419 hellfire brake issue

[Doorgunner68]

Just tried to install 419 hellfire brake on my new sig PRS .308 rifle. No matter what I do I can’t pop in the brake to lock it in. The videos make it look effortlessly. It seems to hand tighten down and the brake seems firm, but I haven’t tried to shoot a few rounds through it either. The only thing else to mention is when I installed the adapter I had just a little bit of bore thread still showing. Not sure this means anything, but I thought I should mention it. Thanks

 

[Supersubes]

Bore thread showing? Dont know what that means.

So when you loosen the knurled nut, the brake isnt stuck to the taper at all?

 

[_Windrider_]

Just tried to install 419 hellfire brake on my new sig PRS .308 rifle. No matter what I do I can’t pop in the brake to lock it in. The videos make it look effortlessly. It seems to hand tighten down and the brake seems firm, but I haven’t tried to shoot a few rounds through it either. The only thing else to mention is when I installed the adapter I had just a little bit of bore thread still showing. Not sure this means anything, but I thought I should mention it. Thanks

Can we see a picture of the adapter installed?

@flyer1a might want to see this

 

[mark5pt56]

Just to check, Sig normally has the taper which accommodates their tapered mounts and suppressors. Generally they provide the collar that should be used with 90 degree mounts and direct mount suppressors. My guess is that's not on there which is why you may be seeing "barrel threads/taper"
I don't think I hear or feel a "pop" when installing the brake but do when removing.

TAPER CAP FOR 7.62 BARRELS, 5/8-24 THREAD

Taper Cap for 7.62 Barrels, 5/8-24 THREAD

www.sigsauer.com

sig sauer barrel taper adapter

 

[Kfive73]

My experience….like above I’ve never heard or felt it pop when installing. My method has been to stick it on as level as I can, tighten it up a little bit to pull it into the adapter, loosen just a little and check level, then tighten all the way. After shooting with it, there’s kind of a pop when removing (it gets tight enough to where I have to use gloves to twist and break it free from the adapter— after loosing the collar)

 

[Doorgunner68]

Bore thread showing? Dont know what that means.

So when you loosen the knurled nut, the brake isnt stuck to the taper at all?

Yes, if I hand tighten the collar the brake pulls tight against the cone and will no longer rotate like it’s where it’s supposed to be. When I loosen the collar to remove it the brakes stays firmly in place until a point after a number if rotations on the collar it breaks free. I just never get the click.

This is exactly what I :

1. I installed the adapter

2. I threaded the muzzle brake on and snugged it to there was some resistance on the brake so that I could align it

3. I then pushed on the nose of the brake, but it will never give be the noticeable click like in the videos. If I hand tighten the knurled collar it seems to pull the brake tight to the barrel cone and the brake not want to easily rotate, but I never get the definitive click.

4. I can loosen the knurled nut, and the brake will stay seated to the cone and then eventually will break free with continued loosening of the knurled collar.

 

[netcat]

For what its worth mine does not click or make any audible sound when seating or removing it from the taper and behaves exactly like you describe. Guess I never paid attention to whether it did or not but just checked as I was packing up one of my rifles for the range tommorow.

 

[Supersubes]

Yes, if I hand tighten the collar the brake pulls tight against the cone and will no longer rotate like it’s where it’s supposed to be. When I loosen the collar to remove it the brakes stays firmly in place until a point after a number if rotations on the collar it breaks free. I just never get the click.

This is exactly what I :

1. I installed the adapter

2. I threaded the muzzle brake on and snugged it to there was some resistance on the brake so that I could align it

3. I then pushed on the nose of the brake, but it will never give be the noticeable click like in the videos. If I hand tighten the knurled collar it seems to pull the brake tight to the barrel cone and the brake not want to easily rotate, but I never get the definitive click.

4. I can loosen the knurled nut, and the brake will stay seated to the cone and then eventually will break free with continued loosening of the knurled collar.

Thats exactly how it should work. Enjoy.

 

[Doorgunner68]

Thats exactly how it should work. Enjoy.

Thanks guys for the quick help. Area 419 customer service just sent me this answer as well

“You're good to go, you may not always hear a click, but if it's seating on the taper that's what matters. “

 

[Joeyg023]

I had this same exact issue with bore thread showing. I ordered 2 brakes and all. The adaptors were the same on both barrels. They changed soemthing at some point. From what i can tell the threads aren’t long enough anymore inside the adaptors. I had to send mine back. I told them if it had 2 more threads inside the adaptor it would work. I’ve been using them for years and never had a issue with them fitting all the way to the shoulder of the barrel.

 

[spife7980]

^^^
I noticed something similar when I was learning to cut muzzle threads myself. Had a relief cut at the shoulder and couldn’t make out why it wouldn’t thread up. Then I noticed the front bottoming out.
Once I got out my calipers I realized I was cutting my threads longer than the .6” 5/8x24 spec. Cut them back to .6” long and the adaptors fit great.
Looks like you may have muzzle threads that are longer than spec?

 

[_Windrider_]

^^^
I noticed something similar when I was learning to cut muzzle threads myself. Had a relief cut at the shoulder and couldn’t make out why it wouldn’t thread up. Then I noticed the front bottoming out.
Once I got out my calipers I realized I was cutting my threads longer than the .6” 5/8x24 spec. Cut them back to .6” long and the adaptors fit great.
Looks like you may have muzzle threads that are longer than spec?

Something like this is my thought as well. I literally have a dozen of these things and all fit to the shoulder perfectly

 

[Joeyg023]

^^^
I noticed something similar when I was learning to cut muzzle threads myself. Had a relief cut at the shoulder and couldn’t make out why it wouldn’t thread up. Then I noticed the front bottoming out.
Once I got out my calipers I realized I was cutting my threads longer than the .6” 5/8x24 spec. Cut them back to .6” long and the adaptors fit great.
Looks like you may have muzzle threads that are longer than spec?

That’s what i thought with mine but both a Sig tapered barrel with a tapered adaptor and a Wilson barrel both 5/8x24 were the same way. I figured both barrels being out of spec would be strange since it’s different companies. Area419 claims they haven’t changed anything, but I’ve never had this issue before. I have another Wilson combat 308 barrel with no issues like this but it’s 3 years old.

 

[kthomas]

That’s what i thought with mine but both a Sig tapered barrel with a tapered adaptor and a Wilson barrel both 5/8x24 were the same way. I figured both barrels being out of spec would be strange since it’s different companies. Area419 claims they haven’t changed anything, but I’ve never had this issue before. I have another Wilson combat 308 barrel with no issues like this but it’s 3 years old.

You should think about trying one of your older A419 adapters on these barrels, and if they work that helps to rule out the muzzle threads.

 

[Joeyg023]

Not sure how long the OP threads are but here is what i sent to area419 for mine.

 

[Joeyg023]

You should think about trying one of your older A419 adapters on these barrels, and if they work that helps to rule out the muzzle threads.

Yeah that’s my next step. I was trying to avoid it since they have loctite on them but only blue loctite.

 

[mark5pt56]

You could use timing washers, common items. Someone here may have some lying about?

 

[kthomas]

Yeah that’s my next step. I was trying to avoid it since they have loctite on them but only blue loctite.

Should be no problem to remove. I loctite on my muzzle devices (red) and don't have too much of an issue getting them off when needed.

At least this will help in diagnosing your issue.

 

[Supersubes]

^^^
I noticed something similar when I was learning to cut muzzle threads myself. Had a relief cut at the shoulder and couldn’t make out why it wouldn’t thread up. Then I noticed the front bottoming out.
Once I got out my calipers I realized I was cutting my threads longer than the .6” 5/8x24 spec. Cut them back to .6” long and the adaptors fit great.
Looks like you may have muzzle threads that are longer than spec?

Ive noticed in that last year or so even a dead on .6 tenon doesn't fit a lot of them. I cut to .580 now when a hellfire adapter will go on it.