Looks like a convincing argument for a 36 yard zero for red dot carbines and some LPVO
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In the offset mount do you do a offset zero since it isn’t directly over bore?I do this for all of my small frame ARs (except my Mod H) and it does work. Zero at 36, POA = POI at 300. This includes 10.3” and 14.5” using 55g IMI and 77g Mk262 and BH equivalents. Also works for 308 as my SR25 has a Trijicon RMR in a 45 degree offset mount.
In the offset mount do you do a offset zero since it isn’t directly over bore?
I can never find the 36yard lane at my club though
Sorry for my ignorance, can you explain the large target waterline test? Thanks.The 36/300 zero is where it’s at for irons or red dots. If you only have 25 meter/yard lanes, just do the math for the offset. If you hate math, targets have the offset marked for use at 25.
I’ve been using 36/300 since 2003 and am baffled each time I go to a training or cert course and they promote the 25/50/200. What’s worse is when you show them the numbers and they just shrug and say this is how we’ve always done it.
If you aren’t convinced, put a waterline on a large target backer and see for yourself how they compare at each yard line.
Of course man.Sorry for my ignorance, can you explain the large target waterline test? Thanks.
No problem man and thanks.Makes perfect sense, thanks for the help! So many abbreviations on this sight it gets confusing on some stuff. Thanks again and hope you get some rest.
Use his 25 yard target offset and you are good to go.I can never find the 36yard lane at my club though
I’ve never run a 300blk but you can check out the shifts by plugging the data into a ballistic calculator.I use a 50yd zero for my scoped .223 has coyote rifle, using ammo in the 62gr-69gr range, because I get plenty of close shots. It’s always given me good results out to the max 250yd shots I typically have, in the area I work. I’ve been wondering whether the 36yd would be better but I don’t really see how the 14yd distance change would have some drastic effect? I’m guessing this is all highly dependent on the velocities you’re getting in your particular rifle? Like, a 18” bbl shooting 55gr might be better suited whereas a 10.5” bbl shooting 77gr might not be as well suited?
How does the 36yd method work with a short barreled 300Blk shooting something speedier like a 110gr pill? I’m about to add a offset MRD and maybe a 36yd sight-in would be good for it and then go back to a standard 100yd zero with my variable power scope?
Looks like a convincing argument for a 36 yard zero for red dot carbines and some LPVO
What grain bullets, and velocity are you shooting?39 yard zero is actually my mpbr for 223 out to 420 with 3 inch spread
Was just gonna say this. USMC was/has been using the 33m (36y) zero for many, many moons.Started using a 36 meter zero as a recruit in 1997. Would be willing to bet that the Marines were using it for decades by then.
Rear sight elevation on 8/3, and presto magico...you were right on at 300 meters as well.
Been a couple years since I retired...did the Corps stop doing this?
That is about where I ended up looking just at calculations.39 yard zero is actually my mpbr for 223 out to 420 with 3 inch spread
What app is that?
Strelok. Likely the Pro version which is all of like $15 in the app store. Phenomenal value.What app is that?
How many grains for the projectile and what ballistic coefficient, or do you just want those the same?Redo it with a 3” scope height and 2750 FPS please.
How many grains for the projectile and what ballistic coefficient, or do you just want those the same?
Here's a table of bullet drop I created out to 300 yards that shows the effect of different zeroing choices. The 36 yard zero wins. It drops the least across 300 yards (8.57"). It produces the narrowest range between the maximum rise and drop values (9.86"). Here's the most impressive thing: The average drop along the whole trajectory out to 300 yards is lowest (-1.36"), and the median average is also the lowest at -.41 inches. The only category in which the 36 y zero loses is it produces that greatest rise along the trajectory, and that's at 100 yards (1.29"). If you KNOW you're going to be shooting targets at exactly 100 yards, then the 100 yard zero (obviously) or even the 25 yard zero are ideal. But if the range of your target could be anywhere out to 300 yards, your best choice among those shown is the 36 yard zero. Shawn is correct based on this analysis.
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How does all that equate to a person shooting 2 to 3 MOA accuracy since this is a battle zero we are talking about? On your calculator you show it is superior. But by what percentage vs a 25 yard zero? Is it material? Easier softer ways avail us nothing. Using iron sights the SKS manual calls for a 100 meter zero prone with just a sling. Does that back into a 36 yard zero? Your rifle zero is only correct at two distances. What is the other one?