-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Accuracy International Competition Triggers
- Thread starter Mile High Shooting
- Start date
Well, this has been a long time coming. There was talk of a comp trigger way back when my AWSM was new. Glad to see it's finally coming true.
So, the trigger body is compatible with legacy AW and AWM rifles? It's just the new shoe won't fit? So, why don't they offer the trigger body with an option for either a curved shoe, flat shoe, or legacy shoe (hopefully flat and curved)? It just bolts on right? Why then is it an extra $47 and I get a part I can't use?
So, the trigger body is compatible with legacy AW and AWM rifles? It's just the new shoe won't fit? So, why don't they offer the trigger body with an option for either a curved shoe, flat shoe, or legacy shoe (hopefully flat and curved)? It just bolts on right? Why then is it an extra $47 and I get a part I can't use?
If they do that the cost of the shoe would be incorporated into the price and those who don't need a shoe and will be using the shoe from their AT, AX, or AXMC may be unhappy that they're being forced to buy an extra part which they don't need. Adding an extra item to your shopping cart really shouldn't be that big of a deal.
I like the way they did it because now I can buy the trigger, and both shoes and see which I like.
Are you assuming that the trigger doesn't come with a shoe and that you're supposed to reuse your factory shoe? If that's the case, then I see your point. $395 get's you a trigger with no shoe. That's assuming that this trigger is designed with the same dovetail on the trigger bar that the factory AT, AX, or AXMC trigger. I can't verify it. I know my AWSM trigger is different. Why would you purchase the curved shoe if you already have one?
Just looking at the press release, I'm under the assumption that it does come with a shoe. Spec calls out shoe material. Pic shows a shoe. Description says that the shoe is adjustable. Doesn't say that the "shoe not included". The fact that the "optional" trigger shoe is only for the AW/AWM rifles, says to me that part is unique and not just flat or curved option that may be available to the AT, AX, or AXMC.
I don't have a problem ordering a part that I need specifically for my application. We don't have enough information at this point to determine which is which. It would be a shame if I have to purchase a $50 part that I can't use. What I was trying to say above is price the trigger at $345 and let the customer pick and choose which shoe they want/need to run.
I haven't received mine yet obviously but I was told that no shoe is included. If you have an AT, AX, or AXMC you use the shoe from your OEM trigger. If you have an AI with the built in shoe, you buy the optional shoe.
The dovetail is the same 100%. I'm buying the optional curved shoe because it's a slightly different profile than the OEM AX shoe, and also non grooved. Just to try it.
I apologize if this question has already been asked, but this will work with the "pre-2014" AXs, correct?
The only reason I ask is because the press release states that it is a "drop-in replacement for the AT, AX308 and AXMC". I'm hoping that "AX308" is the pre-2014 AX.
The only reason I ask is because the press release states that it is a "drop-in replacement for the AT, AX308 and AXMC". I'm hoping that "AX308" is the pre-2014 AX.
Here's the rundown:
The new Competition Trigger is a drop in system that utilizes 3 parts from the factory system:
-Clamp plate
-Retention screws (2)
- Original Trigger shoe
There are two optional trigger shoes (curved, flat) that can be purchased separately, although not required for AX/AXMC models.
- The curved shoe has a smooth texture, and the shape is more shallow than a factory shoe (available for pre order).
- The flat shoe is not available for pre order yet, but will be soon.
For AW/AWM models, a new trigger shoe is required. Flat or Curved.
The new Competition Trigger is a drop in system that utilizes 3 parts from the factory system:
-Clamp plate
-Retention screws (2)
- Original Trigger shoe
There are two optional trigger shoes (curved, flat) that can be purchased separately, although not required for AX/AXMC models.
- The curved shoe has a smooth texture, and the shape is more shallow than a factory shoe (available for pre order).
- The flat shoe is not available for pre order yet, but will be soon.
For AW/AWM models, a new trigger shoe is required. Flat or Curved.
Bit of a bummer, as I was hoping to get the new flat or curved shoe to try along with the Comp trigger for $395. But I really like the factory trigger shoe (shape, width, texture) so I'm good with keeping on using it.
Thanks again Mile High!
Thanks again Mile High!
I can understand this for those of us with older AWs that wanted to upgrade to the adjustable shoe, but I have never once thought any of my AIs had bad trigger pulls on them. the stadard AI trigger is adjustable plenty. Im guessing there was a demand since they spent time to make this, but really?
I would definitely buy an AI AXMC / AT action by itself... By the time this AI MPA chassis comes for my AT.
Currently sitting in boxes:
2 - spare AT barrels
1 - Complete AT chassis
1 - AT 20 moa high rail
1 - AT spigot
1 - AI trigger if the comp triggers come to Aust.
And a whole bag of other bits and pieces from the rifle that have been changed out or replaced.
All I'll need is the action
to build another complete AT... Not going to spend another $6000 AUD to do that.
Tom Irwin or any AI exec, if you see this... And it is an option, let me know please.
Currently sitting in boxes:
2 - spare AT barrels
1 - Complete AT chassis
1 - AT 20 moa high rail
1 - AT spigot
1 - AI trigger if the comp triggers come to Aust.
And a whole bag of other bits and pieces from the rifle that have been changed out or replaced.
All I'll need is the action
to build another complete AT... Not going to spend another $6000 AUD to do that.Tom Irwin or any AI exec, if you see this... And it is an option, let me know please.
Last edited:
So part #22-085 on your website isn't really AW/AWM specific? It's just a way to remind us that we have to buy something? If I'm understanding you correctly, there are only two shoe's available (curved or flat) for the trigger.
The standard AI Trigger is a good one and serves its purpose. For those of us who also compete with an AI platform, a lighter trigger is beneficial and useful. AI has gotten bigger in the PRS game, even sponsoring a match that sold out in an hour. So there is definitely a demand.
I agree, I have competed with them for 15 years on just about every system they have made, but im just with
RoterJager on this one. Though once all you beta testers start bragging on it, im sure ill have to get one also....
Last edited:
The one nice thing about this Trigger is that they took a proven design and just adapted it. I’m really surprised another company never decided to do it.
Correct. We were working off our initial bit of info that was slightly ambiguous. It will all be corrected online.
When do you expect pre orders to start going out? Starting to see some ppl online that have them. Thanks.
- Feb 16, 2017
- 478
- 427
Came out of shoulder surgery and got emailed the MHSA link for the trigger from a buddy. My nurse thought the boner I was sporting was in her honor, I should have showed her the link and told her not to flatter herself ha. I can’t wait to get my hands on one, or be able to hold my junk with my dominant hand again, I imagine I’m looking forward to each event with an equal amount of enthusiasm.
Everyone is busy shooting them instead. Lol. All seriousness, I haven’t met or talked to someone that didn’t like them.
And instruction sheet should have came with the trigger.
Installation is pretty easy:
Take off the skins around the grip panels (and don't forget the 2 bolts that screw in from the grip side otherwise you'll wonder why they are not coming off once you took off the bolts from the side),
Undo the 2 bolts that hold the plate which holds the current trigger in place.
Remove the trigger and holding plate.
Undo the nut holding the trigger shoe and slide it off
Separate the old trigger from the holding plate, then put the new one back in it's place
Put the trigger shoe back on
Put the trigger and plate back into position then fasten the 2 big retaining bolts
Test the trigger and adjust the shoe position and any other settings on the takeup / trigger weight / pull type you want
Test it a few times to make sure you like how you have it adjusted
Put the skins back on and you are done.
They are very nice.
I left mine with a bit of a long takeup on the first stage so I'd have some good feeling on it.
From the factory without adjustment, the takeup on the first stage is 8 ounces to the wall and then 1.5 pounds to set off the trigger.
Take off the skins around the grip panels (and don't forget the 2 bolts that screw in from the grip side otherwise you'll wonder why they are not coming off once you took off the bolts from the side),
Undo the 2 bolts that hold the plate which holds the current trigger in place.
Remove the trigger and holding plate.
Undo the nut holding the trigger shoe and slide it off
Separate the old trigger from the holding plate, then put the new one back in it's place
Put the trigger shoe back on
Put the trigger and plate back into position then fasten the 2 big retaining bolts
Test the trigger and adjust the shoe position and any other settings on the takeup / trigger weight / pull type you want
Test it a few times to make sure you like how you have it adjusted
Put the skins back on and you are done.
They are very nice.
I left mine with a bit of a long takeup on the first stage so I'd have some good feeling on it.
From the factory without adjustment, the takeup on the first stage is 8 ounces to the wall and then 1.5 pounds to set off the trigger.
Thanks, guys.
These triggers do look good...
I also bought some curved trigger shoes, for the heck of it. Apparently there are left and right - handed trigger shoes, which suits my mirror - image AT308s!
I don't have my Lyman Electronic Trigger Gauge yet, so I can't take any measurements. I do have a set of NRA weights and some washers (for weights less than 500 grams).
I have some questions on my methodology in adjusting the individual stage weights, and the overall pull weight.
Let's say I want to set the Total Trigger Pull Weight at 500 grams, and I want the two stages at 250 grams each (50/50).
To do so, do I:
1. REMOVE SCREW #4 + SPRING + BALL (1st Stage Pull Weight) to isolate 2nd Stage Pull Weight Tension (now a Single Stage Trigger dependent on SCREW #5)
2. ADJUST SCREW #5 (2nd Stage Pull Weight, but now in effect a 1 - stage trigger) to get a trigger break at 250 grams
3. REINSTALL AND ADJUST SCREW #4 + SPRING + BALL to get a trigger break 500 grams (back to being a 2 - stage trigger)
Or, instead, do I:
1. ADJUST SCREW #4 to get a trigger break at 500 grams
2. ADJUST SCREW #5 afterwards to find that 250 gram 2nd stage wall.
I suspect getting that 50/50 distribution isn't as easy, given what I assume are different spring tensions and different tension curves. It may not be a purely additive affair, and I'll have to fiddle with both screws numerous times to hit the sweet spot.
Lastly, what's the recommended way of setting this up as a 1 - stage trigger?
Any recommendations would be appreciated...
These triggers do look good...
I also bought some curved trigger shoes, for the heck of it. Apparently there are left and right - handed trigger shoes, which suits my mirror - image AT308s!
I don't have my Lyman Electronic Trigger Gauge yet, so I can't take any measurements. I do have a set of NRA weights and some washers (for weights less than 500 grams).
I have some questions on my methodology in adjusting the individual stage weights, and the overall pull weight.
Let's say I want to set the Total Trigger Pull Weight at 500 grams, and I want the two stages at 250 grams each (50/50).
To do so, do I:
1. REMOVE SCREW #4 + SPRING + BALL (1st Stage Pull Weight) to isolate 2nd Stage Pull Weight Tension (now a Single Stage Trigger dependent on SCREW #5)
2. ADJUST SCREW #5 (2nd Stage Pull Weight, but now in effect a 1 - stage trigger) to get a trigger break at 250 grams
3. REINSTALL AND ADJUST SCREW #4 + SPRING + BALL to get a trigger break 500 grams (back to being a 2 - stage trigger)
Or, instead, do I:
1. ADJUST SCREW #4 to get a trigger break at 500 grams
2. ADJUST SCREW #5 afterwards to find that 250 gram 2nd stage wall.
I suspect getting that 50/50 distribution isn't as easy, given what I assume are different spring tensions and different tension curves. It may not be a purely additive affair, and I'll have to fiddle with both screws numerous times to hit the sweet spot.
Lastly, what's the recommended way of setting this up as a 1 - stage trigger?
Any recommendations would be appreciated...
Last edited:
I set my trigger as a single stage by just taking up all the 1st stage travel until I can feel no more give before the trigger engages the sear. I then re-installed trigger and tested. As is from the factory, the pull is extremely light even with both 1st and 2nd stage pull weight set to max. I eventually swapped the lighter factory installed spring for the heavier one that was included. I then set the 2nd stage trigger pull weight to the lightest and used only the 1st stage pull weight to adjust the total pull weight.
Last edited:
View attachment 6946959
View attachment 6946958
The standard triggers just feel so much more bombproof overall
I’m glad I’m not the only one who felt this way.
I’m sure the comp triggers are plenty durable. I just preferred the overall ruggedness and break on the factory trigger.
After approx 1200 rounds I've also decided to switch back to the stock trigger that Moon worked over.
Just got off of the phone with Mile high. Still no lead time or updates on the flat trigger shoes. Meh, I think it would be a novel thing to have when they are available.
I've got mixed feelings about this comp trigger though, as I am sure others do too. Been running it for a bit and while I like it, but only at it's max of 2 pounds. Anything less and it just doesn't feel right to me, but I've personally massaged my factory triggers a good bit too. Tried it in a post-2014 AX 260, AXMC 338LM and am going to try it in an AW as soon as I get around to ordering another trigger shoe (hence the above call).
I don't see any accuracy difference from it on paper, prone, off-hand, tripod or barricade so that's a good sign. It's sort of growing on me though.
I've got mixed feelings about this comp trigger though, as I am sure others do too. Been running it for a bit and while I like it, but only at it's max of 2 pounds. Anything less and it just doesn't feel right to me, but I've personally massaged my factory triggers a good bit too. Tried it in a post-2014 AX 260, AXMC 338LM and am going to try it in an AW as soon as I get around to ordering another trigger shoe (hence the above call).
I don't see any accuracy difference from it on paper, prone, off-hand, tripod or barricade so that's a good sign. It's sort of growing on me though.
I had to play with mine out in the desert for about 4 hours to get it dialed in just right. The adjustment possibilities are almost too much honestly. I am happy now though my first stage is about a half of lb, tactile wall then boom about a half a lb second stage with 0 over travel.
Nay, unless there are issues then it shouldn't be long. This is a prototype - it may not look like this (rounded shoe pad).
