Group Buys Aftermarket AI "Obsession" Chassis - Group Buy

samb300

GCP Rifle Co. Accuracy Obsession Vision Products
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 22, 2013
    2,617
    5,270
    Milwaukee, WI
    Raw_Chassis_IG2.PNG


    Alright guys...it's been almost a year in the making, and I'm finally ready to get a group buy going for the aftermarket chassis I designed for the AI AW/AT/AX actions. Check out the monster thread HERE if you want to reference the design process up to this point.

    I'll cut to the chase and give the pertinent details on the chassis, and the price and ordering information:

    - Cost of the kit: $1200
    - Deposit: $600 (remaining $600 not due until kit is ready to ship)
    - Estimated delivery timeline: End of June, 2020
    - Kit will include: Chassis, Internal Weight, NV Bridge and Co-Linear 20MOA Picatinny Rail, all required hardware and installation tools
    - Choice of Cerakote color to match AI Sage Green, Pale Brown, Dark Earth, or Black (these are best mixes, as AI colors are proprietary)

    - Chassis system for the current AI short action rifle system - AW, AT, AX
    - User will need to de-bond the action and buttstock of their rifle, then clean, prep, and re-bond them to the new chassis. This can be done in an afternoon, all the special tools and supplies are included in the kit, and instructions with a video will be provided. (I have done this 5 times on my own, so I think I have the hang of it). The process is absolutely reversible if you ever wish to go back to the factory chassis.
    - Chassis is designed to use the existing grip panels and AI factory buttstock (either fixed or folding AT or AX versions).

    Another update that I forget to mention (which I will add to the original post #1 in the group buy).

    AX USERS PLEASE NOTE: If you're de-bonding an AX and going to the Obsession chassis, you'll need a couple parts from Mile High. This is because the chassis is designed for AW magazines, NOT the AX magazines. It's subtle, but the mag catch and spring are different on the AT and AX because of the AX's angled magwell. The "pin" that goes through the chassis and holds the spring and catch in place are the same on both rifles, so you don't need to order a new one. Here are the part numbers, I think both were around $40 total from Mile High:

    - AI P/N 3234 mag lever

    - AI P/N 0568 spring

    1580444444520.png


    1580444490625.png


    1580444576962.png


    CHASSIS
    - 7075-T6 aluminum, machined from one piece
    - 35 oz
    - 8x M-Lok slots on bottom and both sides
    - Integral anti-rotation QD mounts
    - Flared magwell accepts standard AW magazines
    - 16" flat bottom forend with integral RRS-spec dovetail, lowers bore axis on a bag by ~1" compared to an AT or AX.
    - Clearance for 1.25" dia straight-taper barrel (1.35" dia channel)

    INTERNAL WEIGHT
    - Black Nitride steel
    - 30oz
    - One piece for increased forend rigidity
    - Bolts into the forend from the top

    NV BRIDGE + PIC RAIL
    - Both are 7075-T6 aluminum
    - 5oz combined weight
    - Attaches via 6x 6-32 screws that go into the forend (improved design compared to prototype)
    - 20MOA picatinny rail is co-linear with the AI factory "tall" action rail
    - NV bridge is reversible and can be positioned front to back on chassis depending on preference

    I will take orders and start putting together the numbers to make a batch at the machine shop. I am planning on this being a made-to-order deal, so there may or may not be extra kits when the Group Buy is fulfilled. If you want one, your best bet is to order through this now, as I will be unable to make these in small quantities in the future. Full disclosure: the $600 deposit will be used solely to help pay for the up front machining costs, coating, etc. I'm a one-man show on these and have already sunk a considerable amount of resources into paying for machine fixturing and programming.

    PLEASE let any friends you may know that aren't on SH that this Group Buy is going on! I'll be posting on IG and FB as well, but I know some guys aren't big into social media.

    Thank you for your continued interest in this project!

    Sincerely,

    Samuel Burns
    Accuracy Obsession, LLC
    [email protected]

    P.S. to any mods, this Group Buy was discussed and OK'd by Frank :)
     
    Last edited:
    Here are some additional pics. The metal chassis shown is the prototype, which has the older style of attaching the NV bridge, and only had 7 M-Lok slots. The new production design has the improved NV mount and a longer forend.
    6702A97F-D357-4F97-AB1C-3144F4DFEE9C.jpeg

    Chassis compared to an AT.

    3EFA607B-CCF8-4253-8FF3-9D3FCE3E16E6.jpeg

    Chassis compared to an AX.

    5CD1371A-20C4-4700-9965-CB96D7F71D01.jpeg

    Prototype Cerakoted in AI Sage Green.

    B378FDCD-BCDB-41E0-BAFF-653B32C21E0F.jpeg

    Final assembled 3D print of the production version. Metal machined prototype in the front.

    3286FA99-A3E2-41B8-9673-4A16991AD843.jpeg

    Barricade practice on a test AT with an AX buttstock.
     
    Anybody on the fence about this, don't be. Super easy to debond and rebond to the new chassis. Completely changes the dynamic of how an AI runs in match settings. This is the single most prolific upgrade you can do to an AI to help with improving your "off your belly" shooting. With that said, the rifle still maintains its "tank like bomb proof" AI feel. I'd take this fucker to war tomorrow. If anyone has questions for someone who doesnt have a single dollar to gain from this, feel free to pm me.
     
    What is the cutoff date for pre order?
    I don’t really have a firm cutoff. I think I can put in an order with the machine shop and firm up the quantity closer to when they’re going to start making chips. They only need a couple days to source raw materials; the longest wait will be queue time.
     
    Here are the detailed instructions, step-by-step for de-bonding an AI, prepping it, and bonding it back together with the Obsession chassis. Let me know if you have any questions or comments! I'm hoping this reassures anyone who has already pre-ordered the chassis that the installation isn't anything too scary. I'm also hoping that anyone on the fence about buying the chassis because of the de-bonding process will see these and have the confidence in my design and the instructions for doing it on your own.

    1) De-bonding the buttstock


    2) De-bonding the action


    3) Bonding the action, chassis, and buttstock together


    Thanks,

    Sam
     
    Last edited:
    Alright guys, I have the formal Purchase Order in with the machine shop. Unfortunately the lead time is now longer than we had discussed a few weeks ago during the initial quotation. Current machining lead time is 14-16 weeks, and I will need 3-4 weeks after that for anodizing, nitriding, cerakoting, and packaging. That would put the delivery estimate at the end of June, 2020.

    I was obviously hoping for a shorter time frame, but I'm at the mercy of the machine shop that did the protoypes and have the programming and tooling. They are a great shop, but busy. I will do my best to keep in touch with them - and you guys - to keep an accurate representation of the timeline. I absolutely don't want to provide any false promises, but also don't want to just let things slip by weeks/months as they often do.

    The quantity of chassis kits is still open on the P.O., so the pre-order will continue until I have to firm that number so they can order raw material. I'm still hoping to get some more people on board, so if you or anyone you know is on the fence, shoot me a PM if you have any questions!

    Thanks again,

    Sam
     
    I'm in! If anyone is thinking about getting an AI and still debating the AT vs AX this chassis can put an AT ahead of an AX for less money IMO.

    MHS AX $7535.00 (black, 24" 6.5 creed no muzzle threads)
    MHS AT $4167.50 (black, 24" 6.5 creed with non folder)
    MHS AX Buttstock $904.20
    AO Chassis $1200.00

    Still have $1263.30 left over with the AT all decked out, it's a no brainier for me, lol. Mile High may even give you discount on the Buttstock if its not being installed by them.

    Jake
     
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    I'm in! If anyone is thinking about getting an AI and still debating the AT vs AX this chassis can put an AT ahead of an AX for less money IMO.

    MHS AX $7535.00 (black, 24" 6.5 creed no muzzle threads)
    MHS AT $4167.50 (black, 24" 6.5 creed with non folder)
    MHS AX Buttstock $904.20
    AO Chassis $1200.00

    Still have $1263.30 left over with the AT all decked out, it's a no brainier for me, lol. Mile High may even give you discount on the Buttstock if its not being installed by them.

    Jake
    Thanks for your business!

    My goal was always to have an AT + AO chassis + AX buttstock be equal to or less than the cost of a factory AX. Looks like the numbers do work out that way, especially with a fixed AT if the plan is to get an AX buttstock.
     
    I'm in! If anyone is thinking about getting an AI and still debating the AT vs AX this chassis can put an AT ahead of an AX for less money IMO.

    MHS AX $7535.00 (black, 24" 6.5 creed no muzzle threads)
    MHS AT $4167.50 (black, 24" 6.5 creed with non folder)
    MHS AX Buttstock $904.20
    AO Chassis $1200.00

    Still have $1263.30 left over with the AT all decked out, it's a no brainier for me, lol. Mile High may even give you discount on the Buttstock if its not being installed by them.

    Jake

    I get your point, but those prices are way off from what you should be paying. The margins between AX and AT have become a lot closer as of late.
     
    Last edited:
    Yea, you will def get under that on an AT. Even new, and especially from Mike at MH.

    Which to me still doesn't make sense to purchase an AT new to upgrade to the AX stock. I have been scouring to try and find a good deal on an AT and there hasnt been any since end of 2019 or the occasional demo/used that pops up at vendors.

    The prices on AX's right now are insane. Purchase a demo/used AX and drop it in an AO.
     
    Yeah I haven't called Mike and talked prices yet, those are just off their website. If I can get an AT even cheaper then that's even better.

    Jake

    $3500 non folder

    $4k folder

    $6300 AX.

    Those prices should be within $100 or so of what you should pay for a brand new AI if you call around.
     
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    Hey guys, I was talking with a customer about colors, and totally had a brain fart. Right now I've got a local cerakote applicator working on:
    - AI Dark Earth
    - AI Pale Brown
    - AI Sage Green

    However, the AW and AT "green" skins really aren't the same as Sage Green. For those of you that have a "green" AT and are planning on doing the AO chassis upgrade, would you like that color as an option? Since the aftermarket AX buttstock is only available in Sage Green, P.B., and Black, I figured everyone would want the Sage Green. But I want to provide the best color match possible to anyone keeping their "green" AT buttstock and pistol grip skins.

    Please let me know! If you have put in a pre-order, or are thinking about getting in on it, I'd like to hear if you want "green" or Sage Green.

    Thanks!!!

    Sam
     
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    Another update that I forget to mention (which I will add to the original post #1 in the group buy).

    AX USERS PLEASE NOTE: If you're de-bonding an AX and going to the Obsession chassis, you'll need a couple parts from Mile High. This is because the chassis is designed for AW magazines, NOT the AX magazines. It's subtle, but the mag catch and spring are different on the AT and AX because of the AX's angled magwell. The "pin" that goes through the chassis and holds the spring and catch in place are the same on both rifles, so you don't need to order a new one. Here are the part numbers, I think both were around $40 total from Mile High:

    - AI P/N 3234 mag lever

    - AI P/N 0568 spring
     
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    Hey guys, I was talking with a customer about colors, and totally had a brain fart. Right now I've got a local cerakote applicator working on:
    - AI Dark Earth
    - AI Pale Brown
    - AI Sage Green

    However, the AW and AT "green" skins really aren't the same as Sage Green. For those of you that have a "green" AT and are planning on doing the AO chassis upgrade, would you like that color as an option? Since the aftermarket AX buttstock is only available in Sage Green, P.B., and Black, I figured everyone would want the Sage Green. But I want to provide the best color match possible to anyone keeping their "green" AT buttstock and pistol grip skins.

    Please let me know! If you have put in a pre-order, or are thinking about getting in on it, I'd like to hear if you want "green" or Sage Green.

    Thanks!!!

    Sam

    For any that are interested I have a AT with the AX buttstock. So it shows the two different greens. It’s barely noticeable. But I’m hitting the range today. And I’ll snap a pic while I’m there and post it when I get back to where I have service.
     
    So, I just debonded/removed my AT stock and put the AX on.

    It fits tight and with two screws holding it, is there really a need to re-bond it just to take it back off when the AO chassis arives?

    Seems pretty sturdy and I’m not gonna be hanging on the rifle and doing pull-ups.
     
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    So, I just debonded/removed my AT stock and put the AX on.

    It fits tight and with two screws holding it, is there really a need to re-bond it just to take it back off when the AO chassis arives?

    Seems pretty sturdy and I’m not gonna be hanging on the rifle and doing pull-ups.
    The thing to check is the “yaw” left to right. The screws hold it tight from the top and bottom, but there is clearance designed into it for the epoxy on the sides and the front face. I personally have seen on all the buttstocks I’ve done that there is wiggle L to R without epoxy, even with the screws cranked down tight. Since the epoxy fills in the side pockets of the chassis “tang”, then squirts out the front and goes in between the face of the buttstock tube and the chassis, it eliminates all movement.

    Personally I’d do it (and have), even when taking it apart again is imminent. The worst thing would be getting wiggle if the screws loosen during a match, just because taking the grip backstrap off is a pain and you’d need to take the skins off to re-tighten it.
     
    I'd be concerned with the screws too, it'd suck to shear one of them off in the buttstock or mess up the threads somehow. They look like they're 4mm screws so I don't think it'd take much with the leverage you can get on the buttstock.

    Jake
     
    I'd be concerned with the screws too, it'd suck to shear one of them off in the buttstock or mess up the threads somehow. They look like they're 4mm screws so I don't think it'd take much with the leverage you can get on the buttstock.

    Jake
    They're M5x.8 flat head screws, so realistically there's not much of a chance they'll get messed up. The head uses a 3mm Allen though, so those can get rounded during removal or installation. I am including a pair of new screws with the AO chassis for that reason.
     
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    They're M5x.8 flat head screws, so realistically there's not much of a chance they'll get messed up. The head uses a 3mm Allen though, so those can get rounded during removal or installation. I am including a pair of new screws with the AO chassis for that reason.

    AI really needs to use something different for the Allens. Except for the barrel change bolt, everything else is super easy to strip.

    Especially the pic rail screws on action.
     
    That's the problem with flat head screws, the Allen key size is small relative to the thread size. I'm right there with ya, I've stripped everything out except for the Quick-Loc and the accessory screws, since those all use 4mm Allen keys. The 2.5mm and 3mm head screws all get stripped quite easily.

    I have bins of metric screws from all the AI related stuff I've been working on, so any time I take a screw out, I chuck it and replace it with a new one. Cheap insurance to help avoid it getting stripped out.
     
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    That's the problem with flat head screws, the Allen key size is small relative to the thread size. I'm right there with ya, I've stripped everything out except for the Quick-Loc and the accessory screws since those all use 4mm Allen keys. The 2.5mm and 3mm head screws all get stripped quite easily.

    I have bins of metric screws from all the AI related stuff I've been working on, so any time I take a screw out, I chuck it and replace it with a new one. Cheap insurance to help avoid it getting stripped out.

    Yup, countersunk stuff can be a pain in the butt. I've dealt with a TON of super small stuff on RC Cars over the years and honestly, it's not the screws that are the problem its cheapo Allen wrenches that round-off and then screw up the hex on the screw. If you deal with a lot of them a good set of hex drivers is well worth the money IMO

    These are the best I've seen, they make them for the smaller size up to 3mm I think?

    Jake
     
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