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6mm Creedmoor Large Rifle vs Small Rifle Primers??

kgoltz

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 31, 2019
148
31
Hey all, just wondering if anybody has any input on 6 Creed with Large Rifle Primers vs Small Rifle primers. What are the advantages or disadvantages of either? One handles more pressure??
Just bought some crap Remington 100 gr. factory ammo to break the barrel in with and they have large rifle primers and bought some Lapua brass to reload after barrel break-in and they are small rifle primers!
 
you can run SRP brass harder and get more life out of it. Some guns will crater primers bad and some will blank primers if running hard. I would recommend getting the firing pin bushed if you are going to run SRP. I have gone back to LRP brass as I am not going to run that hard and am not going to bush the firing pin. Peterson makes good brass in both LRP and SRP.
 
Brass life ends when the case head expands enough for it to no longer hold a primer. Small primer leaves more material in the case head to resist that. You can step on the pressure a bit harder with a small primer case head but if you do that then it might only last as long as the large primer does. You cant have your cake and eat it too.

Small primer could put more force on the primer though and if youre shooting a rifle with a large firing pin that additional force may be enough to pop the primer. The first couple minutes of this video go over that aspect. So if you have a sloppy factory action then the small primer brass might not be a good match.
 
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Recently bought some Berger match ammo in 6mm CM. They use Lapua brass with small rifle primer pockets. The way I figured it the cost is about 23 cents more per round than just buying new Lapua brass. I haven't got out to shoot it yet, hoping it shoots decent. If so it will be a good way to end up with some fire formed Lapua brass. I use lapua brass in 6.5 CM with SRP and I've lost count of how many reloads they have. I haven't had any loose primer pockets yet. I anneal and thus far I have only had a hand full of split necks.
 
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Brass life ends when the case head expands enough for it to no longer hold a primer. Small primer leaves more material in the case head to resist that. You can step on the pressure a bit harder with a small primer case head but if you do that then it might only last as long as the large primer does. You cant have your cake and eat it too.

Small primer could put more force on the primer though and if youre shooting a rifle with a large firing pin that additional force may be enough to pop the primer. The first couple minutes of this video go over that aspect. So if you have a sloppy factory action then the small primer brass might not be a good match.

Great Video!! Thanks
 
Small primer could put more force on the primer though and if youre shooting a rifle with a large firing pin that additional force may be enough to pop the primer.

So if you have a sloppy factory action then the small primer brass might not be a good match.

The size of the firing isn't the issue. It's the size of the FP hole in the bolt face, in relation to the FP itself. Like Greg talks about in the 1st of his video. It's a matter of the primer cup being allowed to flow backward thru the gap. Cratering usually happens at 1st. Then as time goes by, the hole smooths out (widens a tad) allowing the crater to become a pierced. Of course we all know, it doesn't take many blanked primers and you've roached the bolt face with hot gases.

Small FP's (.062" +/-), , Large (.073" +/-). I like to see a difference of no more than .002" between the FP and the FP hole, regardless if it's large or small FP. I've had RPR's, Remmy's, Sav's and Thompsons all come thru my shop with some blanking SP's and others not. I've seen RPR's with as much as .010" difference in pin to hole size. Those, of course, blanked SP's, regardless of primer brand. One particular rifle was even blanking factory loads.

I done tests back in the middle 90's with a ton BR rifles that required bushing the bolt to prevent blanking. There is a direct relation between headspace and FP spring weight, too. Back then, there were some running inert (at rest) FP springs. Nowadays, everyone is running cock on close (striker type). Since most bump their shoulder back .002". The case jumps forward when the FP hits, before it is pushed back. With inert FP's, the spring has already withdrawn the pin before this happens, allowing the primer cup to flow quicker. Cock on close (sticker) types don't have the spring tension rearward, allowing the FP to stay in contact with the indentation longer, preventing it from flowing as readily. A long headspaced chamber gives the case a much father 'stopping' point before it is force rearward. Which can allow for the FP to already start its withdraw sooner. Blanked primers are more noticeable in long HS's chambers when using factory loads or when FL sizing back to saami specs.

Not really sure what you're referring to when you say "...sloppy action..." If you mean not locking up tight. Maybe. But, would lean towards my headspace comments, too.

Sorry for the ramble. To the OP:
SP pockets tend not to 'loosen up' as quickly as LP.
 
Small primer could put more force on the primer though and if youre shooting a rifle with a large firing pin that additional force may be enough to pop the primer.

So if you have a sloppy factory action then the small primer brass might not be a good match.

The size of the firing isn't the issue. It's the size of the FP hole in the bolt face, in relation to the FP itself. Like Greg talks about in the 1st of his video. It's a matter of the primer cup being allowed to flow backward thru the gap. Cratering usually happens at 1st. Then as time goes by, the hole smooths out (widens a tad) allowing the crater to become a pierced. Of course we all know, it doesn't take many blanked primers and you've roached the bolt face with hot gases.

Small FP's (.062" +/-), , Large (.073" +/-). I like to see a difference of no more than .002" between the FP and the FP hole, regardless if it's large or small FP. I've had RPR's, Remmy's, Sav's and Thompsons all come thru my shop with some blanking SP's and others not. I've seen RPR's with as much as .010" difference in pin to hole size. It, of course, blanked SP's, regardless of primer brand. That particular rifle was even blanking factory loads, with LP's.

I done tests back in the middle 90's with a ton BR rifles that required bushing the bolt to prevent blanking. There is a direct relation between headspace and FP spring weight, too. Back then, there were some running inert (at rest) FP springs. Nowadays, everyone is running cock on close (striker type). Since most bump their shoulder back .002". The case jumps forward when the FP hits, before it is pushed back. With inert FP's, the spring has already withdrawn the pin before this happens, allowing the primer cup to flow quicker. Cock on close (sticker) types don't have the spring tension rearward, allowing the FP to stay in contact with the indentation longer, preventing it from flowing as readily. A long headspaced chamber gives the case a much father 'stopping' point before it is force rearward. Which can allow for the FP to already start its withdraw sooner. Blanked primers are more noticeable in long HS's chambers when using factory loads or when FL sizing back to saami specs.

Not really sure what you're referring to when you say "...sloppy action..." If you mean not locking up tight. Maybe. But, would lean towards my headspace comments, too.

Sorry for the ramble. To the OP:
SP pockets tend not to 'loosen up' as quickly as LP.
 
I'd be interested in reading any updates to this as I'm looking at going from Lapua 6.5CM LRP to SRP simply out of large primer scarcity for manbun which seems to be worsening not improving. If I can make the switch and not lose performance then I just ditch LRP b/c I can get all the SRP I want. I run 44.1 Staball with Lapua LRP and really any flavor LRP has worked magically well from Winchester to both Federals to CCI 200. Hoping a switch to SRP won't throw me any curve balls.
 
I had some hangfires in the cold (5-30*F) when using staball with SRP and 105 bullets. With 112/115s or any extruded powder, no issues at all. Never tried large primers, since I couldn't get them and needed the stash for 8x57.