Im just getting into PRS shooting. I have a vortex razer gen 2, 4.5x27x56 on order. Im looking at a spuhr mount for it. I currently have a tikka ctr in 6.5cm with a 20 moa base. The SP-4001 1.18" high rings will fit perfectly. I was thinking that I want this scope and rings to last and potentially go on another gun that I get. Is it worth considering a 1.35" or 1.5" high Spuhr mount so I can run it on a gun with AI rails or even a ar10? Or will It just look goofy? Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Rifle Scopes Am I crazy to get high rings so my scope will work with any rifle I get down the road
- Thread starter Sokam101
- Start date
I would much rather deal with the potential headache of needing a different scope mount for a gun I don’t have, than the definite headache of having an awful cheek - or worse, chin - weld on a gun I do.
I swap a Razor G2 between multiple rifles, including a two bolts and a couple AR uppers, via a high QD mount. The high mount is needed in order to get it to fit on everything, but it works just fine for me (adjustable cheek pieces on everything helps or course, but you probably already have those). Can't afford to put $1,600 glass on every rifle at the same time but I can afford $1,600 glass on one rifle at a time with a great QD mount to swap between them 
When i was younger and much more malleable that course might well have sufficed.....now that i'm less flexible and a significantly less tolerant, i don't think it would work satisfactorily for me any longer.
Not saying that you couldn't adapt, people always amaze......shooting offset scope mounts and various contortions, that said, If you're just getting into the sport then optimizing fit would likely facilitate your development (probably true for all).
Not saying that you couldn't adapt, people always amaze......shooting offset scope mounts and various contortions, that said, If you're just getting into the sport then optimizing fit would likely facilitate your development (probably true for all).
Yes that would be crazy 
Ok maybe not crazy but there are probably better ways to go about it IMO. Get the rings you need for the rifle you have. If you want to move it around put low rings on it and get risers to make it fit you. Don't waste your time with QD. You will be adjusting to fit different rails, it sucks for moving from gun to gun. Get some high quality rings.
Ok maybe not crazy but there are probably better ways to go about it IMO. Get the rings you need for the rifle you have. If you want to move it around put low rings on it and get risers to make it fit you. Don't waste your time with QD. You will be adjusting to fit different rails, it sucks for moving from gun to gun. Get some high quality rings.
Get rings that will give you proper cheek weld. If you buy quality rings, you can always sell them and get most of your money back. Then you can buy an identical pair a year later for another rifle/scope you picked up. Or you can just throw them in a box and save them for the next project.
But don't go too high or you're more likely to get shot in the head. An objective academic paper that illustrates my point.
But don't go too high or you're more likely to get shot in the head. An objective academic paper that illustrates my point.
Lot of posters here prefer high head position. Likely makes sense for some games. Higher scopes very slightly increase the effect of canting the rifle. Lot of people here deny that then prove with math that the difference is very small. Which actually proves it exists but is not likely to be perceived by most.
High scope position slightly flattens perceived trajectory curve. Cheek weld becomes an issue unless you have adjustable comb. To me a rifle or shotgun becomes less instinctive to point the further the line of sight moves from the bore. But most folks rely on aiming a rifle and shoot stationary targets.
So basically, nothing wrong with it if it suits you. You might actually prefer it.
High scope position slightly flattens perceived trajectory curve. Cheek weld becomes an issue unless you have adjustable comb. To me a rifle or shotgun becomes less instinctive to point the further the line of sight moves from the bore. But most folks rely on aiming a rifle and shoot stationary targets.
So basically, nothing wrong with it if it suits you. You might actually prefer it.
Personally, if I’m going to run an optic with a large objective and plan on mounting it to a rifle with a continuous rail like on an AR platform, I’ll go for the lowest solution that will work for that rifle. If your objective lens will clear the rail, it will be good to go on any other rifle system that may only have a rail over the receiver. My gas gun stocks don’t have an adjustable comb so having higher rings would mess with my cheek weld.
This also makes loophole setups a little more forgiving, the more height over bore you have the further back you will need to be to make that work.
It is a matter of personal preference at the end of the day, and situation specific...if you are trying to shoot elr targets and have a lot of incline in your rail for example then the lowest ring configuration may have your muzzle showing up in your sight picture...higher rings and an adj. comb will work better. Get the scope dimensions from the manufacturer and figure out what rings are going to be suited best for your specific application.
This also makes loophole setups a little more forgiving, the more height over bore you have the further back you will need to be to make that work.
It is a matter of personal preference at the end of the day, and situation specific...if you are trying to shoot elr targets and have a lot of incline in your rail for example then the lowest ring configuration may have your muzzle showing up in your sight picture...higher rings and an adj. comb will work better. Get the scope dimensions from the manufacturer and figure out what rings are going to be suited best for your specific application.
Good point, I've totally gotten that with just a 25MOA rail and low rings on a rifle with a 26" barrel. Weirdly annoying, esp at low power.
Thanks so much for all the advice. Im guessing I should go with something that fits my rifle right now and sell it down the road if I need something different.
What is the best way to build up my cheek rest?
My tikka ctr currently is just a hunting stock and doing the eyes closed test It could use a quarter of an inch higher on the stock.
What is the best way to build up my cheek rest?
My tikka ctr currently is just a hunting stock and doing the eyes closed test It could use a quarter of an inch higher on the stock.
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Old school bootleg way is to build up some foam strips on your comb and duct tape them on.
Nicest solution would be having a gunsmith modify your stock for an adjustable comb. Either a flush setup by cutting the stock or an external comb riser.
Most practical route would be to get an adjustable stock or chassis that already has lop spacer and adj comb implemented in the system. Modern modular stock setups are a win/win all around, customize your lop, comb, grip angle, rail/slot options, etc.
This also depends on scope caps and which ones they are because some are bigger than others. Also depends on base height as some are very slim while others have a lot of height.
Triad Tactical - All Triad Stock Packs™ - Triad Tactical Inc
Old school bootleg way is to build up some foam strips on your comb and duct tape them on.
Nicest solution would be having a gunsmith modify your stock for an adjustable comb. Either a flush setup by cutting the stock or an external comb riser.
Most practical route would be to get an adjustable stock or chassis that already has lop spacer and adj comb implemented in the system. Modern modular stock setups are a win/win all around, customize your lop, comb, grip angle, rail/slot options, etc.
I just realized that pic risers are a thing so I could always put that on a ar style rifle.
I don't really want to spend too much money on this gun or stock in 6.5 cm because I just want to learn how to shoot PRS matches then upgrade to a 6mm variant.
Then go duct tape and foam, cheapest of your options. Before you start taping things up, run your bolt all the way back so you know how much clearance you may need.
Years ago I tried that moving scope from rifle to Rifle thing. Like many, I simply couldn't afford multiple quality scopes. At first it wasn't bad but I found that it was more of a hassle than what it was worth. The constant fiddling and adjusting just made it a huge pain in the ass. Ultimately I just bought cheap Scopes to go on my rifles... Tasco, Bushnell, whatever other cheap scope I can find.
While the scops that I put on the other guns we're cheap and did not have the clarity or features I wanted it at least got me shooting those guns.
Regarding rings for your scope height. That's really immaterial these days with adjustable cheek pieces as mentioned above. Find a set of rings that get you enough clearance on all rifles...
Old school foam and duct tape... Not really that old school for those that are too poor to purchase the adjustable cheek pieces. Mine was made from an old mouse pad and standard gray duct tape...
There are always a few that snickered or simply didn't like the color and would voice some type of complaint. My response was typical of the deer don't care the paper doesn't care and neither does the steel... Only the bitches watching a fashion show seem to care
While the scops that I put on the other guns we're cheap and did not have the clarity or features I wanted it at least got me shooting those guns.
Regarding rings for your scope height. That's really immaterial these days with adjustable cheek pieces as mentioned above. Find a set of rings that get you enough clearance on all rifles...
Old school foam and duct tape... Not really that old school for those that are too poor to purchase the adjustable cheek pieces. Mine was made from an old mouse pad and standard gray duct tape...
There are always a few that snickered or simply didn't like the color and would voice some type of complaint. My response was typical of the deer don't care the paper doesn't care and neither does the steel... Only the bitches watching a fashion show seem to care
I'm not one of the extremely experienced and knowledgeable members here...we have some real experts. I have been a long time shotgun clay target competitor, but with age I've recently moved to rifles and love it. So, given that you also seem to be more new than not to this sport (and I may well be wrong), perhaps my experience will resonate with you.
Bottom line is I am running as low of a set of rings as I can and still needed a KMW Loggerhead adjustable comb (cheek piece to rifle guys, I think...comb to stock smiths...I think haha) with extended posts to get a cheek weld on a Viper PST 3-15 x 44 in Leupold Mark IV medium (lowest they make) rings which are .84" to center.
This is on my Rem 700 5R SS Gen II in an HS Precision stock (need to send it to Joe Ducos...his contact info is on KMW's site...for install and he did a super job for a very reasonable price). When I first got this gun I tried to build up the comb with mole skin and electrical tape...but I needed almost 3/4" up, it felt half ass, and I couldn't get the bold out or a cleaning rod in without tearing it off.
At first I doubted myself on how much of a stock fit I needed as I know that clay target shooters, and especially high gun skeet shooters, are absolutely nuts about gun fit. But after I shot it a bit, I just couldn't see how to get really consistent results with my cheek bone just floating somewhere above the comb.
After I got the stock back and the gun put together with proper comb height, my shooting results on targets proved the benefit of a proper fitting stock. This has long been a point of emphasis for shotgunners but it seems (as in I don't firmly know this) that rifle guys have discovered the benefit of a proper fitting stock and a firm and repeatable cheek weld. You can see this in the adjustability of chassis as well as adjustable stocks from Manners, McMillan, and the like.
Now, I have jumped into the deep end and have a 6.5 Creed in a JAE-700 chassis and this chassis appealed to me for many reasons including the easily adjustable comb. And again, I have cranked it up and IMO limited opinion this kind of proper fit pays really big benefits. This gun has the absolutely wonderful ARC rings (just makes leveling a lot easier as the scope doesn't seem to move..or move much...when tightening the rings) with a Leupold Mk V 5-25 x 56 scope.
By the by, one thing I do like about the KMW kit is that much like shotgun comb kits (and all of my shotguns have either adjustable combs or have high Monte Carlo type combs) in that as well as being able to move the comb up/down, there is some side to side adjustment also. For a right handed shooter, this most likely (IME) means moving it to the right just a bit so as to not have to roll your head over to get behind the rib (shotguns) or scope (rifles). In clay target sports, having eyes level is very important as we swing the gun a lot. I have found in rifles its not as necessary but does seem to really improve comfort and makes dropping my head immediately to the right position much easier. I think (that word again) this would be described as making it easier and more repeatable to get your eye pupil directly behind the scope pupil.
The other thing I like very much about the KMW kit is that unlike shotgun comb kits, the posts come out of the removeable comb and not the base stock so you have clear way to get bolt and rod in/out. And Mr. Cross builds them like brick shit houses. Much more robust than on my comp skeet shotguns.
Personally, I would go with the lower rings for the Tika and if you get an AR-10, then get a mount suitable for that type of sporting arms and that style of stance/shooting.
But again, I'm not one of the highly experienced and knowledgeable guys on the Hide.
P.S. - Ok, I really am an idiot and just looked at the Tika CTR and see it has some sort of MC cheek piece and its not even clear how that stock is constructed and if it will accommodate having a KMW kit installed. If that's the case, I would just go for low rings that will get you behind the scope with good weld, if you can. The Leupold Mk IV medium rings at .84" were the lowest I could find in steel. I think I came across some lower rings in aluminum, but can't remember what or where. Best of luck.
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The only reason I use high rings is if a PVS30 is gonna be used. Otherwise it's best to get the ones that fit the application (or the weapon if the obj. is an issue).
Good advice guys! I think an adjustable stock is a necessity I just don't see myself using the gun long term so I want to not destroy the stock.
Should someone new like me jump right to what the pros use? Or should I find something not as expensive. I'm considering the impact precision custom action.
Should someone new like me jump right to what the pros use? Or should I find something not as expensive. I'm considering the impact precision custom action.
I've been known to use closed cell polyethylene foam strips (obtained from packing materials) and some of that self adhering sports wrap stuff from Academy to build up the stock on hunting rifles. The wrap stuff doesn't leave goo on the stock like duct tape can sometimes. Maybe not the best way but it's cheap and effective.
I have gone this route. Most of my rifles are chassis or AR based. I have a couple of hunting rifles with dedicated optics and mounts. And generally, once an optic is on a rifle, it is there to stay.But, having a few scopes that can easily go onto any rifle is very convenient. And, with stocks adjustable for lop and cheap height, as well as cant being as common as they are, there is essentially no down side. Yes, there is a theoretical cant issue, though at cant angles you are likely to be off by, the difference is inconsequential. Beyond that, having mounts that move with scopes is way more simple. I’ve got scopes that are 1”, 30mm, 34mm, and 35mm. But all of the mounting surfaces on my rifles are picatinny. If the scope in its mount will mount to a flat top AR with full length top rail, it will mount to any rifle.
Method to my madness: build a riser out of whatever you can get your hands on, e.g. mouse pads, rubber floor mats, etc., tape it up, and stick it under your stock pack. You can take the stock pack off to clean and your cheek rest will be the same when you put it back on.
Good rings are cheap in the total picture of things....buy the scope you want and the rifle you want and if it needs new rings big fucking deal.
Quality rings are easy to move and recover your investment in so don;t worry about compromising to get a "one size to fit all" arrangement. This is precision shooting and there is little room to get extra high rings just to make sure they will fit a future rifle you don't even have yet. Get the rings that get you the best cheek weld and proper eye height on the rifle you are running now and if you need higher/lower rings "someday" then sell the rings you have if you must to buy new ones that get you the same ergonomics.
VooDoo
Quality rings are easy to move and recover your investment in so don;t worry about compromising to get a "one size to fit all" arrangement. This is precision shooting and there is little room to get extra high rings just to make sure they will fit a future rifle you don't even have yet. Get the rings that get you the best cheek weld and proper eye height on the rifle you are running now and if you need higher/lower rings "someday" then sell the rings you have if you must to buy new ones that get you the same ergonomics.
VooDoo
ARC M10 High (AR height) mount gives a little over a quarter inch clearance on a standard AR rail with a 56mm objective with caps:
And a little over 5/8ths inch clearance on a 25MOA Burris rail on a Howa with factory heavy barrel for the same scope:
The M10 rings in Xtra-Hi are like a tenth of an inch shorter if I recall.
I just use (or will use in the case of the Howa build) an adjustable cheek piece and it's no issue.
And a little over 5/8ths inch clearance on a 25MOA Burris rail on a Howa with factory heavy barrel for the same scope:
The M10 rings in Xtra-Hi are like a tenth of an inch shorter if I recall.
I just use (or will use in the case of the Howa build) an adjustable cheek piece and it's no issue.
I dont really want to upgrade my stock for a rifle I dont plan on keeping long. If I fall in love im going to go with a custom action and 6mm
It really isn't. The mount is supposed to be good to 1 MOA (and damn if it doesn't feel like it) between swaps, so as long as my windage is within a few clicks between these three rails/uppers all I have to do is keep a dope card on my drops between 6.5CM, 6.5G, 6ARC and .223W and I'm good to save about $5k in scopes.
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