Another weapon light thread… this time with a twist

BJames

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Minuteman
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Jan 20, 2014
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Alaska
First off, I did search the other threads, and pretty much, only learned how many lumens I need to clear a room. This ain’t that kind of thread…

I’m in need of a weapon mounted light for a bolt gun! Mounted via pic rail at 3 o’clock (the rail is already there). 100% outdoor use. The only “room” it will get turned on in, is constructed of thin fabric. No pads, wires, or anything other than the button on the light itself. Need something with a hell of a beam, adequate battery life with high and low settings. The main purpose of this little project is; protection while hiking out with a dead animal on my back in very dense brown bear country.

Have some limited experience with handgun mounted lights but not so much on the long gun. I have been doing some reading and think I understand the relationship between candela, lumens, and how it translates to field performance, kinda. I’ve always just gone for max lumens with head lamps and stuff. Have had hands on the cloud defense rein 2.0, liked it, but want some opinions before I drop $380 on something that might not check all the boxes. I know surefire is the standard, but it’s 2023, has to be options I’m not aware of in this space.

Edited for context: this is for remote Alaska hunting. The defense part, is for wildlife encounters while packing out game animals during our short daylight hours.
 
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Surefire Fury . Single output activation and 1500 lumen narrow beam.

Really good throw

Taking a bolt action action to a bear fight tho… keep us posted
 
Sweet, thanks.



Bear lost.

Edited: @Mr. F would that fit in a standard pic mount like BCM or whatever brand? I’m pretty new to weapon mounted lights. Tired of juggling handhelds, and head lamps wash out optics, figured an AR kind of mounted optic would work with the appropriate light/mounting system?
 
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That was a hunt. However, we hunt multiple species in the same area. With short daylight up here in AK, winter caribou hunts, and not all bears hibernate all winter long.… It leads to wildlife encounters when you least want them. I never worried about it too much until this year, next month my 10 year old is with me on his first big game hunt as shooter. Every winter hunt I’ve been on, we get caught out after dark, happens. Stalks, game processing, etc takes time. We’ve had a few run-in‘s here and there, never had to shoot, but realized my setup is not ideal for that scenario. And having my kid along with me up‘s the ante, so to speak. Also, Alaska has defense of life and property laws if it comes to that, if someone is concerned about legality. Maybe I should edit my OP for context, I’m not going out and trying to get in a “bear fight”. Last report from friends local to the area (AK peninsula) lots of bears still roaming and not sleeping, which is unusual.
 
I live in and hunt AK, the area I usually hunt this time of year is remote. Fly in/ferry only to the village, wheelers out of the village, even the “village/town“ is remote, population 65. Bears sometimes wander through town, wolves eat dogs periodically off chains, etc. It’s really not that bad if you’re used to the lifestyle, but precautions need to be taken. My 375 h&h pretty much, lives with me down there, and is so much more effective than any 12 ga. The rifle is already with me, additional weight isn’t a concern, as I usually have mulitple lights with me, handheld is virtually worthless after shot 1, headlamps are so much more convenient but washout optics badly. I realize recoil is what it is, but staying on the gun would work so much better, hence the mounted light.

Packs are fairly short, couple of miles tops the wheelers, then the ride out. Not worried about time on the wheelers, but we wander a few miles away from the wheelers at any given reasonable time. Though we try to manage time as best as possible, sometimes you have to pack out in the dark.
 
1. there are better options than Surefire for this application

2. you need to decide whether you want to stick with CR123 or go with rechargeable (though I believe there might be adapters); there are now dual fuel (rechargeable AND CR123) options as well

3. two is one, one is none; applies to guns as well as lights too

4. sounds like you might need 2 lights for the gun(backup); and maybe 2 high/low headlamp style lights (when walking and in tent) and maybe a handheld just in case. Lots of extra batts, assume you get injured or might be stuck out in the backcountry longer than you planned.

PM sent
 
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1. Such as?

2. I already have cr123 with me, rechargeable is an option as I usually have a battery pack on me for phone, garmin Inreach, etc.

3 & 4. Have multiple lights on me already, mostly headlamps because those are most convenient. Also, enough batteries to run those for trip duration plus 2 days. Definitely not new to this.
 
REIN 2.0 -- 18650: 71,000 Candela/1100 Lumens/150 minutes
REIN 3.0 -- 100,000 Candela, 1250 Lumens, 95 minutes run-time (With 18650)

Modlite OKW -- 680 lumens, 69,000 candela (18650)
Modlite PLHv2 - 1350 lumens, 54,000 Candela (18650)

Surefire 600 - 1,500 lumens 1.5 hours 16,000 candela (18650)
Surefire X300 Turbo - 650 lumens - 1.5 hours -- 66,000 candela

For longest throw and power combo, it looks like both the Rein lights are top of the podium. The new 3.0 looks wild.
 
Off-topic a bit, but if you have one of these monsters on, you might not even need your rifle lol.

💡 7500 lumens 💡


I think I’ll get the 5000 or 3200 lumens model, as with the smaller battery one can wear the whole unit on your head (vs putting the battery on your waist etc).
 
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There are some other high-end Euro manufacturers of orienteering-type headlamps, but they are quite expensive compared to the Czech Lucifer. I’ve just started looking into high-output headlamps.

The $$$ Euro ones are Lupine, Lumonite, Ledx, Silvasweden, etc etc. Silva makes a 10k lumen unit but I dunno? Lucifer uses a much more conservative method of measuring battery life too.

Lucifer also isn’t some Chinese POS company and is run by an orienteering enthusiast. They don’t have lots of bells and whistles like rear red flashers, led power-remaining graphs on batteries, iPhone apps, etc. They strike me as a lean V8 hot rod vs. a 911. All meat and no fancy leather ventilated seats.

Anyway, here is one of the very few discussions I found on lamps like these: http://www.attackpoint.org/discussionthread.jsp/message_1492032

YT review on one of Lucifer’s smaller lamps, just to see what they’re about. Reviewer seems to be pretty straight shooting.

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I just got today a 1500 lumen Fenix headlamp, the HM65R-T. Went out walking tonight. I think I made a couple of drivers take a little more care and noticed they slowed the hell down (and moved far away from me).

Same dude from YT above reviewed that light too. Initial impressions are good. The HM65R is basically the same thing plus a top strap (maybe good if you’re wearing it without a hat).

But maybe I should’ve went straight to the top and got a huge Lucifer X lol.

P.S. if you’ve never bought anything from Europe before, add to cart and enter your shipping address. They then minus VAT tax as you’re not in Europe so the item is a lot cheaper. The Lucifer X w/smaller battery winds up being 8838 KR ($390) shipped to Minnesota. Fuuuuuuckkk that’s downright reasonable!
 
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Just thought of something. You say headlamps are a pain as they wash your optics out. Haven’t tried this with a scope but it’s worth a try.

Try using a hat with a brim.

They make warm hats like that, I swear, but I can’t remember their names. Some Minnesotan or Wisconsin brand.

Or wear a thin runners ballcap under a regular winter hat.

Anyway, happy light hunting!
 
Streamlight 69219 TLR-1 HPL Gun Light is what I run on an MSR.


Forward right side pic rail.
Remote switch mounted behind light, right side so my support hand fingertips can activate it momentary and strobe.
Switch on the backplate allows OFF/constant ON/Momentary selection.

Works for me in coyote calling after dark.

Edit to add: There is no low power setting on this one.
You’ll need a headlamp to supplement it for hiking out. But it is damn bright and has plenty of throw for a rifle mounted light.
And you an order it with a non-remote tail cap assembly. No wires.
 
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FWIW. I’d be very clear on how that light is used, or take it off during active hunting. Not every Trooper may see it as you do.

Per the regs.

You MAY NOT take any game by:

- Using artificial light, EXCEPT:
»Artificial light may be used while tracking and dispatching
a wounded game animal; however, a hunter may not be on
or in a motorized vehicle while using artificial light; »Artificial light may be used by resident hunters taking
black bear under customary and traditional use activities at a den site Oct 15-Apr 30 in Unit 19A, Unit 19D upstream from the Selatna and Black River drainages, Unit 19E, and Units 21B, 21C, 21D, 24, and 25D.
 
My .02

I carry an olight warrior M2R pro. Great light. They have a pic rail mount if I’m not mistaken. You could also check out their Warrior X Turbo. It can also be mounted. Both have variable power modes and a tail switch and side button for powering on and cycling through the power modes.
 
Though that’s not the purpose, I do appreciate you mentioning that. I’m not losing my hunting rights spot lighting game, not worth it. It might not be a bad idea to talk to some trooper buddies about the idea.

The intent is solely in of a defense of life and property situation. The light will probably live in the pack in place of my hand held, until I’m presented with a night time pack/hike out scenario, then mounted to the weapon.
 
I have one of these as well as a couple other lights. I think mine is an older model with a much lower lumen output, but it has the best throw, a tighter beam so it’s better at longer range than some of my brighter lights. Not sure if that’s what the OP is looking for.
 
I suggest trying a standard Streamlight TLR1 or TLR1 HL to start with. They have a compact footprint and work fairly decent as a handheld light. The Pro Tac is an excellent choice, but you do have what is a standard handheld light design with a mount hanging off of it. The mount on the TRL series is incorporated more into the body design. The largest downside I see for the TRL is the locking screw for the mount is less pronounced than that of the Pro Tac thumb screw. Either one would be a solid choice as they are designed with weapon use in mind. One key aspect of a weapon light is having a brighter center with a bit of throw for distance viewing while having a broader and dimmer "halo" around this center. This outer light field really aids while walking and detection of motion in your peripheral view.
 
It's extremely low compared to the competition. The 18650 powered Turbo scout light is 700 lumens, 600 if running two CR123. The REIN is nearly doubles that at 1250 lumens on an 18650. I'm sure it's a great light, it's just lagged behind the competition the same way Surefire suppressors have. Can't cash in on brand equity forever...
 

Me too. I've spent my career working in product development and consumer goods so I can only imagine. Hard to rationalize the unwillingness to truly innovate and compete in a world where companies like modlite, cloud defensive, cgs, huxwrx, etc. exist. I guess if you are sitting on tons of mil / LE contracts, maybe you don't really care to do so.
 
For sure, but just doesn’t make sense considering they’re constantly coming out with new things. If they acted like Colt I’d understand but they seem way more “in” with the civilian market.

I can only imagine it’s executives or managers who don’t know much about firearms and accessories, and so their decisions, revisions, or compromises in regards to product design lack the proper nuance that others have.