeks. Where we hunt we have legitimate 800-1,100yd shots if the weather agrees, which it frequently does. That is a rarity and not the norm. Most hunting shots are easily within 300 yards and this is a lot of gun to work with in every way. I’m not trying to go too far with my assumptions, but based on the questions you’re asking, I don’t think this is the gun for you.

I’ve taken my 20” 6.5 to 1,500 yards consistently and hunted with the same gun for years. Way, way easier gun to learn on than a magnum, and cheaper.

 

[300prcman]

Based on the kind of questions you’re asking I really have to ask what you’re intending with a 300PRC. I’m left wondering if you talked yourself into needing a 300PRC to shoot long range, without ever having shot long range. If that’s the case I would 100% not start with this chambering. Shooting magnums sucks. Learning how to shoot on a magnum is generally a bad idea and makes things far harder than they need to be. That gun is going to have a fairly short barrel life, very expensive ammo and a lot of recoil, and will make long shooting sessions a no-go and will make it tough to spot hits.

We just got back from deer season and will be going out for elk in two weeks. Where we hunt we have legitimate 800-1,100yd shots if the weather agrees, which it frequently does. That is a rarity and not the norm. Most hunting shots are easily within 300 yards and this is a lot of gun to work with in every way. I’m not trying to go too far with my assumptions, but based on the questions you’re asking, I don’t think this is the gun for you.

I’ve taken my 20” 6.5 to 1,500 yards consistently and hunted with the same gun for years. Way, way easier gun to learn on than a magnum, and cheaper.

Ok I genuinely shocked on how accurate you got me down right now… do you know me lol. But honestly yes, seeing the ballistics and overall energy / stopping power of the 300 prc I thought it was exactly what I need, I mean it’s both ballistically a performer and it’s a powerhouse 30 cal. I started my “long range” “career” on a 300 win mag that I did a little work to (Boyd’s at one stock pillar and glass bedded, m carbo trigger kit, a few other goodies and load development) and I shot it out to 650 decently. I ended up selling that gun to a friend for his girlfriend since I used a raptor brake on it which basically eliminated recoil altogether (rifle was probably 10 pounds with an optic) and since then I have zero fear of magnums and I was almost set on never buying a short action rifle again. I mean that gun kicked like a braked 556, basically zero recoil. As far as not wanting a magnum for learning long range I get it, but since I can probably still get 2-2500 rounds out of the barrel (I couldn’t see me shooting that many rounds in years and years) and recoil is basically not an issue, and ammo isn’t more than 60 bucks a box for 300 prc at my local scheels and probably half that on gunbroker. And I am making my decision based on 95 percent of it’s use. And that would be a Benchrest gun. I just did a backpack elk archery hunt this year (successful) with 80 lbs on my back and for 8 miles in, and 3 trips for quarters and the rack and camp, which already is a rarity. I’m not concerned about a heavy rifle after this year. Especially for day hunting which is 90 percent of my hunting. I am at the point where I can’t afford a range gun and a hunting gun, so I buying a range gun with a dash of hunting on the side. If I could have both I would have bought the seekins havak hit in 6.5 prc and a magnum for hunting, but I can’t. And there is no way I am using anything less than a 7mm for hunting. I know the shot placement argument but I myself own a Howa 1500 in 6.5 creedmoor and I have shot 2 deer with it. Personally horrible hunting performance. The first one was shot at 95 yards double lunged perfect shot. Ran 300 yards like it wasn’t even hit. Like it was shot in the ass with a BB gun. I later did a full autopsy and pulled out the lungs while I was quartering it even though I already saw the shot placement in the perfect place on the hide hinking “there’s no way this thing has that little umph behind it, Right?” To find a clear pass through in the center of both lungs. These were with hornady precision hunters. Hunting bullets. Made to expand though it looked like a pin went through it. Same thing with the second buck except at 200 yards and it ran another 200 before I put a follow up shot into it. Again with precision hunters. I didn’t do an autopsy but two clear lung shots tucked right into the bread basket. I then bought the 300 win mag and placed the 6.5 creedmoor in the safe. Swearing never to hunt with it again. I have shot a bull elk and a mulie buck with it, the bull fell and died instantly at 100 yards with a semi high lung shot, shocked his spine and blew his lungs out. 4 inch exit wound compared to the pinhole of the 6.5. Not even comparable. The buck was at 150 and perfectly double lunged it and it ran 15 yards and face planted. Done in a second. Right in the center of the lungs no pass through but while quartering it I found tons of jacket and a giant wound cavity behind the hide. I personally will never hunt with anything smaller than a 7mm because of this. I don’t think anything will talk me out of it after what I have experienced. I love the ballistics and price of the 6.5 and nothing else. And since recoil, barrel life and ammo cost aren’t really a concern for me, why shouldn’t I get a 300 prc? I basically grew up on magnums with my dad’s 300 wby and I have been thumped by a 3.5 inch BBB 12 gauge hunting waterfowl more than I can count. Whenever I even hint at the fact I am hunting everyone points me to the most paper thin barreled, lightest stock thing on the market that is basically unusable after 3 shots and barely groups on the 3rd and is impossible to shoot good to begin with because it’s too light to even hold somewhat solidly. I get your point but for my case I don’t see why I wouldn’t use a 300 prc, yes I am new to long range but I think I would have buyers remorse with anything smaller than a 30 cal.

 

[Ebar48]

Given that write up, here is my updated final recommendation:

MPA built custom
-ESR chassis
-300 PRC
-barrel length: 26”
-barrel contour: custom (Heavy Palma, best balance for your 90% steel 10% hunting + expressing your desire for walking long distances with lots of weight)
-TT diamond

3250. I know it’s over your budget, but this gives you the most flexibility going forward.

 

[300prcman]

Based on the kind of questions you’re asking I really have to ask what you’re intending with a 300PRC. I’m left wondering if you talked yourself into needing a 300PRC to shoot long range, without ever having shot long range. If that’s the case I would 100% not start with this chambering. Shooting magnums sucks. Learning how to shoot on a magnum is generally a bad idea and makes things far harder than they need to be. That gun is going to have a fairly short barrel life, very expensive ammo and a lot of recoil, and will make long shooting sessions a no-go and will make it tough to spot hits.

We just got back from deer season and will be going out for elk in two weeks. Where we hunt we have legitimate 800-1,100yd shots if the weather agrees, which it frequently does. That is a rarity and not the norm. Most hunting shots are easily within 300 yards and this is a lot of gun to work with in every way. I’m not trying to go too far with my assumptions, but based on the questions you’re asking, I don’t think this is the gun for you.

I’ve taken my 20” 6.5 to 1,500 yards consistently and hunted with the same gun for years. Way, way easier gun to learn on than a magnum, and cheaper.

Ok I genuinely shocked on how accurate you got me down right now… do you know me lol. But honestly yes, seeing the ballistics and overall energy / stopping power of the 300 prc I thought it was exactly what I need, I mean it’s both ballistically a performer and it’s a powerhouse 30 cal. I started my “long range” “career” on a 300 win mag that I did a little work to (Boyd’s at one stock pillar and glass bedded, m carbo trigger kit, a few other goodies and load development) and I shot it out to 650 decently. I ended up selling that gun to a friend for his girlfriend since I used a raptor brake on it which basically eliminated recoil altogether (rifle was probably 10 pounds with an optic) and since then I have zero fear of magnums and I was almost set on never buying a short action rifle again. I mean that gun kicked like a braked 556, basically zero recoil. As far as not wanting a magnum for learning long range I get it, but since I can probably still get 2-2500 rounds out of the barrel (I couldn’t see me shooting that many rounds in years and years) and recoil is basically not an issue, and ammo isn’t more than 60 bucks a box for 300 prc at my local scheels and probably half that on gunbroker. And I am making my decision based on 95 percent of it’s use. And that would be a Benchrest gun. I just did a backpack elk archery hunt this year (successful) with 80 lbs on my back and for 8 miles in, and 3 trips for quarters and the rack and camp, which already is a rarity. I’m not concerned about a heavy rifle after this year. Especially for day hunting which is 90 percent of my hunting. I am at the point where I can’t afford a range gun and a hunting gun, so I buying a range gun with a dash of hunting on the side. If I could have both I would have bought the seekins havak hit in 6.5 prc and a magnum for hunting, but I can’t. And there is no way I am using anything less than a 7mm for hunting. I know the shot placement argument but I myself own a Howa 1500 in 6.5 creedmoor and I have shot 2 deer with it. Personally horrible hunting performance. The first one was shot at 95 yards double lunged perfect shot. Ran 300 yards like it wasn’t even hit. Like it was shot in the ass with a BB gun. I later did a full autopsy and pulled out the lungs while I was quartering it even though I already saw the shot placement in the perfect place on the hide hinking “there’s no way this thing has that little umph behind it, Right?” To find a clear pass through in the center of both lungs. These were with hornady precision hunters. Hunting bullets. Made to expand though it looked like a pin went through it. Same thing with the second buck except at 200 yards and it ran another 200 before I put a follow up shot into it. Again with precision hunters. I didn’t do an autopsy but two clear lung shots tucked right into the bread basket. I then bought the 300 win mag and placed the 6.5 creedmoor in the safe. Swearing never to hunt with it again. I have shot a bull elk and a mulie buck with it, the bull fell and died instantly at 100 yards with a semi high lung shot, shocked his spine and blew his lungs out. 4 inch exit wound compared to the pinhole of the 6.5. Not even comparable. The buck was at 150 and perfectly double lunged it and it ran 15 yards and face planted. Done in a second. Right in the center of the lungs no pass through but while quartering it I found tons of jacket and a giant wound cavity behind the hide. I personally will never hunt with anything smaller than a 7mm because of this. I don’t think anything will talk me out of it after what I have experienced. I love the ballistics and price of the 6.5 and nothing else. And since recoil, barrel life and ammo cost aren’t really a concern for me, why shouldn’t I get a 300 prc? I basically grew up on magnums with my dad’s 300 wby and I have been thumped by a 3.5 inch BBB 12 gauge hunting waterfowl more than I can count. Whenever I even hint at the fact I am hunting everyone points me to the most paper thin barreled, lightest stock thing on the market that is basically unusable after 3 shots and barely groups on the 3rd and is impossible to shoot good to begin with because it’s too light to even hold somewhat solidly. I get your point but for my case I don’t see why I wouldn’t use a 300 prc, yes I am new to long range but I think I would have buyers remorse with anything smaller than a 30 cal.

Given that write up, here is my updated final recommendation:

MPA built custom
-ESR chassis
-300 PRC
-barrel length: 26”
-barrel contour: custom (Heavy Palma, best balance for your 90% steel 10% hunting + expressing your desire for walking long distances with lots of weight)
-TT diamond

3250. I know it’s over your budget, but this gives you the most flexibility going forward.

Yeah I am liking the mpa idea I think to closer meet my budget I’m going to get their assembled barreled action, with the cdg action and the 26 Heavy palma. I like that you can build the action and get the trigger with it all together. And then probably the mdt lss xl chassis. You know I like to lug around that metal lol. Who do they source their barrels from or do they machine them in house? Are they very good?

 

[Ebar48]

I know they used to use x caliber barrels on certain rifle builds, and they also had their own for other builds (I don’t know if they actually made it or if they sourced it exclusively for their use) but it should say in the description. Regardless, they are good barrels. My MPA barrel shoots as well as my PVA which shoots as we as my bartlein which shoots as well as my Brux and so on. All are fine. It would serve you well.

 

[CobraCharmer]

I actually downgraded from a .300 win mag to a 7PRC and am happy as can be. I get what I want in terms of accuracy, and terminal performance on the 180 bergers are really good. The downside is that it is a 22 lb gun and conducive for hunting.

Even with a brake, a 10lb 300 win mag will have some recoil - I hope your friend's girlfriend can tame that.

If shooting a .300 win mag successfully is where your comfort zone is, i think you should be able to handle a 300PRC as the recoil is just a smidge higher.

Ultralight stocks in this cartridge though, might not be the best approach. Recoil (rather, the anticipation of it) factors into accuracy after all.

 

[Dennis5374]

I’m currently doing the same build - 300 prc that is .

I’ll be going with a zermatt action as well as a criterion shouldered pre fit . I plan to run a brake on a 29” barrel .

The only reason I’m going with the zermatt action is I have the patience of a firefly , and can’t wait months for an action . If I spend my money I want to see the results rather quickly rather than a year down the road.

Currently I have a rem700 action and factory 300 win mag barrel , the action has been blueprinted and it’s all sitting in a mdt oryx chassis , with a vortex viper pst gen 2 ebr 4 25x optic .

I thought about sticking with the rem700 action , but I’ll probably buy a higher end chassis for the 300 and keep it in the oryx

This is how it looks atm . I do like the oryx for the money but there are better chassis out there for sure

 

[psharon78]

If it were me:

Arc CDG ~1000 with action wrench
PVA 300 PRC prefit ~685
Triggertech Diamond ~300
Chassis: ACC or Matrix Pro ~1500

Total: 3485

This is without glass but IMO the flexibility of a custom action that takes prefits and has changeable bolt faces will benefit you more in the long run. I would spend the extra money now and build a better rifle.

Only things I would change would be a McMillan A6-7 stock and a huber concepts 2 stage trigger.

Hey all, I am looking into a 300 prc rifle build, and I have a few questions. At first I was looking into a seekins havak hit which I love the chassis on but since it doesn’t come in magnums I looked at a havak ph2 and I really like that gun but I want to put a chassis on it, Is this a good long range setup with the ph2 barreled action and a mdt lss xl chassis?

Also, if I’m going to build a rifle, what action and barrel would you recommend for long range around the 1500 - 2k mark? Looking to be around 3 - 3500 full build with an optic and chassis. Probably going to pair it with a vortex viper pst gen II as they are on sale for 200 off at my local scheels. Thanks!

Have you tried out different chassis/stocks to see what you like?