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Night Vision Anvis 9
- Thread starter Cjwise5
- Start date
I'm a little scared that you tagged him. His posts are typically...."colorful".
Dont be scared little one, @TheGerman is a wealth of knowledge! Though his presentation can be interesting at times. ?
ok, well let's start with a surface level opinion question. I have the Ops Core fast bump helmet. Currently using a Wilcox knockoff mount. wondering if the real Wilcox mount is worth the investment? To me that means, does it have more adjustability or other features over a cheap mount that I'm not aware of? The reason I ask is that my current mount seems to have a decent amount of "play" in it. Maybe it's normal though? This is my first set of decent NVG's so admittedly I don't know much.
Yes the Wilcox is worth it. It will make a huge difference. The Anvis can be a bit heavy and the tight tolerances and quality in which the Wilcox is made makes a yuge difference.
I have a lightly used Wilcox DPAM Mount right now for sale. It’s super nice! I’ve never used the knock offs but this Mount is very well engineered. Would I pay the $1600 for a new one? That would be tough, but if I could get one any cheaper I’d sure do it! Message me if you want this one.
Jay
Jay
Knockoff? Like, do they make airsoft ones or something?
If so, cheap but legit is better than that. Knockoff metallurgy can fail, and even with a lanyard (do tell me you have a lanyard) you do not want your expensive NODs falling off unexpectedly.
Lots of mount versions even from Wilcox. Lots and lots. Adjustment range, type of lock, etc. are all options aside from (or within) a brand. Figure out what you need first.
Anyway, just to start with here's a couple good ground mounts for ANVIS that are not /outrageously/ expensive:
Note both have Ops Core specific variants. Getting the mount centered to your setup will help a lot with getting it in front of your eyes properly.
Yes to the lanyard.
The mount came with the NVG‘s when I bought them. I don’t know the first thing about it to tell you the truth.
How do I know if it’s a cheap airsoft version?
The mount came with the NVG‘s when I bought them. I don’t know the first thing about it to tell you the truth.
How do I know if it’s a cheap airsoft version?
- I've never seen that mount for an ANVIS; not sure what it is, but chances are if its not some version of the surface mounts linked above, its some kind of airsoft something. Does it have the force to overcome disconnect feature, and do the electrodues disconnect/connect to give you power to the unit when its flipped up/down? The two biggest reasons I'd look at a better mount are lockup so its not wiggling and making knocking noises constantly, and so it doesn't fall off your head.
- Get a helmet with an actual bolted on shroud and 4D pads.
- You need a dummy cord on the ANVIS unit itself; not via a piece that is held on via velcro. The shock cables are old school tech designed to take the slack out of RHINO mounts back when they had horrible tolerances. I never use them as its something else infront of my face to get snagged on shit and I've seen them seperate and hit a guy in the face below his eye. Ever since then I get the 'fishing hook in eye' picture in my head.
- Not sure if its the angle, but is the mount sitting the ANVIS very high on your face?
- You need a white/IR light on your weak side (non shooting side) for lighting up a larger area if you are searching; it will follow where you're looking and its handsfree. Mount it on the weak side so if you operate it, you dont have to come off the gun; using light at night thats attached to you is a whole other thread.
- Move the PTECH light back.
- Cable managment needs to be re-thought. A helmet cover on this (or a new helmet with a bolt on shroud) will aid in this. The only cord that should be exposed to anything as far as a snag risk should be where the ANVIS and bettery pack cables lock together. On my ANVIS helmet this is routed through a chem light holder and stowed in it when locked. Your cable for the battery pack is basically held on by a velcro patch; brush, tree branch, a million things in a vehicle, etc will rip that and your battery pack right off the helmet. Your battery pack also needs to be dummy corded and secured to the helmet other than by just velcro.
- I'm betting the battery pack isn't enough counter weight for the ANVIS unit. You'll need a counterweight pouch with it (look at the Mohawk; this will also help you with dummy cording and cable routing). My notes say my ANVIS and mount weight 26.5 ounces. Battery housing is 9.1 ounces, an AA battery is .9 ounches, a AAA is .5 ounces, a CR123 is .6 ounches, the nylon battery 'card' I have in my counterweight is .7 ounches and each lead bar I have is 3.7 ounces. Knowing what your individual shit weighs will help you balance it properly as well as be able to carry useful shit instead of just lead. Rule of thumb for us was fo NV equipment, you carried enough redundant batteries to replace all the batteries in your NV equipment once, at the same time. Chances are you weren't going to replace batteries in every piece of NV gear during the same night, but that way you weren't stuck with only a few batteries and then being fucked when you had to change out 2 or 3 pieces of equipment.
- Look into LIF inserts as well as the screw in covers for the front side for when they are not in use.
- Get a helmet with an actual bolted on shroud and 4D pads.
- You need a dummy cord on the ANVIS unit itself; not via a piece that is held on via velcro. The shock cables are old school tech designed to take the slack out of RHINO mounts back when they had horrible tolerances. I never use them as its something else infront of my face to get snagged on shit and I've seen them seperate and hit a guy in the face below his eye. Ever since then I get the 'fishing hook in eye' picture in my head.
- Not sure if its the angle, but is the mount sitting the ANVIS very high on your face?
- You need a white/IR light on your weak side (non shooting side) for lighting up a larger area if you are searching; it will follow where you're looking and its handsfree. Mount it on the weak side so if you operate it, you dont have to come off the gun; using light at night thats attached to you is a whole other thread.
- Move the PTECH light back.
- Cable managment needs to be re-thought. A helmet cover on this (or a new helmet with a bolt on shroud) will aid in this. The only cord that should be exposed to anything as far as a snag risk should be where the ANVIS and bettery pack cables lock together. On my ANVIS helmet this is routed through a chem light holder and stowed in it when locked. Your cable for the battery pack is basically held on by a velcro patch; brush, tree branch, a million things in a vehicle, etc will rip that and your battery pack right off the helmet. Your battery pack also needs to be dummy corded and secured to the helmet other than by just velcro.
- I'm betting the battery pack isn't enough counter weight for the ANVIS unit. You'll need a counterweight pouch with it (look at the Mohawk; this will also help you with dummy cording and cable routing). My notes say my ANVIS and mount weight 26.5 ounces. Battery housing is 9.1 ounces, an AA battery is .9 ounches, a AAA is .5 ounces, a CR123 is .6 ounches, the nylon battery 'card' I have in my counterweight is .7 ounches and each lead bar I have is 3.7 ounces. Knowing what your individual shit weighs will help you balance it properly as well as be able to carry useful shit instead of just lead. Rule of thumb for us was fo NV equipment, you carried enough redundant batteries to replace all the batteries in your NV equipment once, at the same time. Chances are you weren't going to replace batteries in every piece of NV gear during the same night, but that way you weren't stuck with only a few batteries and then being fucked when you had to change out 2 or 3 pieces of equipment.
- Look into LIF inserts as well as the screw in covers for the front side for when they are not in use.
Yes sir, has both of those.
Not sure exactly what you mean here. The goggles are lined up well with my eyes. No trouble with "scope shadow" around the edges.
Got it. Just can't see it in the picture.
Dang, thanks man! All great information. I'll look into making these changes.
My purposes with this setup are different than yours I'm guessing. I'm just a lowly ex-LE guy with a handful of weapons/training courses under my belt. I'm also working on my private pilot's license. I want to hunt at night with this setup, home defense, and hopefully use them while flying at night.
*edit - you are correct on the counter-weights. I had a weight pouch on there first and then got the battery pack. It's just the pack right now, but as you pointed out, it's not quite enough weight on the rear. I'm hearing you say there's a way to run both??
Do me a favor, please don’t use them while flyingbunless you have someone with you. I’m not sure the FAA would be kosher with a private pilot doing that.
yes of course. I should probably be more clear with my intentions. Only be using them while my flight instructor is flying. I didn't mean while I was trying to fly and navigate. Too much going on there.
I'm trying to justify a -14 in the near future. No way I can justify the 9s, but I'd still like a chance to check them out if you don't mind. I'll be staying onsite.
copy that. I'll bring them. we can link up one of the nights.
I don't want to hijack OP's thread but quick ANVIS 9 question also...
Currently use ANVIS 9's. Have not however used something like Sentinel or RNVG? I always hear how some guys love ANVIS glass and I've never really known the difference. What do they mean by ANVIS glass as opposed to something else? ANVIS glass is all I know.
The reason I ask is cause I'm looking to pick up an upgraded goggle. Could one use Sentinel in place of ANVIS and it be as good? Again, ANVIS glass? For me aviation would in fact be primary use (professionally). But would be nice to be able to enjoy the ruggedness and throw it onto my night hunting helmet as well. Any thoughts? Again, don't want to hijack OP thread.
Regards,
G.
Seeker
Currently use ANVIS 9's. Have not however used something like Sentinel or RNVG? I always hear how some guys love ANVIS glass and I've never really known the difference. What do they mean by ANVIS glass as opposed to something else? ANVIS glass is all I know.
The reason I ask is cause I'm looking to pick up an upgraded goggle. Could one use Sentinel in place of ANVIS and it be as good? Again, ANVIS glass? For me aviation would in fact be primary use (professionally). But would be nice to be able to enjoy the ruggedness and throw it onto my night hunting helmet as well. Any thoughts? Again, don't want to hijack OP thread.
Regards,
G.
Seeker
Anvis glass (objectives) have better edge to edge clarity than -14 objectives and a finer focus. The downside is they have filters (coatings) that cut blue & green light which cuts into the performance in particular on darker nights. It’ll be more noticeable with a lower spec tube. I prefer Anvis objectives over -14 ones because at least for my eyes I can focus a better image. Only certain goggles can be ordered to take Anvis objectives such as the Sentinel & Mod-3. Ultimate Night Vision mentioned they are special ordering Anvis RNVGs (no ball detent just to accept the lenses).
There are a handful of different Anvis objectives also. Class A, B, & C filters and an older translating objective that is -6, non-translating lobed objectives, etc etc
The ocular the main difference is they’re not threaded like -14 ones. There are some older 18mm’s to watch out for but as far as I know, the eyepiece functions the same as the -14s. I’m no Anvis expert by any means but I stayed in a Holiday Inn
Just a FYI...The ANVIS RNVG's are not special order like that. We will also have these when AB NV gets done with them.
For me, since I am using them on a flight helmet, the ball detent is a requirement. The option to switch it out to dovetail (or even leave ball detent) and use on my ground helmet would simply be a bonus. Seems either another ANVIS 9 or Sentinel is the only option for that? Put another way, I suppose what I would really like is Sentinel (ruggedness) with ball detent and ANVIS glass. Tube I could pick whatever. L-3 filmless white phosphor seems it would be the best. Of course I may be way off base too.
Regards,
G.
Engineer
Regards,
G.
Engineer
Just a FYI...The ANVIS RNVG's are not special order like that. We will also have these when AB NV gets done with them.
Roger that
Flight helmet as in you’ll be airborne and not just wearing it around I assume? Lol. Maybe Vic can chime in but don’t you need a certified goggle or is it just the tubes and lenses? I’m not sure if Sentinels fit that category?
Ha yeah airborne. And yes your absolutely correct there is a certification requirement under Part 135 and Part 121 as well. But I know of no operators doing under Part 121. For me its all Part 91. Plus there are 2 crew members. One pilot flying and one pilot monitoring. PF is never under googles.
But you do bring up an interesting question. I wonder what the certification requires. Is it just tubes and lenses? I don't know. You would think it would be something like that as what difference would the housing make? Never thought about it.
Regards,
G.
Public Servant
But you do bring up an interesting question. I wonder what the certification requires. Is it just tubes and lenses? I don't know. You would think it would be something like that as what difference would the housing make? Never thought about it.
Regards,
G.
Public Servant
I’m looking into getting goggles for shooting and Part 91 flight use as well. From what I can tell, any goggles manufactured after the TSO date have to meet the requirements of TSO C164, but aren’t required to actually be TSO’d if operating under Part 91 (excepting 91K or LOA’s). There is a pdf of the requirements but I have to pay for it to read it apparently. From what I can tell it’s basically 1) NVG has to be compatible with cockpit lighting, so ANVIS filter B lenses, and 2) has to have redundant power supply.
So the way I read it, Sentinels or any ANVIS lensed NVGs with redundant power could meet the requirements.
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