A NOOB re-loader wants to avoid damaging a bolt action rifle

[ralfabco]

I have started buying quality reloading components a little bit at a time. Rock chucker, case cleaner, and the .338 LM Lapua brass closeout from Midway. I probably will need another year or two before I begin reloading. A gunsmith posted in some thread (can't find it) where he mentioned he receives several ruined bolt action rifles due to re-loaders screwing up. What are a few big potential issues which can lead to ruining your hi dollar bolt action rifle ? I don't want to ruin the rifle.

1). I am not looking to produce hot loads. The 'book' claims you don't need to push it to the max to produce excellent results.
2). I understand you start with the minimum load (use a reloading guide) and move up incrementally.

Is it bad Ogive measurements that may damage the rifle chamber ?

 

[Deleted member 113831]

The number one thing I see new reloaders fail to do, that could be disasterous, is fail to trim their brass.

Keep brass trimmed, use appropriate powders and primers, weigh your charges and seat bullets to factory length.

That is pretty much it. Your loads will be safe. All the other stuff comes after you have learned the basic process.

 

[Tikka595II]

^^^^^^^^what he said
At the moment it looks like you are on the right path asking good questions. For starters if it is available in your area I would recommend a NRA basic reloading course while this will not teach you the precision side of things it should give you a understanding of safe practices to follow through this Learning Journey.

 

[wpgk58]

I have started buying quality reloading components a little bit at a time. Rock chucker, case cleaner, and the .338 LM Lapua brass closeout from Midway. I probably will need another year or two before I begin reloading. A gunsmith posted in some thread (can't find it) where he mentioned he receives several ruined bolt action rifles due to re-loaders screwing up. What are a few big potential issues which can lead to ruining your hi dollar bolt action rifle ? I don't want to ruin the rifle.

1). I am not looking to produce hot loads. The 'book' claims you don't need to push it to the max to produce excellent results.
2). I understand you start with the minimum load (use a reloading guide) and move up incrementally.

Is it bad Ogive measurements that may damage the rifle chamber ?

ABC's of Reloading
Modern Reloading
Get both and read taking notes. These will be your general guide to getting started.
Go to local club or range and see if there is a Reloading Group there. Join if they do. Try and find a mentor.
Reloading Mentors of North America (Facebook) has people from all over the country will to help out new reloaders.
NRA Basic Reloading class. It is a solid basic class to get you started.
Take your time and know what you are doing each step, and learn the steps in the proper sequence. (Example: does not make sense to powder charge before you prime)
I would recommend starting with a Straight Walled Case caliber. This will get you familiar with the process, and then you can add the steps required for bottle neck cases.
Have fun. I love spending time reloading and experimenting almost as much as I love shooting.

 

[Sentinal Dad]

Can I jump in this too? Also new to reloading.

I set up my bullet seating die too low. the shoulders on the 6.5 Creedmoor are flattened out but everything else looks good. They are very stiff in rifle. Are these safe to use or should pull bullets and trash?

 

[wpgk58]

I would break it down and toss the case. With a damaged case there is a chance neck separation, which renders the gun unusable until removed, which might require a smith.
I always approach the bullet seating way high and lower as needed to meet specs desired. It is easier than pulling the bullet and starting again if too short. If you are using a standard seating die then turn the die in, in small increments. Maybe 1/8 turn, then measure, then 1/8 turn and measure. Patience with setting the dies up will pay off in the long run.
Happy Loading

 

[Sentinal Dad]

I would break it down and toss the case. With a damaged case there is a chance neck separation, which renders the gun unusable until removed, which might require a smith.
I always approach the bullet seating way high and lower as needed to meet specs desired. It is easier than pulling the bullet and starting again if too short. If you are using a standard seating die then turn the die in, in small increments. Maybe 1/8 turn, then measure, then 1/8 turn and measure. Patience with setting the dies up will pay off in the long run.
Happy Loading

Thanks for confirming. Thats what I figured. Wanted an expert opinion.

 

[DocRDS]

OK complete ignoramus question: How does one seat bullets to factory depth--aka where does one find the measurements needed to do this correctly? (My google fu is weak and my caution is strong).

My understanding is that it just a matter of matching the listed COAL, but what may be obvious to the experienced, may not be to the novice.

 

[Deleted member 113831]

Can I jump in this too? Also new to reloading.

I set up my bullet seating die too low. the shoulders on the 6.5 Creedmoor are flattened out but everything else looks good. They are very stiff in rifle. Are these safe to use or should pull bullets and trash?

You crushed your case and bulged it. Depending on the severity, it might be possible to resize them again and save them. It might not, but it costs nothing to try. You would also need the proper headspace comparator to measure the result.

To set up sizing die: Raise ram (with shell holder installed) and screw down die to touch the shell holder. This is a good place to start. You may have to turn it down an additional 1/16-1/8 turn, but 9 times out of 10, touching is good.

To set up sizing die: Place sized case in shell holder and raise ram. Screw seating die down until you just feel a little resistance. This is the die either touching the shoulder, or the case neck engaging the crimp built into the die. Then back off just enough that it doesn't touch. Lock the die down. Then, with the bullet seater screwed all the way out, run a cartridge and bullet up into the die. Screw the seater down incrementally, raising and lowering the ram, until the bullet is seated to desired length over all length.

 

[wpgk58]

OK complete ignoramus question: How does one seat bullets to factory depth--aka where does one find the measurements needed to do this correctly? (My google fu is weak and my caution is strong).

My understanding is that it just a matter of matching the listed COAL, but what may be obvious to the experienced, may not be to the novice.

Never a dumb question.
When you look in the loading manuals for your powder and how much to use, the beginning section usually has the SAAMI specs for the caliber. The COAL in the manual is your goal. Make a couple of Dumb Rounds (ones with no primer or powder) and check them by trying to load them into your gun. If they go in smoothly and the bolt closes with little or no effort then you are successful. If either stiff bolt or not able to chamber properly occur, then start over after carefully measuring the failure. It may take a few tries, but time better spent now than getting to the range and realizing they all won't chamber (not that I have ever had this happen...)

 

[Deleted member 113831]

OK complete ignoramus question: How does one seat bullets to factory depth--aka where does one find the measurements needed to do this correctly? (My google fu is weak and my caution is strong).

My understanding is that it just a matter of matching the listed COAL, but what may be obvious to the experienced, may not be to the novice.

It is listed in the reloading manual for that bullet.

 

[Steel head]

Visually check every powder charge, I look twice.

Only have one powder out at a time and absolutely ensure it’s the powder you are going to use.

Not long ago I didn’t pay attention and almost loaded 60.1 grains of R16 instead of the desired R26 because I didn’t fully look at the jug.
It probably wouldn’t have blown up but certainly would have been massively over pressure.

 

[wpgk58]

Visually check every powder charge, I look twice.

Only have one powder out at a time and absolutely ensure it’s the powder you are going to use.

Not long ago I didn’t pay attention and almost loaded 60.1 grains of R16 instead of the desired R26 because I didn’t fully look at the jug.
It probably wouldn’t have blown up but certainly would have been massively over pressure.

I have done almost the same thing. So now I empty the powder hopper at the end of a session, which forces me to pay attention. I also review the computer log for the load and wear a headlight so that I can inspect each case for powder. The things you learn from your mistakes. And the things you can learn from others to avoid making those same mistakes. Happy Loading

 

[ShadowBear]

Don't rely on one source of loading data; check several for a "sanity check". Personally, I like loaddata.com- it's inexpensive, and you get so see a variety of results from various contributors. I have found errors in reloading manuals; don't ask me how I found them, but I can confirm I still have all my fingers.....

 

[Sentinal Dad]

All who replied to these posts. I appreciate the feedback that you guys have given. Some of these threads get a bit condescending. Some of us without the long term experience really want to learn from those that do. So thanks!

 

[The Muffin Man]

Lots of good advice in this thread. I was admittedly that guy that didn't trim their brass when I first started; now I know a lot of guys hate it but as I've gotten smoother it's almost become relaxing seeing it removing all the excess material and making everything nice and uniform. Maybe one day I'll win the lottery and the Giraud will be mine, but until then I'm fine doing it manually as it's a little bit of much needed exercise.
One additional point on the powder, check, double check, then triple check the powder charge weight. I started with an automatic dispenser and there has been more then a few times I fat fingered an extra grain or 3 by hitting the incorrect button right above it on the keypad. Depending on what you are loading, it may not be that noticeable as well.

 

[Boatninja]

I have started buying quality reloading components a little bit at a time. Rock chucker, case cleaner, and the .338 LM Lapua brass closeout from Midway. I probably will need another year or two before I begin reloading. A gunsmith posted in some thread (can't find it) where he mentioned he receives several ruined bolt action rifles due to re-loaders screwing up. What are a few big potential issues which can lead to ruining your hi dollar bolt action rifle ? I don't want to ruin the rifle.

1). I am not looking to produce hot loads. The 'book' claims you don't need to push it to the max to produce excellent results.
2). I understand you start with the minimum load (use a reloading guide) and move up incrementally.

Is it bad Ogive measurements that may damage the rifle chamber ?

One thing my reloading mentor (now deceased) pounded into me is more speed does not necessarily mean more accuracy. Something else I might add is have a thick skin, every time I think I'm getting somewhere I post something that seems at the time to be reasonable but a few replies make me feel real STUPID. I'm starting to think all my questions should be posted on The Stupid Marksmanship Thread first.