Rifle Scopes 308 scope rings question (height issue)

Hey All,

my local gun shop doesnt have alot of options for scope mounting rings. I am trying to get my objective lens as close to my bbl as i can, just like everyone i guess. I need your suggestion as to the best height so i dont buy the wrong size and have to return it.

I have a 308 Rem 700 in a McCrees Precision chassis. I have a Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP with a 30mm tube. i want to get the Vortex rings also, they just have a few height choices.

thanks as usual.
 
Re: 308 scope rings question (height issue)

You don't have to have your objective lens as close to your bbl as possible "just like everyone else..."

Most folks do that because they don't have an adjustable comb, unlike you with your McRee's chassis.

Are you going to put some type of lens caps other than the bikini cover the PST comes with, because this is a measurement to be considered with your ring height.

If you're going to have caps, and are still wanting the obj lens close to the bbl, I'd go with the mediums to be safe.
 
Re: 308 scope rings question (height issue)

I am running Seekins 30mm Scope rings Medium Height- .87-Inch Height and a Vortex PST 4-16x50 on my Rem 700 SPS Tact and I don't think I can go lower.

 
Re: 308 scope rings question (height issue)

Most bolt action solid stocks put proper eye level at or above your rail if you have one. With a 50mm objective you will not get the scope low enough for a proper cheek weld.

I only get reasonably close with my rings and get a blackhawk cheek piece. You can finely adjust the cheek rest height by sticking foam or a cut up mouse pad under the rest and tightening it.
 
Re: 308 scope rings question (height issue)

I'm using Warne Maxima low with a MK4 base. It holds my Weaver 3-15 with no issues. The tactical line is a little beefier, but only comes in med and above (that I know of).


By roggom at 2012-04-06
 
Re: 308 scope rings question (height issue)

Since the actual ring height for terms like "low" and "medium" can vary significantly between manufacturers, and not all vendors list actual heights, I have decided the best approach for me is to set the scope on the rifle using clay or stacks of quarters or whatever works best and make sure I'm happy with cheek weld, objective clearance, and bolt handle clearance. I then measure the height of the spacers and order appropriate rings.
 
Re: 308 scope rings question (height issue)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VortexTikka308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...what is an adjustable comb?</div></div>
An <span style="font-style: italic">adjustable "comb"</span> is also referred to as an <span style="font-style: italic">"adjustable cheekpiece"</span>. Adjustable cheekpieces are typically height-adjustable to allow the user to raise the cheekpiece to allow proper support for the cheekpiece (thus keeping the eye in alignment with the scope). Proper eye alignment (the eye being directly behind the scope's reticle) is part of accurate shooting. Improper eye alignment can cause varying POI (Point Of impact) cause by <span style="font-style: italic">parallax</span>.

Some adjustable cheekpieces are also laterally-adjustable, providing side-to-side adjustment that "Saddle Cheekpieces don't have. This lateral adjustment can provide better eye alignment than a <span style="font-style: italic">Saddle Cheekpiece"</span>, since the width of the "Saddle" slightly offsets the shooter's face from the centerline of the scope, with parallax error a possible result. McMillan <span style="font-style: italic">"Integral"</span> and <span style="font-style: italic">"Thumbwheel"</span> cheekpieces and the KMW <span style="font-style: italic">"Loggerhead"</span> are laterally-adjustable up to about 1/4" <span style="font-style: italic">Right</span> or <span style="font-style: italic">Left</span>.

Also, <span style="font-weight: bold">it IS better to have the scope mounted as low as possible, <span style="font-style: italic">but not at the sacrifice of proper "cheek weld".</span></span> It's better to mount the scope slightly higher to get proper cheek weld than to sacrifice proper cheek weld for the sake of the lowest possible scope mounting.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Non-adjustable cheekpiece on Tac Ops X-Ray 51:</span></span>



<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">KMW "Loggerhead" adjustable cheekpiece on Tac Ops X-Ray 51:</span></span>



<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Overhead view of laterally-adjustable cheekpiece on Tac Ops X-Ray 51:</span></span>


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VortexTikka308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also, i dont plan to have a front flip cover on the objective lens, instead i am going to use a screw in ARD from vortex and only a rear flip lens cover. </div></div>
Obviously it's your choice, but if I were you I wouldn't rely soley on the ARD to protect the Objective Lens. You're going to wind-up with a lot of dirt, dust, and debris on your Objective lens if you don't use a cover of some sort to protect it when not in use.


Keith
 
Re: 308 scope rings question (height issue)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FALex</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You don't have to have your objective lens as close to your bbl as possible "just like everyone else..."</div></div>

+1.

My approach may be different than most, but I like to play around and test rifle/scope combinations a bunch to see what compliments each other. Since every bolt-action rifle & scope are ergonomically different, I've come to prefer 1.00" rings as a universal height fot bolt-action rifles. This fits the worse case scenario of a 34mm tube with compact body (i.e., high flare-angle of objective bell) and scope caps (e.g., PR 3-15, Hensoldt 4-16).

I adjust the comb height or use a stock pack with or without extra padding (old socks work great as long as they are washed ). Whenever I want to swap a scope, it's just mount-and-play.

Of course, this approach doesn't work for semi-autos or bolt-actions in some chassis like AI AX or XLR.