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Rifle Scopes 3x15 FFP or SFP for hunting

HornyToad

Private
Minuteman
Oct 23, 2019
60
15
I have Remington Model 700 .270 and feel a 3x15 scope would be a good power range for the .270 ballistics. 3x15 is kind of a mid range power scope. On a higher power scope I would go with a FFP scope. On a lower power scope I would want to go with a SFP scope. My thinking is if I was target shooting I would want a FFP 3x15 scope for my .270, but for hunting I'm thinking I might want a SFP scope. I'm kind of new at this so tell me where I might be going wrong. Thanks!
 
I got my wife a swfa 3-15 last year and it's pretty nice for the money. On their Black Friday sale which is coming up seems they mark it down to about $550.
 
You didn't mention price point...

I have found that Leica Magnus (2.4 × 16) and Meopta Meostar (1 &2) in the similar range to have outstanding optics and mechanicals. Some nice features and usable reticles as well as light weight. In other words, some of the desirable target scope features in a hunting package. Check them out.

Oh, and Doug above can help with all of them.
 
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SFP is usually preferred for hunting because using low magnification is common, and SFP provides the better low mag aiming point. 3-15X is reasonable, although you likely won’t be pulling the trigger on an animal above 10X. But having more mag can be useful for examining animals you’re still stalking into range on.
 
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You didn't mention price point...

I have found that Leica Magnus (2.4 × 16) and Meopta Meostar (1 &2) in the similar range to have outstanding optics and mechanicals. Some nice features and usable reticles as well as light weight. In other words, some of the desirable target scope features in a hunting package. Check them out.

Oh, and Doug above can help with all of them.

Under $1000. I would also like illuminated reticle and a large objective so I can shoot later. I'll look at those scopes. Thanks.
 
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SFP is usually preferred for hunting because using low magnification is common, and SFP provides the better low mag aiming point. 3-15X is reasonable, although you likely won’t be pulling the trigger on an animal above 10X. But having more mag can be useful for examining animals you’re still stalking into range on.

That's what I was looking for, some validation of my theory. Thanks!
 
I decided this past weekend that I want a FFP for hunting. I had a coyote trot by at around 270-290 yards. My NF SHV 5-20 has a capped elevation turret, and is SFP. I was on 5X and easily found the coyote through the scope, didn't have time to turn up magnification but had a brain freeze because I couldn't dial the turret quickly enough and didn't think ahead of time about where my hold point would be at that distance if I needed to take a quick shot. In the <3 seconds I had, I wasn't able to get a shot off. I feel like I could have shot if I had one of my FFP scopes on that gun.

It was my first hunt with the SHV and I feel like the top end of it's magnification range is definitely way too much for hunting. In the future, I know to remove the turret cap when I get in the blind and also, if it's a passing coyote, just hold at the top of its back and throw lead.
 
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I decided this past weekend that I want a FFP for hunting. I had a coyote trot by at around 270-290 yards. My NF SHV 5-20 has a capped elevation turret, and is SFP. I was on 5X and easily found the coyote through the scope, didn't have time to turn up magnification but had a brain freeze because I couldn't dial the turret quickly enough and didn't think ahead of time about where my hold point would be at that distance if I needed to take a quick shot. In the <3 seconds I had, I wasn't able to get a shot off. I feel like I could have shot if I had one of my FFP scopes on that gun.

It was my first hunt with the SHV and I feel like the top end of it's magnification range is definitely way too much for hunting. In the future, I know to remove the turret cap when I get in the blind and also, if it's a passing coyote, just hold at the top of its back and throw lead.

Thank you for that perspective.
 
That's what I was looking for, some validation of my theory. Thanks!
I use both FFP and SFP for hunting depending on application.

SFP reticle is great for up close stuff like when I smack rabbits with my .22... snaps and movers, quick stuff where no turret adjustment is needed or required. I use a Sig Whiskey 3 with circle plex reticle.

I use the FFP for longer ranges where I can use the reticle for ranging and have the time to do so. Click value matches with my reticle subtensions, etc. Vortex Viper PST Gen II 3-15 MRAD EBR-2c reticle with illumination.
 
I choose FFP for hunting and targets. In a hunting scenario I like to dial elevation, but prefer to hold wind (it's always changing). I need the reticle subtension to remain valid for the wind holds whether I'm at 6x or 12x.

Good illumination solves the low magnification issues presented with FFP. Essentially turns your scope into a red dot at low power.
 
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I use both FFP and SFP for hunting depending on application.

SFP reticle is great for up close stuff like when I smack rabbits with my .22... snaps and movers, quick stuff where no turret adjustment is needed or required. I use a Sig Whiskey 3 with circle plex reticle.

I use the FFP for longer ranges where I can use the reticle for ranging and have the time to do so. Click value matches with my reticle subtensions, etc. Vortex Viper PST Gen II 3-15 MRAD EBR-2c reticle with illumination.

That makes sense for a .22. Thanks!
 
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I choose FFP for hunting and targets. In a hunting scenario I like to dial elevation, but prefer to hold wind (it's always changing). I need the reticle subtension to remain valid for the wind holds whether I'm at 6x or 12x.

Good illumination solves the low magnification issues presented with FFP. Essentially turns your scope into a red dot at low power.

I'm starting to lean towards FFP because of the illuminated reticle. Thanks!
 
I really like the 2-10 and 3-15 XTRIIs for hunting/target rifles. In the PX they can be found between $550-$750, making it a great budget friendly option.

Recommend the SCR illuminated reticle. The illuminated cross is great at low power.
 
I decided this past weekend that I want a FFP for hunting. I had a coyote trot by at around 270-290 yards. My NF SHV 5-20 has a capped elevation turret, and is SFP. I was on 5X and easily found the coyote through the scope, didn't have time to turn up magnification but had a brain freeze because I couldn't dial the turret quickly enough and didn't think ahead of time about where my hold point would be at that distance if I needed to take a quick shot. In the <3 seconds I had, I wasn't able to get a shot off. I feel like I could have shot if I had one of my FFP scopes on that gun.

It was my first hunt with the SHV and I feel like the top end of it's magnification range is definitely way too much for hunting. In the future, I know to remove the turret cap when I get in the blind and also, if it's a passing coyote, just hold at the top of its back and throw lead.
A SFP scope zeroed at 200-250 yards would have been perfect. 300 yards top of back and the bullet would hit. No need for a ruler at these short distances.
 
I decided this past weekend that I want a FFP for hunting. I had a coyote trot by at around 270-290 yards. My NF SHV 5-20 has a capped elevation turret, and is SFP. I was on 5X and easily found the coyote through the scope, didn't have time to turn up magnification but had a brain freeze because I couldn't dial the turret quickly enough and didn't think ahead of time about where my hold point would be at that distance if I needed to take a quick shot. In the <3 seconds I had, I wasn't able to get a shot off. I feel like I could have shot if I had one of my FFP scopes on that gun.

It was my first hunt with the SHV and I feel like the top end of it's magnification range is definitely way too much for hunting. In the future, I know to remove the turret cap when I get in the blind and also, if it's a passing coyote, just hold at the top of its back and throw lead.

Had you had a FFP scope you may well have had issues using holdovers on that low of a magnification setting.

SFP and FFP both have disadvantages and advantages, best thing you can do is learn what those are and use that information to choose something best suited to your circumstances.
 
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Always FFP
Strongly disagree.

Do you have a 3-15X FFP scope? I do.

If you do, have you ever tried to shooting something in relatively dark woods or overcast day at 3 or 4X with it? I have.

It sucked.

If your answer to either is no then I don't think your advice is worth much.
 
Strongly disagree.

Do you have a 3-15X FFP scope? I do.

If you do, have you ever tried to shooting something in relatively dark woods or overcast day at 3 or 4X with it? I have.

It sucked.

If your answer to either is no then I don't think your advice is worth much.

I have a 3-15 and have had one for a while. I also primarily use mine in wooded areas sunshine or not as I do a lot of hunting. I use scopes with illuminated reticle though.
 
Why is illumination nessacery on 1st focal and not 2nd just curious?
Thx
Elmer
When you turn down the magnification on a FFP scope to let more light through the scope in early morning or late evening, the reticle is so thin it completely disappears. Turn the magnification up to see the reticle and the scope won’t let enough light through to see the target. Without illumination you won’t make the shot. I have been burned once before just like that. This is only during the first and last few minutes of light if you are out in the open, and could be over a much longer time period if you are hunting inside timber. FFP scopes can definitely be used effectively just make sure you have a fresh pair of batteries in the scope on an important hunt.

A SFP reticle is typically bold enough to see at all times. Especially the reticle designs typical on traditional hunting scopes. Never once have I thought about illumination. If it were an option on a scope I liked I would get it just because but I would not cross a scope off my list if it lacked it.
 
When you turn down the magnification on a FFP scope to let more light through the scope in early morning or late evening, the reticle is so thin it completely disappears. Turn the magnification up to see the reticle and the scope won’t let enough light through to see the target. Without illumination you won’t make the shot. I have been burned once before just like that. This is only during the first and last few minutes of light if you are out in the open, and could be over a much longer time period if you are hunting inside timber. FFP scopes can definitely be used effectively just make sure you have a fresh pair of batteries in the scope on an important hunt.

A SFP reticle is typically bold enough to see at all times. Especially the reticle designs typical on traditional hunting scopes. Never once have I thought about illumination. If it were an option on a scope I liked I would get it just because but I would not cross a scope off my list if it lacked it.

Refreshing to read something about FFP and SFP scopes from someone who actually understands their strengths and weaknesses in various situations, rather than the fanboy nonsense.
 
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0068B8A3-9891-4AA1-A6CA-23846600F9E3.jpeg
It's on a chunkier side and weight, but Steiner P4xi 4-16x56 from Camera Land will serve you well. I run one on T3x 7mm-08 and took a little five pointer in low light last week
 
When you turn down the magnification on a FFP scope to let more light through the scope in early morning or late evening, the reticle is so thin it completely disappears. Turn the magnification up to see the reticle and the scope won’t let enough light through to see the target. Without illumination you won’t make the shot. I have been burned once before just like that. This is only during the first and last few minutes of light if you are out in the open, and could be over a much longer time period if you are hunting inside timber. FFP scopes can definitely be used effectively just make sure you have a fresh pair of batteries in the scope on an important hunt.

A SFP reticle is typically bold enough to see at all times. Especially the reticle designs typical on traditional hunting scopes. Never once have I thought about illumination. If it were an option on a scope I liked I would get it just because but I would not cross a scope off my list if it lacked it.

That certainly sums it up very well. Thank you!
 
When it comes to ffp and hunting close up, in low light, I think the reticle plays a huge role. You can’t expect to see a fine reticle at low power, and low light, on a ffp scope. If how you shoot things is likely close, fast, in low light, best bet to stick to a sfp scope.

I also agree with you in that a lower power SFP scope isn’t as detrimental as a high power SFP scope. On a max 10x scope, if I’m taking a shot that requires any accurate holding, I’m probably going to be on max power anyways. Animals have a fairly large x ring, you don’t have to thread the needle on those close shots to make meat.

On the other side I had a sfp scope that went to 18x and hated it. It had to be on 18x to have accurate holds. That made it more difficult.

Then I have my swfa 3-9. Ffp, low power. Thick reticle though that is usable for me in many situations. Not the best for being precise long, by the thicker reticle, combined with the larger posts of the reticle, make closer shots at low power doable. On top of that I can leave it on 6x and do all I need over both ends, and be happy.

Going forward I’m going with your train of thought. 3-15 is probably on that ragged edge. I’d let your hunting style dictate. If your hunting more open areas, where you likely have time to setup shots I’d think ffp might be an advantage. Closer in or in timber, sfp is what I’d be looking for. Personally if I’m getting a 15x or higher max magnification scope I’m probably going to want ffp, just based on how I hunt.

Illumination makes a difference, but I don’t count on it to make a shot if I don’t have to.
 
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When it comes to ffp and hunting close up, in low light, I think the reticle plays a huge role. You can’t expect to see a fine reticle at low power, and low light, on a ffp scope. If how you shoot things is likely close, fast, in low light, best bet to stick to a sfp scope.

I also agree with you in that a lower power SFP scope isn’t as detrimental as a high power SFP scope. On a max 10x scope, if I’m taking a shot that requires any accurate holding, I’m probably going to be on max power anyways. Animals have a fairly large x ring, you don’t have to thread the needle on those close shots to make meat.

On the other side I had a sfp scope that went to 18x and hated it. It had to be on 18x to have accurate holds. That made it more difficult.

Then I have my swfa 3-9. Ffp, low power. Thick reticle though that is usable for me in many situations. Not the best for being precise long, by the thicker reticle, combined with the larger posts of the reticle, make closer shots at low power doable. On top of that I can leave it on 6x and do all I need over both ends, and be happy.

Going forward I’m going with your train of thought. 3-15 is probably on that ragged edge. I’d let your hunting style dictate. If your hunting more open areas, where you likely have time to setup shots I’d think ffp might be an advantage. Closer in or in timber, sfp is what I’d be looking for. Personally if I’m getting a 15x or higher max magnification scope I’m probably going to want ffp, just based on how I hunt.

Illumination makes a difference, but I don’t count on it to make a shot if I don’t have to.

Excellent well thought out response. Thank you!