So when ammo testing on a new rifle what is everyone’s procedure for doing this? Are you firing X amount of rounds to “season” the barrel to that bullet and lube, and then shooting rounds at 25,50,100,etc? Rinse and repeat with the next brand of ammo?
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Ammo testing procedures
- Thread starter caz41
- Start date
Clean the barrel after each type of ammo you shoot and then pop off 5 fouling rounds to "season" the barrel. Then do whatever testing you want with the ammo. Once done with that type, rinse and repeat.
I spray an all in one clean, lube, protect (CLP) product down the barrel and follow that with a few passes of a bore brush to distribute it throughout the whole barrel. Let that sit for a few minutes to soften things up and then run a couple of patches through the bore to clean out the crud. I usually follow up with some nitro solvent (#9) on a patch or two and run them through. Then I run dry patches through until one finally comes out clean. Last, I spray a very light coat of CLP on a bore mop and run it through to lube and protect. Now I'm ready to foul it up.
Once you settle on a brand of ammo and lot (if you're going that far with testing), don't clean again until you start to notice a drop off in accuracy.
Once you settle on a brand of ammo and lot (if you're going that far with testing), don't clean again until you start to notice a drop off in accuracy.
Mine is crazy simple
- Shoot a few fouler shots 5-10
- Shoot 5-10 rounds at 50, 75, 100, 150 and 200 yards
- Wet a Patch and put it through the bore. Run a couple of dry ones in after that.
- Repeat
New rimfire rifle, right?
Obtain parts diagram.
Disassemble all the way down to the firing pin.
Inspect, clean, reassemble, torque all fasteners to correct specs.
Before testing for accuracy, send 2 bricks of cheap ammo downrange,
cleaning the barrel after every 250 shots.
This is to polish the bore/rifling of the minor manufacturing defects.
Those burrs, bumps, fissures, tooling marks that rip up a bullets surface.
After the break in with cheap ammo, another serious cleaning.
Then test using 2 boxes of quality ammuntion, across a chronograph.
The first 20 are for warm up and scope adjustment,
the remainder are sent to record the chrony numbers and target results.
Decisions are based on the measured MV's and target results
Obtain parts diagram.
Disassemble all the way down to the firing pin.
Inspect, clean, reassemble, torque all fasteners to correct specs.
Before testing for accuracy, send 2 bricks of cheap ammo downrange,
cleaning the barrel after every 250 shots.
This is to polish the bore/rifling of the minor manufacturing defects.
Those burrs, bumps, fissures, tooling marks that rip up a bullets surface.
After the break in with cheap ammo, another serious cleaning.
Then test using 2 boxes of quality ammuntion, across a chronograph.
The first 20 are for warm up and scope adjustment,
the remainder are sent to record the chrony numbers and target results.
Decisions are based on the measured MV's and target results
So in your opinion run a thousand down range before even thinking of testing the ammo? I’ve recent gotten a APA Sako Quad trainer that the prior owner said had around 500 rounds through it. I’ve got about 300 through it but still might be 200 short until I should start testing? Barrel is Lilja Match EPS if that matters.
So far less than stellar results with CCI SV, Wolf Match and Eley Edge. Bought some Tenex and ran a box through it had way better results. But sounds like I should hold off and for sure clean some before shooting the expensive stuff again. What would you recommend for the break in ammo?
So far less than stellar results with CCI SV, Wolf Match and Eley Edge. Bought some Tenex and ran a box through it had way better results. But sounds like I should hold off and for sure clean some before shooting the expensive stuff again. What would you recommend for the break in ammo?
The Lilja is a match grade barrel.
Hand lapped to a mirror finish.
No polishing needed.
Start with the best ammo, shoot the best ammo.
First rate barrel with second rate ammo produces second rate results.
100 rounds, chronograph, distance that makes you happy.
Look at the numbers and target results to decide which lots work, which don't.
My best results have been with SK Pistol Match Special,
SK Biathlon Sport, Lapua Polar Biathlon,
Midas+, RWS R50/R100 and Tenex.
Lot differences will affect results , even with match ammo.
Hand lapped to a mirror finish.
No polishing needed.
Start with the best ammo, shoot the best ammo.
First rate barrel with second rate ammo produces second rate results.
100 rounds, chronograph, distance that makes you happy.
Look at the numbers and target results to decide which lots work, which don't.
My best results have been with SK Pistol Match Special,
SK Biathlon Sport, Lapua Polar Biathlon,
Midas+, RWS R50/R100 and Tenex.
Lot differences will affect results , even with match ammo.
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If the barrel is hand lapped match quality,
with rimfire there is no break in.
Start with the best rimfire ammo you can afford.
A new hammer forged barrel from an assembly line
will need to be shot/polished to smooth out the bore.
Cheap standard velocity or bulk Federal will do the job.
with rimfire there is no break in.
Start with the best rimfire ammo you can afford.
A new hammer forged barrel from an assembly line
will need to be shot/polished to smooth out the bore.
Cheap standard velocity or bulk Federal will do the job.
I agree with Justin on this one. But for me I DO NOT clean between ammunition changes, it is a complete waste of time and you run the risk all be it a very small one of damaging the bore / crown.
Here is what you will find when you change ammo (brands / lube type not lot numbers or types in the same brand): 1st 5-7 rounds crazy good accuracy (most of the time) don’t let this fool you it may not be the actual accuracy of this new ammo, next 10-13 round accuracy will drop, after this it will setting and start shooting as it will. Basically around 15 rounds to season the bore, which interestingly enough will be only maybe 5 ish rounds more than needed to season after a good cleaning.
Also a note on cleaning, quality rimfire barrels do not need to be cleaned very often at all. Basically when you see accuracy drop off.
Here is what you will find when you change ammo (brands / lube type not lot numbers or types in the same brand): 1st 5-7 rounds crazy good accuracy (most of the time) don’t let this fool you it may not be the actual accuracy of this new ammo, next 10-13 round accuracy will drop, after this it will setting and start shooting as it will. Basically around 15 rounds to season the bore, which interestingly enough will be only maybe 5 ish rounds more than needed to season after a good cleaning.
Also a note on cleaning, quality rimfire barrels do not need to be cleaned very often at all. Basically when you see accuracy drop off.
Rarely does a rod pass through my Lilja rimfires.
Pull a couple of patches through and done.
But, every couple of weeks, I have to scrub the chamber.
Otherwise I have extraction problems due to a carbon ring forming.
Bronze brush, solvent and scrub just the chamber.
Swab dry, repeat until no more grey shows up on the swab.
The EPS chamber is tight. If a ring forms
the case mouth expands when fired
and bites into the carbon deposit.
Makes extraction difficult.
I like the CZ455 swap barrel design.
Makes cleaning so easy.
Pull a couple of patches through and done.
But, every couple of weeks, I have to scrub the chamber.
Otherwise I have extraction problems due to a carbon ring forming.
Bronze brush, solvent and scrub just the chamber.
Swab dry, repeat until no more grey shows up on the swab.
The EPS chamber is tight. If a ring forms
the case mouth expands when fired
and bites into the carbon deposit.
Makes extraction difficult.
I like the CZ455 swap barrel design.
Makes cleaning so easy.
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Justin,
Curious as to what solvent you are using? I ask because lately I have been using Bore Tech Carbon remover in my rimfires and have been VERY happy with it. About 10 minutes of dwell time in the bore (especially the chamber) with a tight VFG felt takes care of any fouling to include the carbon ring that may develop without brushing. I do everything I can to NOT use brushes, but I understand where your coming from...
Curious as to what solvent you are using? I ask because lately I have been using Bore Tech Carbon remover in my rimfires and have been VERY happy with it. About 10 minutes of dwell time in the bore (especially the chamber) with a tight VFG felt takes care of any fouling to include the carbon ring that may develop without brushing. I do everything I can to NOT use brushes, but I understand where your coming from...
Hoppes 9 or Pro Shot do the job.
Doesn't require much work as I don't let it get bad.
3 or 4 minutes is all it takes.
For a serious build up it would require more effort
and a more intense solvent.
The brush I use is bronze, unlikely to damage the chamber.
Doesn't require much work as I don't let it get bad.
3 or 4 minutes is all it takes.
For a serious build up it would require more effort
and a more intense solvent.
The brush I use is bronze, unlikely to damage the chamber.
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I use the same Bore Tech and VFG felt pellets. I really don't worry about cleaning causing damage anymore. The VFG pellets keep the brass holder/jag well away from the barrel metal. Cleaning is quicker and easier than anything I've ever used before. Then a little Hawg grease on the bolt and it's GTG.
My Vudoo settles with about 5 rounds if it was cleaned and 10-15 rounds if I'm just changing ammo types. Getting MV's, ES's and SD's are a big part of my testing process and decision making. Chasing your butt through the wonderful world of 22lr testing is one of the must frustrating thing you'll ever do. Just as soon as you think you are done you'll go out the next morning and the results change. Decide what cost/quality of ammo you can afford and be happy.
Jbell, am in agreement about frequency of cleaning (your earlier response).
Would also suggest care with the cleaning solvents used (some may cause pitting if left too long).
After solvent cleaning, push an oiled patch or two.
Suggest only nylon brush if you think that brushing is needed.
I don't want to make it sound like I am 100% against brushes, they certainly have their place. One BIG thing with brushes is making sure they are not bent, this is a quick way to ding up your barrel & they bend so easy! Just a quick spin with it on the rod before you use it EACH TIME and your good to hook.
They are 100% top shelf precision cut rifled lapped barrels from a small company called Ace (so far I am impressed with them) and Bartlein, who needs no introduction. Treat your Vudoo for what it is, a custom built highest end precision rifle. I think some people are thinking for some reason that these Vudoo rifles are more of a "production rifle" they are most definitely not that!
I do the same as jbell. I don't clean my rimfire very often and not between brands. I start at 50yds and will shoot the same brand of ammo. Start with ex. Eley and shoot everything Eley. You don't have to season until you change brands. I find what shoots at 50yds then move out to 100yds and 150yds.
Mark
Pulled the CZ 452 Varmint out to take to the range. The best it had shot was with Wolf Match Target, bout 1/2" at 50 yards. Since it had been a couple of years since shooting the gun, I decided to run a Hoppe`s Bore Snake through it. I inserted the snake through the breech end and did a full pull through. Again, entered through the breech end, and worked the brass brush back and forth in inch increments. I did this twice. Shot that sucker at the range and was using Fed Blue Box Champion at 100 yards. 1" groups. Then I shot the gong at 200 yards(a first), and hit the gong time after time.
This gun did not shoot like this the last time I took it to the range. If and when I clean it again, I will Bore Snake it.
This is just what I did. Next outing will be with WMT.
This gun did not shoot like this the last time I took it to the range. If and when I clean it again, I will Bore Snake it.
This is just what I did. Next outing will be with WMT.
