Any input on the aluminum action rods for changing AR barrels? Part of me says they would be fine for a barrel or two a year, the other part says just get the steel ones for 20 bucks more each.
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That is a valid point.Aluminum is probably fine for installing barrel nuts and muzzle devices to typical torque values. But good luck when you stumble across that one motherfucker of an upper that was put together by a gorilla with a breaker bar and one of those big bottles of red Loctite.
Get steel tools.
I've been using one for a while now from Real Avid, and it's pretty damn nice. Haven't had any issues and it's plenty strong. If you torque something hard enough to damage it, you're going to damn near crack the receiver and break the barrel threads off the upper...Any input on the aluminum action rods for changing AR barrels? Part of me says they would be fine for a barrel or two a year, the other part says just get the steel ones for 20 bucks more each.
I come from a hotrod background... I have always had 450+ HP daily drivers and toys. Hell, I've still got my 600+ RWHP/1,100+ RWTQ 6.7 Cummins that I bought new in 2007, and started building when it had 2,000 miles on the clock. It's not a matter of displacement envy, it's just a matter of what I'm used to. And the 3.6 V6 (while exponentially better than the 3.8 V6) is still a gutless wonder for something that has a tow-rating of 7,000+ lbs. Had I waited, I would have gotten the 4cyl. turbo diesel (upgrading turbo diesels for big power is easy), but that option wasn't available for a whole year after I bought mine. I was an early purchaser in Feb/March 2020. Only engine option was the 3.6 V6 at that time. I'm considering a supercharger or turbo for it to give it some extra oomph, but it might be cheaper to do a junkyard 6.4 SRT swap than what most super/turbo kits cost these days.Good thing I don't have displacement envy. I still have an 03 Rubicon on 33's with the straight 6.