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I’m thinking it would be almost boring.But think how fast a 300gr Berger would get to that mile target! ?
But think how fast a 300gr Berger would get to that mile target! ?
12ish Mils to a mile and 25ish Mils to 2500 yards!At nearly jacket-ripping speeds! 3300 FPS is very appreciable for a 300g pill.
12ish Mils to a mile and 25ish Mils to 2500 yards!
Yeowza!
11ish to a mile and 26ish to 2800!Hi,
285gr Flatlines or one of the other monos in the 270gr range ?.
Sincerely,
Theis
George at badlands is trying to get me to run a 1-7 for his real heavy solid. He didn’t tell me about it until after I already had the 1-8. A lot of people tried to tell me that it was to fast already.Hi,
285gr Flatlines or one of the other monos in the 270gr range ?.
Sincerely,
Theis
I’m fairly confident that the jackets will stay together. We will find out how hard I can push them though! Powder charge in the 140ish range I’m guessingAt nearly jacket-ripping speeds! 3300 FPS is very appreciable for a 300g pill.
I’m fairly confident that the jackets will stay together. We will find out how hard I can push them though! Powder charge in the 140ish range I’m guessing
The trick to 338 SnipeTac is forming a false shoulder that will cam the case head into the bolt when fire forming. I just made a 375 Cheytac to 338 SnipeTac false shoulder forming die with the chamber reamer. The second op is with a neck die.Figured I’d start a little conversation about this since there isn’t a whole lot to be found. I got a deal on a reamer and figured I should snatch it up.
Or buy Bertram snipetac brass?The trick to 338 SnipeTac is forming a false shoulder that will cam the case head into the bolt when fire forming. I just made a 375 Cheytac to 338 SnipeTac false shoulder forming die with the chamber reamer. The second op is with a neck die.
View attachment 7163959
Cheers,
I went down the SnipeTac road long before dedicated brass was available. All these images are Bertram brass.Or buy Bertram snipetac brass?
Don’t be shy; share some load info?
I made them. Left to right: resizer, neck bushing sizer, and seater.Those dies sure do look purdy. Where did they come from?
Which is which from left to right if you would please?The trick to 338 SnipeTac is forming a false shoulder that will cam the case head into the bolt when fire forming. I just made a 375 Cheytac to 338 SnipeTac false shoulder forming die with the chamber reamer. The second op is with a neck die.
View attachment 7163959
Cheers,
I wondered if anyone would notice that line up...Which is which from left to right if you would please?
Thank you
I think you’re asking about the second image showing just the neck and shoulders. The confusion is my fault. I didn’t mean to send the first image with the two cases and one round.Left and center are already necked down though, correct?
Thank youI think you’re asking about the second image showing just the neck and shoulders. The confusion is my fault. I didn’t mean to send the first image with the two cases and one round.
I wanted to post the neck and shoulders image to show the difference between just necking down and forming a false shoulder.
For the second image
Left- 375 case necked down to 338 with a false shoulder.
Center- 375 case necked down to 338
Right- virgin 375 case
Cheers,
That may indeed be the case. I recall checking the inside of all my used brass with a paper clip with a dog-leg in it.Cases that fail that far up are almost always caused by a headspace problem; either on the initial firing or from resizing too much
That may indeed be the case. I recall checking the inside of all my used brass with a paper clip with a dog-leg in it.