this question is realy for 18"-18.5" barrels. i am about to buy an m1a scout with an 18.5" barrle and have no idea where to zero it at. i own a few ar15's and they are using a 50/300 battle sight zero which works out very well for the platform. when i search the forums for the .308 zero i come up with many different answers. so what .308 zero gives you the most versatility? i will be using mostly from 50 -400 yards, occasionally longer but not much. so where do you like to zero and why?
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.308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
- Thread starter kenndapp
- Start date
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
100 yards cause based off the that your holds out the 300 are the same and you only drop 2 inches or so center mass and you will hit it all the time. What also help is the bushnell trophy 3-9 or 4-12 with the 600 DOA. Have it on my R700 and have no problems hitting a 4"w x 6"h popper from MGM or whatever the lil tomb stone looking thing is.
100 yards cause based off the that your holds out the 300 are the same and you only drop 2 inches or so center mass and you will hit it all the time. What also help is the bushnell trophy 3-9 or 4-12 with the 600 DOA. Have it on my R700 and have no problems hitting a 4"w x 6"h popper from MGM or whatever the lil tomb stone looking thing is.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kenndapp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so with a 100 yard zero i wont be holding over or dialing down until past 300 yards? sounds fantastic. </div></div>
That's not exactly true, assuming you are shooting 168gr. FGMM you'd have ~20 inches of drop at 300 out of an 18 inch barrel (numbers based on my local region)...
Most folks prefer a 100 yard zero, as do I. Once you get a solid 100 yard zero, just get a Trajectory card/dope sheet on that round and you'll be good to go. Depending on scope/reticle a 100 yard zero should get you to about 600 without dialing, but unless you're shooting lasers you'll have to still hold over anything past your zero.
I use the Shooter app on my phone/tablet or the JBM website for some base numbers any time i'm working on or planning to shoot some new rounds (.308 example http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmcard-5.1.cgi)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kenndapp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so with a 100 yard zero i wont be holding over or dialing down until past 300 yards? sounds fantastic. </div></div>
That's not exactly true, assuming you are shooting 168gr. FGMM you'd have ~20 inches of drop at 300 out of an 18 inch barrel (numbers based on my local region)...
Most folks prefer a 100 yard zero, as do I. Once you get a solid 100 yard zero, just get a Trajectory card/dope sheet on that round and you'll be good to go. Depending on scope/reticle a 100 yard zero should get you to about 600 without dialing, but unless you're shooting lasers you'll have to still hold over anything past your zero.
I use the Shooter app on my phone/tablet or the JBM website for some base numbers any time i'm working on or planning to shoot some new rounds (.308 example http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmcard-5.1.cgi)
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
I'll throw my hat in the ring for a 100yd zero as well. For me it is more about simplicity...I know everything in my safe over a .223 is zeroed at 100yd. Keeps it simple and makes the math easier when done in my head.
I'll throw my hat in the ring for a 100yd zero as well. For me it is more about simplicity...I know everything in my safe over a .223 is zeroed at 100yd. Keeps it simple and makes the math easier when done in my head.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
I'll be the oddball here since I zero my .308 for 200yds. I zero at 200 for two reasons:
1. I use this rifle for LR DMR type copmetitions and it works out better for holdovers with my rifle/load/reticle
2. I have acess to a 200yard range
IIRC I'm only 1.7-1.9in high at 100yds which isn't too much of an issue for me to compensate for at 100yds. YMMV
I'll be the oddball here since I zero my .308 for 200yds. I zero at 200 for two reasons:
1. I use this rifle for LR DMR type copmetitions and it works out better for holdovers with my rifle/load/reticle
2. I have acess to a 200yard range
IIRC I'm only 1.7-1.9in high at 100yds which isn't too much of an issue for me to compensate for at 100yds. YMMV
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
Exactly .<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Petey</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like 100yd. Keeps everything simple on the turrets. </div></div>
Exactly .<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Petey</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like 100yd. Keeps everything simple on the turrets. </div></div>
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
100 yards.
it is the baseline for all I do other than pistol or .22LR
100 yards.
it is the baseline for all I do other than pistol or .22LR
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
I've always sighted my guns zeroed at 200 yds. With almost every gun I use, 100yds is 1.5-2 inches high at 100, zeroed at 200, 6-8 inches low at 300, and 18-22 inches low at 400.
Most of my shooting has been deer/coyote/hunting, and with regular duplex style scopes that was always the easiest method for me. You basically hold dead on up to 250 aim a little high at 300 and 18 high at 400.
I sighted my RRA LAR-8 predator HP in at 100yds because it has target turrets, so I can see why people zero at 100 if they're using that style of scope for target shooting. That said, before deer season, I rezeroed it at 200... it just makes things easier for hunting IMHO.
I've always sighted my guns zeroed at 200 yds. With almost every gun I use, 100yds is 1.5-2 inches high at 100, zeroed at 200, 6-8 inches low at 300, and 18-22 inches low at 400.
Most of my shooting has been deer/coyote/hunting, and with regular duplex style scopes that was always the easiest method for me. You basically hold dead on up to 250 aim a little high at 300 and 18 high at 400.
I sighted my RRA LAR-8 predator HP in at 100yds because it has target turrets, so I can see why people zero at 100 if they're using that style of scope for target shooting. That said, before deer season, I rezeroed it at 200... it just makes things easier for hunting IMHO.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
If you zero a rifle at 100 yards, then dial it up to your 300 (or whatever) dope, <span style="text-decoration: underline">the rifle is now zeroed at 300 yards</span>. Reticles are dumb and don't know which number is displayed on the turret.
A zero is nothing more than the point where the crosshairs intersect POI for a given distance. Knowing this, zeroing at distances other than 100 yards makes absolutely no sense.
If a 300 yard "zero" gives you more realistic holds for the distances you're commonly shooting, just dial up from 100 to your 300 yard dope and you're now essentially zeroed at 300. The hash marks on the reticle don't change values based on your zero setting.
If you zero a rifle at 100 yards, then dial it up to your 300 (or whatever) dope, <span style="text-decoration: underline">the rifle is now zeroed at 300 yards</span>. Reticles are dumb and don't know which number is displayed on the turret.
A zero is nothing more than the point where the crosshairs intersect POI for a given distance. Knowing this, zeroing at distances other than 100 yards makes absolutely no sense.
If a 300 yard "zero" gives you more realistic holds for the distances you're commonly shooting, just dial up from 100 to your 300 yard dope and you're now essentially zeroed at 300. The hash marks on the reticle don't change values based on your zero setting.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ecg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">100m. Only because it's the longest covered position at my range. </div></div><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sin City Shooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Another one for 200 yards. </div></div>I don't get it:
If you're zeroed at 100m you are also zeroed at 100 yards.
And if you are zeroed at 200 yards you are also zeroed at 100 yards.
Why do people think that a zero is a limitation?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ecg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">100m. Only because it's the longest covered position at my range. </div></div><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sin City Shooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Another one for 200 yards. </div></div>I don't get it:
If you're zeroed at 100m you are also zeroed at 100 yards.
And if you are zeroed at 200 yards you are also zeroed at 100 yards.
Why do people think that a zero is a limitation?
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ecg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">100m. Only because it's the longest covered position at my range. </div></div><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sin City Shooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Another one for 200 yards. </div></div>I don't get it:
If you're zeroed at 100m you are also zeroed at 100 yards.
And if you are zeroed at 200 yards you are also zeroed at 100 yards.
Why do people think that a zero is a limitation?</div></div>
I get what you are saying Graham, I also zero at 100, but there is also validity in zeroing at a longer range and being able to score hits, such as in a hunting situation, all the way out to nearly 300 in most of the deer capable cartridges out there, using no holdovers. Basically they are advocating zeroing for point blank shooting. I think that approach is best if you didnt have a tactical reticle or target turrets.
For simplicity sake, for range, tactical, or competition use, most should probably zero at 100 and memorize their holdovers if they have the reticle to do so.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ecg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">100m. Only because it's the longest covered position at my range. </div></div><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sin City Shooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Another one for 200 yards. </div></div>I don't get it:
If you're zeroed at 100m you are also zeroed at 100 yards.
And if you are zeroed at 200 yards you are also zeroed at 100 yards.
Why do people think that a zero is a limitation?</div></div>
I get what you are saying Graham, I also zero at 100, but there is also validity in zeroing at a longer range and being able to score hits, such as in a hunting situation, all the way out to nearly 300 in most of the deer capable cartridges out there, using no holdovers. Basically they are advocating zeroing for point blank shooting. I think that approach is best if you didnt have a tactical reticle or target turrets.
For simplicity sake, for range, tactical, or competition use, most should probably zero at 100 and memorize their holdovers if they have the reticle to do so.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
To the OP, I would recommend getting a velocity for the round you want to shoot from your rifle, and then plugging it in to a ballistic calculator such as JBM Ballistics
Shoot me a PM if you run into trouble. You need an accurate sight height, an accurate velocity from your rifle, and the bullet you are shooting. It is an accurate and powerful program you can use to play with different zeros. You can use it to determine, based on a desired maximum miss distance, what your maximum point blank range is.
If you have a mil or moa reticle I would recommend a 100 yard zero and memorizing the holdovers from there.
To the OP, I would recommend getting a velocity for the round you want to shoot from your rifle, and then plugging it in to a ballistic calculator such as JBM Ballistics
Shoot me a PM if you run into trouble. You need an accurate sight height, an accurate velocity from your rifle, and the bullet you are shooting. It is an accurate and powerful program you can use to play with different zeros. You can use it to determine, based on a desired maximum miss distance, what your maximum point blank range is.
If you have a mil or moa reticle I would recommend a 100 yard zero and memorizing the holdovers from there.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kenndapp</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> i own a few ar15's and they are using a 50/300 battle sight zero which works out very well for the platform. when i search the forums for the .308 zero i come up with many different answers. so what .308 zero gives you the most versatility? i will be using mostly from 50 -400 yards, occasionally longer but not much. so where do you like to zero and why?</div></div>
I believe the BZO is 25/300 and 50/200 yds- I zero my AR at 50 yrds.
I zero my RR .308 at 100 yds for the same reasons that most people are posting.
I usually shoot my RR .308 between 100 and 300 yard about 95% of the time. A 100 yard zero only needs about 5 minutes to reach out to 300 yds with a 20 inch barrel.
The 100 zero is easy to adjust and calculate out to 1,000 yds - I have all the numbers memorized for those ranges.
Any decent scope will have enough adjustment from 100 yds to 600 yards or even 1,000 yards (especially with a 20MOA base). No real reason to have any other zero unless you shoot mostly long distance. I have some friends who shoot F class and keep their guns zeroed at 600 because that's where they shoot most of the time.
My .338LM I have zeroed at 600 yards - because its a waste of ammo to shoot anything much closer. But I have to look at my ballistic tables because I can't calculate the changes in my head. Thinking of re-zeroing at 100 yds. This summer i will be shooting at 1,500 yards quite a bit, then I will use a 600 yds zero.
I am so used to a 100 yard zero, it is hard to change to another zero. Some people can do it, but I just cannot memorize the ballistics at different zeros. Too much calculation.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kenndapp</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> i own a few ar15's and they are using a 50/300 battle sight zero which works out very well for the platform. when i search the forums for the .308 zero i come up with many different answers. so what .308 zero gives you the most versatility? i will be using mostly from 50 -400 yards, occasionally longer but not much. so where do you like to zero and why?</div></div>
I believe the BZO is 25/300 and 50/200 yds- I zero my AR at 50 yrds.
I zero my RR .308 at 100 yds for the same reasons that most people are posting.
I usually shoot my RR .308 between 100 and 300 yard about 95% of the time. A 100 yard zero only needs about 5 minutes to reach out to 300 yds with a 20 inch barrel.
The 100 zero is easy to adjust and calculate out to 1,000 yds - I have all the numbers memorized for those ranges.
Any decent scope will have enough adjustment from 100 yds to 600 yards or even 1,000 yards (especially with a 20MOA base). No real reason to have any other zero unless you shoot mostly long distance. I have some friends who shoot F class and keep their guns zeroed at 600 because that's where they shoot most of the time.
My .338LM I have zeroed at 600 yards - because its a waste of ammo to shoot anything much closer. But I have to look at my ballistic tables because I can't calculate the changes in my head. Thinking of re-zeroing at 100 yds. This summer i will be shooting at 1,500 yards quite a bit, then I will use a 600 yds zero.
I am so used to a 100 yard zero, it is hard to change to another zero. Some people can do it, but I just cannot memorize the ballistics at different zeros. Too much calculation.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
Is there a reason to zero at 500 instead of 100? Sure. But the difference in come-ups between a knob set at 100 and one set at 200 is not enough of an advantage in my opinion. The only time I don't 'zero' at 100 is when I am shooting ELR, like with a .50, and then I zero at 500m.
Is there a reason to zero at 500 instead of 100? Sure. But the difference in come-ups between a knob set at 100 and one set at 200 is not enough of an advantage in my opinion. The only time I don't 'zero' at 100 is when I am shooting ELR, like with a .50, and then I zero at 500m.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
I zero my M1A at 50 yards. So much easier to get a dead-nutz zero at 50 yards regardless of what the weather is doing, and the POI is almost dead on at 200 yards as well. only 2.1" low if I recall correctly, but I really don't remember. Using a Mil-Dot reticle, I can now effectively shoot to 600 yards without turning a knob, allowing fast, simple, and effective acquisitions of my '2-liter foe' out in the corn field.
Not to mention with the cheap scope I'm using, honestly, the turret isn't always perfect when spinning the dials. I sometimes wonder if something is getting lost in translation. But thanks to the chrono, I can dial once, and have a whole new set of come-ups for my reticle. To each his own I guess. Everybody has something that works.
I zero my M1A at 50 yards. So much easier to get a dead-nutz zero at 50 yards regardless of what the weather is doing, and the POI is almost dead on at 200 yards as well. only 2.1" low if I recall correctly, but I really don't remember. Using a Mil-Dot reticle, I can now effectively shoot to 600 yards without turning a knob, allowing fast, simple, and effective acquisitions of my '2-liter foe' out in the corn field.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
Oh, and you didn't mention scope or iron sights. If you're using iron sights, refer to the FM to get a battle zero, and then zero out your knobs. Works just like a scope, you have the numbers right there on the dials, and you can engage VERY effectively out to 600 yards. Here's a must-have book for EVERY M1A owner: The M14 Owner's Guide and Match Conditioning Instructions by: Scott A. Duff and John M. Miller. Seriously, it will get you up to speed on the M1A family and prevent a lot of stupid errors regarding things people just don't know. The operating system can be a finicky old hag sometimes....
Oh, and you didn't mention scope or iron sights. If you're using iron sights, refer to the FM to get a battle zero, and then zero out your knobs. Works just like a scope, you have the numbers right there on the dials, and you can engage VERY effectively out to 600 yards. Here's a must-have book for EVERY M1A owner: The M14 Owner's Guide and Match Conditioning Instructions by: Scott A. Duff and John M. Miller. Seriously, it will get you up to speed on the M1A family and prevent a lot of stupid errors regarding things people just don't know. The operating system can be a finicky old hag sometimes....
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
Most folks on the Hide will say 100 yards and I agree. All of my Ar's are zeroed at 100. Basically, just go out to the range with the ammo you plan on using and start builfing your dope card out. Once your zeroed at 100 - start moving back in 50 or 100 yards increments until you are at your max shooting range. Using a ballistics calculator like JBM will help save you alot of ammo and will get you on paper if your inputs are correct (just look up your round ballistics on the web and you will find them).
Then you can type it up - shrink it - and shrink wrap it and put it on your rifle somewhere so know all you need to know is the distance and you can dial your dope and send it. Or, you can carry an iphone/ipad and use the JBM program while you are on the gun if you are just shooting from a bench.
Toughest part will be the wind call once you start shooting around 500-600+. You can even use the JBM program for wind adjustments as well. Technology has come along way.
Good shooting.
Most folks on the Hide will say 100 yards and I agree. All of my Ar's are zeroed at 100. Basically, just go out to the range with the ammo you plan on using and start builfing your dope card out. Once your zeroed at 100 - start moving back in 50 or 100 yards increments until you are at your max shooting range. Using a ballistics calculator like JBM will help save you alot of ammo and will get you on paper if your inputs are correct (just look up your round ballistics on the web and you will find them).
Then you can type it up - shrink it - and shrink wrap it and put it on your rifle somewhere so know all you need to know is the distance and you can dial your dope and send it. Or, you can carry an iphone/ipad and use the JBM program while you are on the gun if you are just shooting from a bench.
Toughest part will be the wind call once you start shooting around 500-600+. You can even use the JBM program for wind adjustments as well. Technology has come along way.
Good shooting.
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
I'm a +1 for a 100yd zero (especially for what you described as your needs). Somebody else said it already, a zero only gives you a reference for holds at other ranges. However...if you do decide to push it out farther than that, make sure your scope can handle any adjustment that you may decide to make (canted rail, vertical adjustment).
I'm a +1 for a 100yd zero (especially for what you described as your needs). Somebody else said it already, a zero only gives you a reference for holds at other ranges. However...if you do decide to push it out farther than that, make sure your scope can handle any adjustment that you may decide to make (canted rail, vertical adjustment).
Re: .308 - where do you like to zero at and why?
100 yards for all my centerfires. After all, it's just a starting point.
100 yards for all my centerfires. After all, it's just a starting point.
