Just tried my first batch of brass with my induction heater and looking for opinions. First off the brass hasn’t been cleaned so that’s why the neck is black but do you guys see anything that looks like I over annealed them? I attempted to stop the instant I saw glowing. I sacrificed a few pieces doing the plier test but can’t tell any difference. Just looking for opinions for safety sake because I really like the gun im shooting them through
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Annealed brass opinion
- Thread starter Ragin_cajun
- Start date
Visibly it looks fine but when annealing you should have a way to determine if you’re actually even annealing or over annealing. Something like the AMP obviously tests this. I use tempilaq for my bench source annealer.
It’s hard to tell just by looking at the brass afterwards. Different brass will discolor differently as well. My Lapua vs my Nosler brass is visible different when annealed even though they’re annealed to the same time/temp
I don’t see anything to suggest you’re over annealing
It’s hard to tell just by looking at the brass afterwards. Different brass will discolor differently as well. My Lapua vs my Nosler brass is visible different when annealed even though they’re annealed to the same time/temp
I don’t see anything to suggest you’re over annealing
Thank you and I ordered so 750degree paint today for the future. This is all Hornady brass so I’m trying to get everything right before I use high dollar brass
The 750, I do a small stripe from the neck down to just past the shoulder. (It’s thick in the pic for demonstration purposes way back when)
I like to vary how deep into the shoulder vs the neck I center the case in the coil to try and time when the green chalky tempilaq turns to a clear liquid closer between the two, the neck will always turn first.
I like for the tempilaq to just turn clear below the shoulder, the necks get hotter, the shoulders gets to the 750 base line which is equivalent to what I think many argue the necks needing to get to 1k are after.
An example of the 750 turning clear just below the shoulders. Go further and it burns further down and turns and really nasty black goop that’s hard to steel wool off clean.
Two cases at each time, a tempilaq and unpainted, to show you can’t judge by looks alone. Cleanliness of the case has a lot to do with it.
I like to vary how deep into the shoulder vs the neck I center the case in the coil to try and time when the green chalky tempilaq turns to a clear liquid closer between the two, the neck will always turn first.
I like for the tempilaq to just turn clear below the shoulder, the necks get hotter, the shoulders gets to the 750 base line which is equivalent to what I think many argue the necks needing to get to 1k are after.
An example of the 750 turning clear just below the shoulders. Go further and it burns further down and turns and really nasty black goop that’s hard to steel wool off clean.
Two cases at each time, a tempilaq and unpainted, to show you can’t judge by looks alone. Cleanliness of the case has a lot to do with it.
Your brass just needs to be uniformed hardness. Whether that is simply stress relieved or annealed to the micro crystalline structure of spaceships, just make it all the same without massively overdoing it. All the rest is the stuff used to sell the ignorant masses something they likely don't need.
I just want to point out nobody has shown their annealer to recrystalize the structure of brass.
What I hope you understand it that temperature alone is not the key. It's about temperature + time. If the brass necks are at 750°F for a fraction of a second, you're not going to get the same result as if at 750°F for 2 seconds. Though I flame anneal, I gave up the tempilaq use as I just wasn't getting the anneal I thought I would get. I finally had to go to the "glow method" since I have a good idea what temperature I'm dealing with based on the color of the glow, then I set my time accordingly. I would do the same if I had an induction annealer other than the AMP. The AMP has done all the work and figured out the timing and built that into how the AMP is supposed to be used.
With the flame annealing that I do, I was still blind as to where I was with the annealing results. I finally got hold of a tool to help me determine what my annealing was like. My goal was to have my necks the same as virgin Lapua brass, or close to it. I found I was much further off than I thought. I'm sure most people annealing (and those using tempilaq) are likewise further off than they think. Though, like has been mention, the important thing is that whatever is done, it needs to be consistent.
Here's that test I did to find where I was in relation to my virgin Lapua brass:
When I tested mine I used brass that was fired about 3-5 times. I loaded 5 rounds into that brass. Then annealed using the same method as I use currently. Loaded 5 rounds into that brass
Results:
Not annealed: almost 3 inch group at 300 yards. 30+ fps spread
Annealed: 1.6 inch group at 300 yards 19 fps spread
5 rounds per group.
This is what I did to determine if I was actually making any difference aside from tempilaq and everything I read about annealing
Results:
Not annealed: almost 3 inch group at 300 yards. 30+ fps spread
Annealed: 1.6 inch group at 300 yards 19 fps spread
5 rounds per group.
This is what I did to determine if I was actually making any difference aside from tempilaq and everything I read about annealing
I’ve been reading the Bryan Litz 3 volume set “Advancements in LR Shooting”. He produced a lot of data that said generally we make conclusions on a sample size that is too small. Was yours a 1 group each, annealled vs not? Or a lot more?
I run the Annie it's good unit for 6 bra as reference the setting is 1.4 but that depends on the temperature of the brass at the time of annealing so adjustment might be needed you also need to adjust for the thickness of the neck. What I do is set the time for the neck to just start to turn red helps to dim the lights a bit. Ya would love to have an Amp but us poor folk got to feed the kids instead.
