6.5 PRC action - Tikka, Savage or other???

[Smitty192]

I am looking at a 6.5 PRC project and I am making an assumption with the cartridge being relatively new that this subject hasn't been completely beaten to death.
I am very interested in being able to run the 147 bullets with the added velocity.

Most of the unknown, for me, revolves around the action and magazine. A Tikka action seems to make sense. Maybe a Savage 12 LRP action with a bolt swap (3.01" internal capacity). Maybe something else... I don't have a crazy budget that would allow a custom action so I'm going to be looking for a donor action.

What magazine is working best for the 6.5 PRC?

Has anyone done a conversation? Any thoughts, experiences and snide comments are most welcome.

 

[Steel head]

Either of those actions would Be a cheaper option.

Any magnum magazine would work
Short or long.

 

[6brshooter]

Accurate 300wsm mags work good, only option for tikka or savage. I prefer the tikka, better action, trigger options and more chassis/stock inlets. You are gonna be limited by mag oal, whether you go aics mag(2.980) or internal mag of savage. The tikka la mags might have more oal, but you will be stuck with stocks that only can use factory bottom metal. If you are set on using 147, and with a 2.980 max oal, I'd be getting a barrel chambered with a .130 or .150 freebore.

 

[Smitty192]

I'm bored at work....I found this.

Tikka nEXTgen Long Action AICS Bottom Metal

RedSnake Tactical's nEXTgen Bottom Metal is AICS Magazine Compatible (long action) and is a factory replacement DMB for Tikka T3/T3x stocks allows OAL of 3.500+

www.redsnake-tactical.com

RedSnake Tactical - News and Updates

RedSnake Tactical Tikka T3 / T3x aftermarket bottom metal DBM for long action

www.redsnake-tactical.com

 

[Smitty192]

Accurate 300wsm mags work good, only option for tikka or savage. I prefer the tikka, better action, trigger options and more chassis/stock inlets. You are gonna be limited by mag oal, whether you go aics mag(2.980) or internal mag of savage. The tikka la mags might have more oal, but you will be stuck with stocks that only can use factory bottom metal. If you are set on using 147, and with a 2.980 max oal, I'd be getting a barrel chambered with a .130 or .150 freebore.

Maybe a long action is the way to go?

 

[6brshooter]

I load 58.2gr h1000 and 147gr eldm, it wasnt a compressed load, and this was to fit in a 2.980 mag. With a .188 freebore, I was jumping .050" though. Hence my suggestion for .130freebore.

 

[6brshooter]

I switched over to 140eldm, I can get those to the rifling and still fit in mag easily.

140s do good at 1700.

 

[just browsing]

Accurate 300wsm mags work good, only option for tikka or savage. I prefer the tikka, better action, trigger options and more chassis/stock inlets. You are gonna be limited by mag oal, whether you go aics mag(2.980) or internal mag of savage. The tikka la mags might have more oal, but you will be stuck with stocks that only can use factory bottom metal. If you are set on using 147, and with a 2.980 max oal, I'd be getting a barrel chambered with a .130 or .150 freebore.

This is good advice to follow.

 

[6brshooter]

The other benefit of a short action, there are more used stocks available in short action lengths, if funds are tight. I'd rather spend money on an origin action and buy a used stock.

 

[Smitty192]

The other benefit of a short action, there are more used stocks available in short action lengths, if funds are tight. I'd rather spend money on an origin action and buy a used stock.

And then there's that...Origin with Accurate WSM mags. Maybe just save for a bit or not pay my utilities for a bit.

 

[just browsing]

And then there's that...Origin with Accurate WSM mags. Maybe just save for a bit or not pay my utilities for a bit.

Ultimately, the decision is your’s. But I will just say that I don’t feel as though I’m making any comprises in terms of reliability or performance running my customs vs. my Tikka.

 

[6brshooter]

My trued up tikka, didnt need much of anything trued, is just as slick as my origin and almost as smooth as my deadline.

 

[6brshooter]

Origin with a 22" pva heavy palma 6.5prc, for encouragement, lol

 

[Smitty192]

View attachment 7166490
Origin with a 22" pva heavy palma 6.5prc, for encouragement, lol

Very slick rifle. No encouragement needed. I spend gun money very easily. I do appreciate the advise and knowledge.
What's the velocity out of the 22" barrel?

 

[6brshooter]

2927 with 140s. That was with only 26rds on barrel

 

[hereinaz]

I saw a used 7mm rem mag Savage long action rifle on Gunbroker you could pick up for less than $300 bucks after you pay your FFL to get it. Throw that into a bedded Boyd's with a 6.5 prefit barrel and you have the least expensive rifle build. And, they will shoot. Now, it won't win for looks or for speed in competitions, but who cares if that isn't the way you run it. I haven't bought a savage prefit that didn't shoot .5 moa or better with a little load development.

The Alamo actions are nice, some say better than Origin for the same money, if you go custom. Savage prefits for those save the cost of a gunsmith chambering too.

 

[Smitty192]

I saw a used 7mm rem mag Savage long action rifle on Gunbroker you could pick up for less than $300 bucks after you pay your FFL to get it. Throw that into a bedded Boyd's with a 6.5 prefit barrel and you have the least expensive rifle build. And, they will shoot. Now, it won't win for looks or for speed in competitions, but who cares if that isn't the way you run it. I haven't bought a savage prefit that didn't shoot .5 moa or better with a little load development.

The Alamo actions are nice, some say better than Origin for the same money, if you go custom. Savage prefits for those save the cost of a gunsmith chambering too.

Good stuff.

 

[6brshooter]

Good option. Is that action small or large shank? I've got a shilen 26" 6.5prc savage prefit on my deadline, it hammers for a 400.00 barrel

 

[patriot07]

No way on earth I'd spend a bunch of money on a build on a savage action with their significant history of FTF and FTE. I used to not believe it til I got a few hundred rounds into my last Savage and it started dumping brass on top of my mag. Swapped extractor and ejector fixed it, but I'm not going to bother with it anymore for anything other than a hunting rig that won't be shot much. They're really accurate, but Tikka is an upgrade in every possible way.

 

[Jackomason]

If it's for a dedicated hunting rifle I'd have a hard time going with a LA and not going bigger. If I can save weight by going shot and not loosing anything then that's what I'd do.

Also, what will you be paying for the doner rifle? It may very well be worth looking into a custom action. Or you can find a trued Remington action for pretty cheap. There are a lot of good options out there. Heck I bought my wife a savage for $219! But in my mind it's kinda a $219 rifle...

I'd choose a tikka over a savage anyday, but if you end up anywhere near the price of an origin then consider the fact you'll be getting rid of %50 of what you paid for ($500-$650?). The origin also will give you the ability to spin up a non barrel burning trainer real easy. I cant help but promote it, I love mine.

 

[hereinaz]

Good option. Is that action small or large shank? I've got a shilen 26" 6.5prc savage prefit on my deadline, it hammers for a 400.00 barrelView attachment 7166557

Small shank.

 

[hereinaz]

If it's for a dedicated hunting rifle I'd have a hard time going with a LA and not going bigger. If I can save weight by going shot and not loosing anything then that's what I'd do.

Also, what will you be paying for the doner rifle? It may very well be worth looking into a custom action. Or you can find a trued Remington action for pretty cheap. There are a lot of good options out there. Heck I bought my wife a savage for $219! But in my mind it's kinda a $219 rifle...

I'd choose a tikka over a savage anyday, but if you end up anywhere near the price of an origin then consider the fact you'll be getting rid of %50 of what you paid for ($500-$650?). The origin also will give you the ability to spin up a non barrel burning trainer real easy. I cant help but promote it, I love mine.

For the cost, Savage is the lowest. No way I would stop with a Tikka, just go all the way to a custom like Bighorn or Alamo.

 

[Jackomason]

For the cost, Savage is the lowest. No way I would stop with a Tikka, just go all the way to a custom like Bighorn or Alamo.

Agreed, tikka is a great out of the box rifle. If the OP was wanting a rifle he could shoot the barrel out of an upgrade later then the tikka would be a good choice.

 

[6brshooter]

For the cost, Savage is the lowest. No way I would stop with a Tikka, just go all the way to a custom like Bighorn or Alamo.

I think your selling the tikka short. No way could I do a savage, had a bunch and done to one now. I've had 2 tikkas done, both actions were trued but the smith said when he started to true up action, the first skim pass removed finish evenly. Meaning the receiver face, lug abutments, and bolt face were damn near perfect. I had used both actions and bolt lugs showed even 90% wear on finish. My smith lapped lugs in and removed radius at front of action so I could use commonly available 1.2" shank barrels. My tikka is just as smooth as my high mileage aiae's and deadline, smoother than my at and barely smoother than my origin(properly timed cocking piece). Tikka factory trigger is perfect for anything except br use, and as ruebenski mentioned, a krg bravo is cheap and a solid stock. I reiterate, if you go short action and want to use 147 or 156, use a .130 freebore reamer.

 

[Smitty192]

I think your selling the tikka short. No way could I do a savage, had a bunch and done to one now. I've had 2 tikkas done, both actions were trued but the smith said when he started to true up action, the first skim pass removed finish evenly. Meaning the receiver face, lug abutments, and bolt face were damn near perfect. I had used both actions and bolt lugs showed even 90% wear on finish. My smith lapped lugs in and removed radius at front of action so I could use commonly available 1.2" shank barrels. My tikka is just as smooth as my high mileage aiae's and deadline, smoother than my at and barely smoother than my origin(properly timed cocking piece). Tikka factory trigger is perfect for anything except br use, and as ruebenski mentioned, a krg bravo is cheap and a solid stock. I reiterate, if you go short action and want to use 147 or 156, use a .130 freebore reamer.

After a bit of reading and some feedback from everyone here...I think the Savage is probably not going to be a route I would pursue. A PVA barreled action would be around $1500 with no trigger. The Tikka is very intriguing. I had one in the past and found the action and factory trigger really nice. I think I can find a magnum bolt face donor for around $650ish, PVA cut barrel $650, KRG Bravo, brake & mags should be well under the $2K. Maybe less by selling some of the Tikka parts. Or there is another dozen or so different options...or just get an RPR 6.5PRC. Decisions, decisions...

 

[DangerRanger]

Tikka and look at hell’s canyon armory magazines.

If I build another prc or short mag it will very likely be a tikka

 

[Smitty192]

Question for you Tikka aficionados...The most optimal donor rifle would be a T3X / WSM, correct?

 

[DangerRanger]

Most optimum would be a long action magnum.

tikka short action mags won’t fit a prc they are wicked short. It’s all the same receiver but eight more metal in the bolt stop(can be filed and removed) and a permanent block in the magazine

 

[Smitty192]

Most optimum would be a long action magnum.

tikka short action mags won’t fit a prc they are wicked short. It’s all the same receiver but eight more metal in the bolt stop(can be filed and removed) and a permanent block in the magazine

Would you need to use a LA bolt stop in conjunction with an AI WSM mag?

 

[DangerRanger]

Would you need to use a LA bolt stop in conjunction with an AI WSM mag?

Nope sorry should run in a bravo with AI mags with a short stop I believe, missed the bravo bit. My bad

 

[just browsing]

Tikka SAUM. Just to reiterate, I prefer shooting this some days to my match rigs, and I have - literally - less than 1/3 the cost into this rifle than I do my Impact.

 

[6brshooter]

What bolt handle?

 

[just browsing]

What bolt handle?

Atlasworx. Tried the Sterk but it interfered with my hand so I ditched it. Really like the oversized handle, makes manipulation a breeze.

 

[Smitty192]

Tikka SAUM. Just to reiterate, I prefer shooting this some days to my match rigs, and I have - literally - less than 1/3 the cost into this rifle than I do my Impact.

View attachment 7167191

Which Tikka model did you start with? What magazine are you using? Nice rig BTW.

 

[JaoeyP]

Just a thought but for all the money you're looking at putting into this you might consider a Bergara. Their Ridgeback model checks a lot of boxes.

 

[just browsing]

Which Tikka model did you start with? What magazine are you using? Nice rig BTW.

Just a regular old T3 action. Actually started out as a .308 action and I sourced the mag bolt from here. Short action bolt stop.

Atlasworx shroud and bolt handle. 28” Hawk Hill M24, GAP 4S chamber. Mag pictured is an Accurate Mag with MPA extension but I have since switched to the 419 extensions to give me 10 round capacity.

Again, function and performance does not suffer in any way compared to my full customs. Just have way less invested. Good luck!

 

[Jackomason]

Just a thought but for all the money you're looking at putting into this you might consider a Bergara. Their Ridgeback model checks a lot of boxes.

Yeah I'd definitely add bergara to the list, I have a B14 ridge but I've played with nearly all their modles and can say that the premier series is well worth the money. That being said tikka T3 > Bergara B14. Now custom tikka vs premier... dont know that I could pick.

one would be exactly what you want and one would be factory + warranty.

I'm kinda digging those T3 builds though, probably shouldn't look too long at that....

 

[benchmstr]

Man, I love the PRC cartridges.

I have a 300 prc and want to build a 6.5....but I am super nervous it will turn into a reload only cartridge and defeat the purpose of it.

Bench

 

[Smitty192]

Yeah I'd definitely add bergara to the list, I have a B14 ridge but I've played with nearly all their modles and can say that the premier series is well worth the money. That being said tikka T3 > Bergara B14. Now custom tikka vs premier... dont know that I could pick.

one would be exactly what you want and one would be factory + warranty.

I'm kinda digging those T3 builds though, probably shouldn't look too long at that....

This forum is a great source for information and a great place to rid one of any extra money that may be laying around.

 

[wade2big]

Just a regular old T3 action. Actually started out as a .308 action and I sourced the mag bolt from here. Short action bolt stop.

Atlasworx shroud and bolt handle. 28” Hawk Hill M24, GAP 4S chamber. Mag pictured is an Accurate Mag with MPA extension but I have since switched to the 419 extensions to give me 10 round capacity.

Again, function and performance does not suffer in any way compared to my full customs. Just have way less invested. Good luck!

Ok so a short mag Tikka receiver would be the way to go. I have been considering a 7 SAUM as my first cartridge to handload for. Thanks for thr help.

 

[Smitty192]

Just a regular old T3 action. Actually started out as a .308 action and I sourced the mag bolt from here. Short action bolt stop.

Atlasworx shroud and bolt handle. 28” Hawk Hill M24, GAP 4S chamber. Mag pictured is an Accurate Mag with MPA extension but I have since switched to the 419 extensions to give me 10 round capacity.

Again, function and performance does not suffer in any way compared to my full customs. Just have way less invested. Good luck!

Very nice. Did you keep the factory trigger? No issue going with the T3 over the T3X?
That's a really nice looking rifle.

 

[wade2big]

@just browsing
Which bullet do you load and what kind of speed are you getting loading these to work with a short action? I always see long action recommended for 6.5 prc and 7 saum

 

[just browsing]

There is no discernible difference between T3/T3x/CTR actions other than differences in coatings and the extra rail screw for mirage covers on the CTR. The actions themselves are virtually the same in terms of stock inlets, triggers, aftermarket compatibility, etc.

I am shooting 150 SMKs around 3050 in the GAP chamber (.081 freebore) from a 28” barrel. This is the middle velocity node for this combination in my experience.

With regards to round choice:

1. I believe GAP 4S is your best bet if wanting to shoot heavy bullets while restricted by SA mag length. SAUM case has enough horsepower to overcome the heavies being seated deep in the case, and you're able to load to the lands as needed.

2. If you’re going PRC with the standard .188 throat, you are better off on an intermediate/long action unless you are planning to shoot 143/147 ELDs exclusively. Secant ogive bullets (Hybrids, SMK, etc.) will need to be jumped 50-60 thou plus if you’re restricted by SA mag length. Otherwise, see if you’re able to go to the shorter .130 freebore as this will open up more options in terms of bullet choice, though the GAP 4S still gives you the more flexibility yet.

3. 7 SAUM is a different animal if wanting to feed it from a SA. I know it’s possible to get 180s in the mid 28s, though I’m not sure what length barrel is needed, what kind of case/barrel life results, or anything else. My gut feeling is that the 6.5s are going to be a superior short action cartridge for no other reason than the velocity difference.

 

[Steel head]

In a SAMMI 7 saum Sierra 175’s jam at almost maximum mag length.
180 Eldm’s are going to be jumping a fair bit at short action mag lengths but they don’t seem to mind.
With a 28”barrel 2950 with either bullet was pretty easy.

If you really wanna be close to the lands with a 7 saum in a short action a reamer with less free bore is going to be needed.


I was smacking a plate at a mile this morning fairly easily till the fog rolled in jumping 180 eldm’s about 80 thousandths.

 

[Smitty192]

There is no discernible difference between T3/T3x/CTR actions other than differences in coatings and the extra rail screw for mirage covers on the CTR. The actions themselves are virtually the same in terms of stock inlets, triggers, aftermarket compatibility, etc.

I am shooting 150 SMKs around 3050 in the GAP chamber (.081 freebore) from a 28” barrel. This is the middle velocity node for this combination in my experience.

With regards to round choice:

1. I believe GAP 4S is your best bet if wanting to shoot heavy bullets while restricted by SA mag length. SAUM case has enough horsepower to overcome the heavies being seated deep in the case, and you're able to load to the lands as needed.

2. If you’re going PRC with the standard .188 throat, you are better off on an intermediate/long action unless you are planning to shoot 143/147 ELDs exclusively. Secant ogive bullets (Hybrids, SMK, etc.) will need to be jumped 50-60 thou plus if you’re restricted by SA mag length. Otherwise, see if you’re able to go to the shorter .130 freebore as this will open up more options in terms of bullet choice, though the GAP 4S still gives you the more flexibility yet.

3. 7 SAUM is a different animal if wanting to feed it from a SA. I know it’s possible to get 180s in the mid 28s, though I’m not sure what length barrel is needed, what kind of case/barrel life results, or anything else. My gut feeling is that the 6.5s are going to be a superior short action cartridge for no other reason than the velocity difference.

You Sir....are awesome. Thanks for all the information. I really appreciate it.

 

[260284]

Cool thing about Tikkas is McGowen and Carbon Six sell prefits for them. I have two TL3's and an Origin in a hunting rifle. I'd really like a 6.5x47L or a 7-08 carbon prefit for the Origin but Proof is the only option and they don't carry those configurations. McGowen and Carbon Six don't make Origin prefits, IDK why though. There are lots of places that make prefits for the Bighorns but they're pretty much all match configurations. Sometimes it's fun to do a budget build.

After I sold the excess parts off my Tikka donor rifle I paid $300 for the action. And that includes a trigger. McGowen will make a prefit in 6.5PRC for $390. That includes a threaded muzzle. You can choose your twist and a lot of other options. Add $60 for cerakote. Add $145 for fluting. Just a great lower cost option that performs as well as a more expensive custom. Oh and the McGowens shoot. Those groups are at 300yds.

How much torque do you use on your barrels? I am guessing you hold the chassis between your legs to change barrels?

 

[Smitty192]

There is no discernible difference between T3/T3x/CTR actions other than differences in coatings and the extra rail screw for mirage covers on the CTR. The actions themselves are virtually the same in terms of stock inlets, triggers, aftermarket compatibility, etc.

I am shooting 150 SMKs around 3050 in the GAP chamber (.081 freebore) from a 28” barrel. This is the middle velocity node for this combination in my experience.

With regards to round choice:

1. I believe GAP 4S is your best bet if wanting to shoot heavy bullets while restricted by SA mag length. SAUM case has enough horsepower to overcome the heavies being seated deep in the case, and you're able to load to the lands as needed.

2. If you’re going PRC with the standard .188 throat, you are better off on an intermediate/long action unless you are planning to shoot 143/147 ELDs exclusively. Secant ogive bullets (Hybrids, SMK, etc.) will need to be jumped 50-60 thou plus if you’re restricted by SA mag length. Otherwise, see if you’re able to go to the shorter .130 freebore as this will open up more options in terms of bullet choice, though the GAP 4S still gives you the more flexibility yet.

3. 7 SAUM is a different animal if wanting to feed it from a SA. I know it’s possible to get 180s in the mid 28s, though I’m not sure what length barrel is needed, what kind of case/barrel life results, or anything else. My gut feeling is that the 6.5s are going to be a superior short action cartridge for no other reason than the velocity difference.

Did you think it is necessary to remove the radius on the front of the Tikka action before installing a new barrel. The internet is 50/50 on it.

 

[hereinaz]

I think your selling the tikka short. No way could I do a savage, had a bunch and done to one now. I've had 2 tikkas done, both actions were trued but the smith said when he started to true up action, the first skim pass removed finish evenly. Meaning the receiver face, lug abutments, and bolt face were damn near perfect. I had used both actions and bolt lugs showed even 90% wear on finish. My smith lapped lugs in and removed radius at front of action so I could use commonly available 1.2" shank barrels. My tikka is just as smooth as my high mileage aiae's and deadline, smoother than my at and barely smoother than my origin(properly timed cocking piece). Tikka factory trigger is perfect for anything except br use, and as ruebenski mentioned, a krg bravo is cheap and a solid stock. I reiterate, if you go short action and want to use 147 or 156, use a .130 freebore reamer.

Tikka are very good. Personally, i would go with a Rem 700 platform for flexibility. If Tikka aftermarket has the stuff you want, it is as good as the entry level custom actions. And, Tikka does have more aftermarket stuff coming online though.

 

[6brshooter]

Did you think it is necessary to remove the radius on the front of the Tikka action before installing a new barrel. The internet is 50/50 on it.

It let's you use more commonly available 1.2 shank barrels and saves smith from recontouring blank.

 

[260284]

Did you think it is necessary to remove the radius on the front of the Tikka action before installing a new barrel. The internet is 50/50 on it.

The only issue with removing the radius is you cannot use a shouldered prefit after.