8mm 1950s Bulgarian Surp – Save For Reloading or Sell?

[GS455]

Several years ago I picked up a 2,400 rds of 8mm Bulgy milsurp. Unfortunately, as warned, it’s pretty much all click-bang, hang-fire due to poor primers. The insides of the cases is pretty much clean and for the most part all fire.

I spoke to a buddy that reloads and as a cost analysis for 2,400 rounds: New Siera Matchking FMJ bullets @ .52/ea will run $1,248 and if he figures 1lb of powder will fill 150rds @ $52/lb = $832. So bullets and powder for 2,400rd will approximate $2,080. Sounds spendy. Does that sound right?

 

[MK20]

You can't reload these as they are probably berdan primed.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

You can't reload these as they are probably berdan primed.

This. Double check by taking a fired case and a flashlight, and look down the case into the primer hole. If there are 2 holes, you'll need berdan primers and non-standard equipment. One hole is what you're hoping to see, but you probably wont. It's probably also corrosive.

The cost estimate isn't too far off, but doesn't account for the primer, which is likely your problem. You're better off just starting from scratch with new cases and all.

New S&B ammo can be had from S&G for $1.10 each, which is probably the easiest way to solve this problem.

 

[GS455]

Probably a bit more background indicated ......

I don't reload now but have a brand new 550 (still in box) and a bunch that goes with it including a crap-ton of accessories, tools, primers, powder, NATO and some other bullets.

I know the corrosive, berdan primers are spent, which is why I bring this up. I've been saving my calibers of reloadable brass, including 8mm (and buckets of 30-06), for years.

I figure, maybe when I retire, I might start reloading as a new hobby and maybe get more into precision shooting, etc.

Obviously, there are no specs on the powder, so best transferring over into other 8mm brass, I'd think. With all that in mind, assuming that powder still burns, I guess I'm wondering if it's all worth keeping in the Ammo Fort as a couple $grand$ in reusable components?

Or, for example, are Bulgy bullets known to be crap and saving/reusing that old powder a moronic idea? Back in the day I used to read how some reloaders would break down the 1950s 8mm Yugo for bullets & powder and reload into other boxer brass. I have a lot of that stuff, too, and happen to think it's some of the most accurate 8mm milsurp I have. Typically, only one hang-fire in 40 or 50 rds wi HiPower Wolfe bolt spring.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

I guess I'm wondering if it's all worth keeping in the Ammo Fort as a couple $grand$ in reusable components?

That's up to you, and what you're going to use it for. My mk3 is at best a 3 MOA gun and I shoot it at steel occasionally with surplus german ammo, so like hell would I spend the time to break down 2,400 rounds just to reload them unless it was >25% hangfires. And even then, I'd probably just pull the bullets and toss the rest. It's not worth my time to troubleshoot if it was the primer or the powder, and try to pull down and make old powder work. It might be to you, if you value money more than your time.

They're milsurp rifle rounds, and the bulgarian stuff was middle pack IIRC. Don't expect the pull down bullets to outdo new match bullets, but for just throwing them at steel at reasonable ranges with iron sights, it would be good enough for me.

 

[GS455]

That's up to you, and what you're going to use it for. My mk3 is at best a 3 MOA gun and I shoot it at steel occasionally with surplus german ammo, so like hell would I spend the time to break down 2,400 rounds just to reload them unless it was >25% hangfires. And even then, I'd probably just pull the bullets and toss the rest. It's not worth my time to troubleshoot if it was the primer or the powder, and try to pull down and make old powder work. It might be to you, if you value money more than your time.

They're milsurp rifle rounds, and the bulgarian stuff was middle pack IIRC. Don't expect the pull down bullets to outdo new match bullets, but for just throwing them at steel at reasonable ranges with iron sights, it would be good enough for me.

A guy on another forum claimed the primers were fine but it's the powder that's bad.

I'm not a reloader but this doesn't seem to make sense to me. Firing pin hits the primer and nothing happens but a click? The primer went off (silently) and is good but the powder is just waiting to burn?

I suppose I could confirm this by pulling a bunch of bullets, emptying out the powder and then seeing what happens when I fire a primed empty case.

I do have plenty of other 8mm to keep feeding my old war horses for years. It's just a thought about reloading down the road one day and saving a few bucks by already having a crap ton of bullets and powder. And by reloading them by hand in, boxer-brass, I guess I'm wondering if I'd end up with a better product than what was spit out in the 1950s by Bulgarian ammo factories.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

A guy on another forum claimed the primers were fine but it's the powder that's bad.

Could be. Corrosive primers/ammo actually keep really well if stored properly. The primer could fire fine but might not be lighting the powder as well as it should because the powder or it's coating has degraded. That's why I said troubleshoot powder and primer - If it's the primer, you're back to needing new cases and primers, then reworking a load with the surplus powder...

I suppose I could confirm this by pulling a bunch of bullets emptying out the powder and then seeing what happens when I fire a primed empty case.

I'd pull a couple and replace the powder with a new, appropriate powder and (low-middle to middle) charge load for the surplus bullet weight. If they go boom good, then it's the powder. I think it's easier to ID small hangfires when there is a little recoil.

I do have plenty of other 8mm to keep feeding my old war horses for years. It's just a thought about reloading down the road one day and saving a few bucks by already having a crap ton of bullets and powder. And by reloading them by hand in, boxer-brass, I guess I'm wondering if I'd end up with a better product than what was spit out in the 1950s by Bulgarian ammo factories.

Is the juice is worth the squeeze, is up to you. Might make for a good gun related project if you have spare time to eat up.

 

[GS455]

There was no pulling the bullet with pliers and a vice. So unable to fire the primer . I cut the head off. Dry stick powder with that sweet combloc chemical smell. The inside of the case and the bottom of the boat tail bullet is immaculate.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Pliers and a vice is the wrong tool. Either spend $10 on a bullet pulling hammer (and hate your life when you actually try to use it) or do it properly with a hornady cam lock puller die and reloading press.

 

[GS455]

Yeah, I found that out the hard way. I just wanted to rip one open and see what was inside.

 

[FLIGHT762]

I did this a few years ago. I had 200+ US issue M-1906 30/06 ball rounds that were made by US Cartridge Co, loaded in 1918. They were hang fires. I used a proper collet bullet puller, pulled the bullets and did a powder weight check on about 10 cartridges. Took the average powder weight charge and noted it down. I pulled all of the bullets & recovered the powder into a container.

I had a bunch of once fired WWII 30/06 M2 ball cases. F/L sized the cases & put new N/C primers in. Loaded them up with the recovered bullets & proper powder weight. Test fired them in my 1903A3. Worked perfectly.

If you're going to take this on, you need to get the proper tools (a good collet puller, not a hammer type puller) and recover the bullets & powder, noting the powder charge weights and reload the bullets & powder into boxer primed cases.

I reload for 12+ Rifle cartridges so I have all of the tools on hand needed to do this.

Since you don't reload it may not be worth your time & money. 2400 rds. is going to take some time to disassemble.

I'm assuming the ammo is brass cased. If they re steel cases, they may be more difficult to pull the bullets.

If you decide to sell the ammo, sell it to someone for the components with the caveat of the hang fires, this may be your best choice.

 

[GS455]

Well this was interesting. I know little to nothing about reloading. My buddy was able to conjure up 10 rounds for me that we fired at the range today. He noted that the powder contents per round was very inconsistent. Averaged about 42 grains with up to a 2-grain difference between all.

Against 1950s Yugo the elevation was about the same but groups moved 4-6 inches to the right. It always perplexed me how different ammo could group left to right . I would typically think it understandable to see elevation and groups size variations but windage differences ? I’m sure someone smarter than me can explain but perhaps, I think, related to barrel harmonics reacting differently to bullet weight and charge strength causing barrels to whip in any number of directions depending upon pressure points and the like.

Anyway, here’s something interesting to have observed. He reloaded pulled bullets and powder into once-fired commercial PPU brass. We had one complete neck separation and several cracks along the base of the necks. The Bulgy bullets are magnetic as were the copper washed casings from which they were pulled. Might there have been something improper in his loads. Steel core bullets in brass a no-no?

BTW we did fire several of the original primed cases and they just sort of puffed some smoke with a sizzle. No actual pop/bangs. So, if there was some debate about whether the primers were bad vs. the powder it’s safe to say powder was fine and the primers are rotten/too week to ignite powder.