80% lower 7.62 knights sr-25 upper?

This^^^ Unfortunately KAC wont mount to a DPMS spec 308 lower. Do you have a SR25 Upper that your wanting to mount on a lower? The SR25 has a slant cut upper receiver similar to the Armalite pattern whereas the DPMS has a round cut more similar to a standard AR15.

There may be other differences in KAC 308 uppers that I dont know of too? Maybe someone that owns one can chime in.
 
Genesis makes a kac compatible 80 %, never milled one- there was a while they had good reviews and a while they didn't, proceed with caution or just default to a dpms compatible 80% like everyone else...
 
woow. FYI, I work in this field, and we have spent two years testing all sorts of uppers and lowers, as well as making parts and barrels for M110, etc. There is no really great answer other than KAC on KAC. it is not just where the pins fit, but all sorts of other matters like lower parts kits. The lower is easier than the upper. The upper is very hard to get right, due to a number of off-standard measurements on the Knights.

The next best answer is LMT. LMT parts are pretty much interchangeable with KAC. LMT 308 MWS lower is a great choice. Mega is the next best choice, but it is no longer made.

The Genesis story is two stories. The older Genesis 308 mated nicely with the SR25. Those were outsourced. Not sure which shop made those 80%'rs or the uppers, but the ones made in '16 and early '17 are great, in my opinion. The new ones will fit a KAC, if you ask. The pins are different size, so if you go with Genesis, be sure to ask for KAC pin size. He also sells the jig. Last I looked, it is all in the white, so you will need to Cerekote or something. You will not find an anodizer, most likely. The Genesis guy insourced his CNC work a year back, and the lower fits the SR25 upper... well... it fits. It is not the best fit aesthetically, but it will work as a lower.
 
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While I haven't finished a genesis I have milled ar15's and ar10's both billet and forged. You do not need a jig as long as you have a mill, a dial indicator, a vise and some 1-2-3 blocks....

C'mon is it even worth posting this? The cost of a quality mill supersedes the cost all the 80 lowers, jigs, "tooling," and the parts I or anyone else will put into them. I would love to have a mill and would enjoy the project way more, but time and money does not allow at this time.
 
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C'mon is it even worth posting this? The cost of a quality mill supersedes the cost all the 80 lowers, jigs, "tooling," and the parts I or anyone else will put into them. I would love to have a mill and would enjoy the project way more, but time and money does not allow at this time.
Yeah actually it is, I have heard more than one person on the internet with access to a mill wonder about which jig to buy (and my answer is it's always a waste of money).... most jigs are about 1/5 of the price of a POS harbor freight mini mill that anybody can fit anywhere and you try to call me out while missing the forest for the tree's..... I get it mills are spendy so is tooling but it's a hobby just like shooting or reloading , just because you cant/dont want to play or have the time to play-others do and my answer comes from that frame of reference, beside's invest in some machines and some skills and other stuff gets cheaper like:

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/home-made-billet-ar.106169/

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/sons-nrl-22-build.6918274/
 
Yes, mini-mills lack rigidity and z-axis (up/down) travel but plenty of people have taken a "0" percent forging to 100% on a mini mill. It takes a whole lot less to mill an 80%'s trigger pocket than taking a 0 %forging to 80%. I would take a mini over a drillpress/crossslide vise/jig or a router/ jig option any day.

Something like my son's chassis or this 98 mauser's AICS clone chassis could also be made on a mini it would just take a lot longer.Kinda like the difference between using a lee hand tool and a dillon, either give you the freedom of not relying on store bought ammo, a mini or a Bridgeport let you not be as beholding to store bought parts- one is just more convenient than the other depending on circumstances ( I wouldn't take a dillon on a safari, I would't want to solely rely on the hand tool for all my ammo, I would hate to make parts on a production scale on a mini,and I wouln't put a bridgeport on an apartment)

1428096945_zpsa9cde177.jpg
 
Yes, mini-mills lack rigidity and z-axis (up/down) travel but plenty of people have taken a "0" percent forging to 100% on a mini mill. It takes a whole lot less to mill an 80%'s trigger pocket than taking a 0 %forging to 80%. I would take a mini over a drillpress/crossslide vise/jig or a router/ jig option any day.

Something like my son's chassis or this 98 mauser's AICS clone chassis could also be made on a mini it would just take a lot longer.Kinda like the difference between using a lee hand tool and a dillon, either give you the freedom of not relying on store bought ammo, a mini or a Bridgeport let you not be as beholding to store bought parts- one is just more convenient than the other depending on circumstances ( I wouldn't take a dillon on a safari, I would't want to solely rely on the hand tool for all my ammo, I would hate to make parts on a production scale on a mini,and I wouln't put a bridgeport on an apartment)

View attachment 7017293

@skinnj1 that AICS mauser is cool as hell, did you make that? Do you have a link with more details on that?
 
@JSchell1309

Yes I made it- I believe that it was posted in a thread that got "lost" over the years. The picture was posted in this thread to emphasize the options open to someone with tools in support of my position that it is better to buy tools than jigs where possible and what could be done with a mill. Since this is 80% thread in the semi-auto section let's have the aics mauser discussion in another thread or via PM