8.6 Blackout - where to buy the dies to form the brass from the 6.5 CM?
- Thread starter Flyperk
- Start date
Ok, here's what I do.
Use only Hornady 6.5 creedmoor cases, when sized there will be minimal neck turning needed.
Cut off the 6.5 case to just above the bottom of the nec.
Anneal the case if you can.
Then just lube it up and size it in an 8.6 sizing die. There are several out there, I am using a Lee.
Go slow and raise it several times, slowly.
Get an 8.6 case gauge if you can to verify proper sizing and whether you might need to neck trim. With Hornady cases, you usually don't.
Trim to proper length and viola, a perfectly converted 8.6 case.
This works very well for me.
Use only Hornady 6.5 creedmoor cases, when sized there will be minimal neck turning needed.
Cut off the 6.5 case to just above the bottom of the nec.
Anneal the case if you can.
Then just lube it up and size it in an 8.6 sizing die. There are several out there, I am using a Lee.
Go slow and raise it several times, slowly.
Get an 8.6 case gauge if you can to verify proper sizing and whether you might need to neck trim. With Hornady cases, you usually don't.
Trim to proper length and viola, a perfectly converted 8.6 case.
This works very well for me.
Thank you for that info. I watched a couple of YouTube videos and they seem to have been doing pretty much the same. I just wasn’t sure what dies worked best and where you found them. I have “jigs” for the 223 to 300 and the 338 to 510 but haven’t seen it for the 6.5 to 8.6 yet.
Thanks again for the info, I really appreciate the help. Any suggestions on loads for both sub and super?
Thanks again for the info, I really appreciate the help. Any suggestions on loads for both sub and super?
I make my own roughing die in my lathe.
It's specially made for the task of roughing.
Here it's capable of taking a crusty old 270 Win to 8.6 Blackout in one pass, one second to form, Without lube, but the brsss gets hot, forming so a light spray with Hornady One Shot, is all that's needed.
No dented shoulders, just perfect shoulders every time and fast.
Trim to length in mill/ collet setup, very fast trim time one second.
Use a Lee FL die to form.
Neck turn in lathe with ground carbide 30° angle tool, with sharp 5 to 8° radius on neck/ shoulder junction to eliminate donuts.
Anneal
Resize in Lee FL die, then check shoulder bump, this gauge is 510 Whisper, gauge made with reamer...on a micro flat with
drop indicator...but ypu get the idea.
Even hybrid cases 6.8X 51 formed to 8.6 Blackout, for extra velocity for bolt guns, and supers. If ya like 2800 fps for 160 gr Barnes, or 2000 fps for 300 gr Berger Match bullet....to go with your brass cased subs.
Any brass case can be formed from a larger case. The closer the better, but one can almost never run out of brass cases.
Some are more difficult, even requiring an extractor cut to be made. Like 308 to 6 mm ARC, or 308 to 6mm Dasher, etc.
It's specially made for the task of roughing.
Here it's capable of taking a crusty old 270 Win to 8.6 Blackout in one pass, one second to form, Without lube, but the brsss gets hot, forming so a light spray with Hornady One Shot, is all that's needed.
No dented shoulders, just perfect shoulders every time and fast.
Trim to length in mill/ collet setup, very fast trim time one second.
Use a Lee FL die to form.
Neck turn in lathe with ground carbide 30° angle tool, with sharp 5 to 8° radius on neck/ shoulder junction to eliminate donuts.
Anneal
Resize in Lee FL die, then check shoulder bump, this gauge is 510 Whisper, gauge made with reamer...on a micro flat with
drop indicator...but ypu get the idea.
Even hybrid cases 6.8X 51 formed to 8.6 Blackout, for extra velocity for bolt guns, and supers. If ya like 2800 fps for 160 gr Barnes, or 2000 fps for 300 gr Berger Match bullet....to go with your brass cased subs.
Any brass case can be formed from a larger case. The closer the better, but one can almost never run out of brass cases.
Some are more difficult, even requiring an extractor cut to be made. Like 308 to 6 mm ARC, or 308 to 6mm Dasher, etc.
Attachments
I have posted a ton of information on the 8.6 blackout.
I have both a 3 twist and a 6.5 twist.
The early Faxon 3 twist was borescoped and had horrible rifling, that should have never left the factory, and shoots groups over 3.3 to over 6.5 times larger than the 6.5 twist, with subs and supers. Accuracy was horrible.
With the 6.5 twist one can shoot all bullets lead and copper as fast as the case will allow, without fear of bullets coming apart inside of the muzzle device, and destroying the chronograph bayonet, as mine did with a Faxon site recommended load.
The 6.5 twist stabilizes all bullets including the 350 gr Maker in subsonic mode or almost 1700 fps for some super knockdown power, not limited to Makers 1050 fps max velocity for this bullet...absolutely no worries about bullet blow up...plus excellent accuracy.
Makes it a dual purpose cartridge like the 300 blackout, subs and supers, the case max pressure limits your velocity not the over spinning the bullet with the 3 twist.
The 6.5 twist gives you safety, high velocity if wanted, and 3 to 6 times better accuracy with every bullet I've tried, in subs or supers.
Something to check out before putting alot of time and money trying to get the 3 twist to shoot accurately...like I did.
I have retired my 3 twist, it offered nothing but trouble.
I have both a 3 twist and a 6.5 twist.
The early Faxon 3 twist was borescoped and had horrible rifling, that should have never left the factory, and shoots groups over 3.3 to over 6.5 times larger than the 6.5 twist, with subs and supers. Accuracy was horrible.
With the 6.5 twist one can shoot all bullets lead and copper as fast as the case will allow, without fear of bullets coming apart inside of the muzzle device, and destroying the chronograph bayonet, as mine did with a Faxon site recommended load.
The 6.5 twist stabilizes all bullets including the 350 gr Maker in subsonic mode or almost 1700 fps for some super knockdown power, not limited to Makers 1050 fps max velocity for this bullet...absolutely no worries about bullet blow up...plus excellent accuracy.
Makes it a dual purpose cartridge like the 300 blackout, subs and supers, the case max pressure limits your velocity not the over spinning the bullet with the 3 twist.
The 6.5 twist gives you safety, high velocity if wanted, and 3 to 6 times better accuracy with every bullet I've tried, in subs or supers.
Something to check out before putting alot of time and money trying to get the 3 twist to shoot accurately...like I did.
I have retired my 3 twist, it offered nothing but trouble.
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