Any Mountaineers?

[aslrookie]

I am looking for workouts that prepare you for long climbs with steep ascents. I attempted Mt Saint Helens, and I was pretty tired going through the rocks above 4800'. I ended up turning around at 6200'ish feet which is about 2,100' before the summit. I could see it, but I was low on water. Brought 2L of water and a gatorade. My bladder was basically empty when I returned to the parking lot.

I have done other 800-1200' per mile elevation gain hikes before without being this tired, but generally I am carrying less weight (no spikes, ice axe, extra layers, gps, compass, etc) and the elevation usually tops out around 4500-5000' for most hikes.

A workout that mostly incorporates bodyweight would be good. My weight set is basically a 45lbs barbell, 45's, 25's, 10's, and a 25lbs kettle bell.

My goal is to reach Camp Muir on Mt Rainier and maybe Mt Adams this summer if I can get in a class on glacier travel. I will save another Helens attempt for later in the fall when more snow gets back on the mountain.

 

[Buckley]

I am looking for workouts that prepare you for long climbs with steep ascents. I attempted Mt Saint Helens, and I was pretty tired going through the rocks above 4800'. I ended up turning around at 6200'ish feet which is about 2,100' before the summit. I could see it, but I was low on water. Brought 2L of water and a gatorade. My bladder was basically empty when I returned to the parking lot.

I have done other 800-1200' per mile elevation gain hikes before without being this tired, but generally I am carrying less weight (no spikes, ice axe, extra layers, gps, compass, etc) and the elevation usually tops out around 4500-5000' for most hikes.

A workout that mostly incorporates bodyweight would be good. My weight set is basically a 45lbs barbell, 45's, 25's, 10's, and a 25lbs kettle bell.

My goal is to reach Camp Muir on Mt Rainier and maybe Mt Adams this summer if I can get in a class on glacier travel. I will save another Helens attempt for later in the fall when more snow gets back on the mountain.

Climbing and the prep required is different for everyone but there are a few things that are pretty universal. Train early and often. You are on the right track by searching out trails that give you about 1000' per mile but you need to push yourself to make good time and carry increasing amounts of weight. I prefer to use gallons of water for the weight on day training hikes and dump at the top to save my aging knees on the way down. Plenty on good hikes on Interstate 90 such as Mt. Si(old Si trail), Mailbox peak(old trail), Granite Mtn., etc.

Train at the highest altitude you can. Altitude affects everyone differently and the more exposure the better. I usually start to feel it around 8500' on trips to Muir but with more exposure it gets easier.

As with any activity be sure to be well hydrated before you start. Again everyone is different and require different amounts of water and with your training you will figure this out before you set out for your ultimate goal. I consume about 2 liters to get to Muir but my wife will drink 3 plus for the same climb and still feel thirsty.

So much more that can be said. Just get out and enjoy the process and the mountains!

 

[aslrookie]

Climbing and the prep required is different for everyone but there are a few things that are pretty universal. Train early and often. You are on the right track by searching out trails that give you about 1000' per mile but you need to push yourself to make good time and carry increasing amounts of weight. I prefer to use gallons of water for the weight on day training hikes and dump at the top to save my aging knees on the way down. Plenty on good hikes on Interstate 90 such as Mt. Si(old Si trail), Mailbox peak(old trail), Granite Mtn., etc.

Train at the highest altitude you can. Altitude affects everyone differently and the more exposure the better. I usually start to feel it around 8500' on trips to Muir but with more exposure it gets easier.

As with any activity be sure to be well hydrated before you start. Again everyone is different and require different amounts of water and with your training you will figure this out before you set out for your ultimate goal. I consume about 2 liters to get to Muir but my wife will drink 3 plus for the same climb and still feel thirsty.

So much more that can be said. Just get out and enjoy the process and the mountains!

I've done Mt Si a few times including scrambling the haystack. I haven't done mailbox yet mostly because it seems to be a high touristy hike, and I don't like crowded trails. If the parking lot is full, I go somewhere else. The hardest hike I did in the Snoqualmie pass area so far is Mt Taneriffe via the Kamakazie trail. It's roughly 1300' per mile gain or something like that. My speed was decent until I got tired around 6200' on Helens. I was up and down from climbers boviauc in just over 5hrs with a water/snack break before my descent down.

I like the idea of using water and dumping it. I don't mind the grind upwards, it's the way down that kills me. My legs felt like jello on the way down from Helens navigating all that rocky terrain.

 

[Buckley]

I've done Mt Si a few times including scrambling the haystack. I haven't done mailbox yet mostly because it seems to be a high touristy hike, and I don't like crowded trails. If the parking lot is full, I go somewhere else. The hardest hike I did in the Snoqualmie pass area so far is Mt Taneriffe via the Kamakazie trail. It's roughly 1300' per mile gain or something like that. My speed was decent until I got tired around 6200' on Helens. I was up and down from climbers boviauc in just over 5hrs with a water/snack break before my descent down.

I like the idea of using water and dumping it. I don't mind the grind upwards, it's the way down that kills me. My legs felt like jello on the way down from Helens navigating all that rocky terrain.

The best time for climbing St. Helens is March. No passes required and more snow-less pumice. You will need the appropriate gear however, and a good weather window.

The best training for Muir and above is Muir! The small group I climb with has taken noobs up Rainier multiple times and we judge their conditioning with a timed climb to Muir with full gear including tent, bag, harness and axe, etc. with the goal of achieving camp in 4.5 hours or less including breaks.

The thought of training with full PRS match load out including the rifle has intrigued me. The looks on the hard core granola faces would be priceless. But the SWAT team they call in probably would not be very happy with that choice of training weight!

 

[slowlearner]

One thing I didn’t see you mention was if you ate anything. I find at altitude I have to force myself to eat more to maintain enough calories in. Altitude also seems to suck moisture out, and staying hydrated is a constant struggle. Lots of little breaks versus huge pushes and longer breaks allow you to enjoy the views more, and keep your body better fueled.

Time on a stair climber with weight also works if you have access to a gym. If not, high reps of lunges and kettlebell squats.

Think of every large step up is almost a single leg squat (going up and down), so endurance there will help build in safety for coming down. I have caught myself getting very weak on the return back down.

 

[aslrookie]

One thing I didn’t see you mention was if you ate anything. I find at altitude I have to force myself to eat more to maintain enough calories in. Altitude also seems to suck moisture out, and staying hydrated is a constant struggle. Lots of little breaks versus huge pushes and longer breaks allow you to enjoy the views more, and keep your body better fueled.

Time on a stair climber with weight also works if you have access to a gym. If not, high reps of lunges and kettlebell squats.

Think of every large step up is almost a single leg squat (going up and down), so endurance there will help build in safety for coming down. I have caught myself getting very weak on the return back down.

Since this was my first trip to an altitude of over 8000', I felt pressed for time since most trips indicated they took 10 to 12 hours roundtrip. I was on the trailhead at 4am sharp. I went from 3700' trailhead to 6200' without eating at all. I was just taking sips of water as needed on the ascent. I felt rushed to make the summit based on previous trip reports. I usually don't eat until I reach the top. I can get away with that on my smaller hikes because you're generally at the top in about 2 hours, but that doesn't work on bigger climbs.

I stopped to eat once I turned around and made a 1000' descent in elevation. It sucked because I felt rejuvenated and almost tempted to ascend again, but I knew that energy would be short lived with my water bladder having 1L left.

I learned a couple things on this trip and snacking, quick breaks, and more water were the major ones.

 

[slowlearner]

Since this was my first trip to an altitude of over 8000', I felt pressed for time since most trips indicated they took 10 to 12 hours roundtrip. I was on the trailhead at 4am sharp. I went from 3700' trailhead to 6200' without eating at all. I was just taking sips of water as needed on the ascent. I felt rushed to make the summit based on previous trip reports. I usually don't eat until I reach the top. I can get away with that on my smaller hikes because you're generally at the top in about 2 hours, but that doesn't work on bigger climbs.

I stopped to eat once I turned around and made a 1000' descent in elevation. It sucked because I felt rejuvenated and almost tempted to ascend again, but I knew that energy would be short lived with my water bladder having 1L left.

I learned a couple things on this trip and snacking, quick breaks, and more water were the major ones.

I have definitely made a similar mistake, but we didn’t bring enough food in general. We were about 3,000 vertical up (started at 9500), and that was our last snickers/food. Bonked pretty hard in the chute, but really only had one option to press up to get away from the increasing avalanche danger.

But then again, looking out at 13500 feet and coming around from the “non trail” side as the regular trail folks watched...well worth it.

Sometimes embracing the suck is the fastest way to safety. 10/10 would do again.

 

[aslrookie]

What mountain is that?

 

[slowlearner]

What mountain is that?

Mt Quandary in Colorado. Went up one of the chutes on the north side. Where I am standing was around 10,000 feet and the chute is pretty much coming out of my head. We exited east at the end of the chute, skipping a push to the summit due to our exhaustion.

 

[Lkwoolsey]

I am looking for workouts that prepare you for long climbs with steep ascents. I attempted Mt Saint Helens, and I was pretty tired going through the rocks above 4800'. I ended up turning around at 6200'ish feet which is about 2,100' before the summit. I could see it, but I was low on water. Brought 2L of water and a gatorade. My bladder was basically empty when I returned to the parking lot.

I have done other 800-1200' per mile elevation gain hikes before without being this tired, but generally I am carrying less weight (no spikes, ice axe, extra layers, gps, compass, etc) and the elevation usually tops out around 4500-5000' for most hikes.

A workout that mostly incorporates bodyweight would be good. My weight set is basically a 45lbs barbell, 45's, 25's, 10's, and a 25lbs kettle bell.

My goal is to reach Camp Muir on Mt Rainier and maybe Mt Adams this summer if I can get in a class on glacier travel. I will save another Helens attempt for later in the fall when more snow gets back on the mountain.

I used to guide on Rainier quite a bit, and being out of shape was generally the biggest issue we had with clients. I usually would tell people to train with 40-50 pounds on their back. More than that can cause too much stress on your knees during workouts. Wear boots, and go find a stadium with lots of stairs. Walk up and down them as fast as you can for an hour or more. Bikes are another good way to get your cardio game up without stress on your knees.
Someone else said train as high as you can. He hit the nail on the head. That said, your body is going to have to acclimate anyways, so it may or may not be beneficial, really just depends on your body.
Biggest thing is to increase your cardiovascular fitness. When I wasn't climbing, I was hiking a ton. I would find a steep trail, and load my pack with gallon jugs of water (along with normal gear.) Go as fast as you can up (obviously you'll be going fairly slow, just keep going, since its a workout not a leisure hike.) When you get to the top, dump the water, so youre not stressing your knees on the way down.
With weights, do lots of weighted lunges, bulgarian squats, regular squats, etc. Get your quads used to pushing past whats comfortable. Light weight, thousands of reps
Dont forget lower back and core though. Lots of people skip it. Get your core strong and lower back. Too many people twist wrong and end up hurt in that area. Strong core and back will go miles.
Basically you just need your cardio game up. And it needs to be up while packing weight.
Just my two cents. Hit me up if you have any questions. I haven't guided in a while (10 years or so) but I still climb a bit. Done Rainier, Baker, Hood, Adams, for the volcanos, and a bunch of the other smaller climbs (techinical rock and ice, ie, Forbidden Peak, Eldorado, etc.)

 

[aslrookie]

I used to guide on Rainier quite a bit, and being out of shape was generally the biggest issue we had with clients. I usually would tell people to train with 40-50 pounds on their back. More than that can cause too much stress on your knees during workouts. Wear boots, and go find a stadium with lots of stairs. Walk up and down them as fast as you can for an hour or more. Bikes are another good way to get your cardio game up without stress on your knees.
Someone else said train as high as you can. He hit the nail on the head. That said, your body is going to have to acclimate anyways, so it may or may not be beneficial, really just depends on your body.
Biggest thing is to increase your cardiovascular fitness. When I wasn't climbing, I was hiking a ton. I would find a steep trail, and load my pack with gallon jugs of water (along with normal gear.) Go as fast as you can up (obviously you'll be going fairly slow, just keep going, since its a workout not a leisure hike.) When you get to the top, dump the water, so youre not stressing your knees on the way down.
With weights, do lots of weighted lunges, bulgarian squats, regular squats, etc. Get your quads used to pushing past whats comfortable. Light weight, thousands of reps
Dont forget lower back and core though. Lots of people skip it. Get your core strong and lower back. Too many people twist wrong and end up hurt in that area. Strong core and back will go miles.
Basically you just need your cardio game up. And it needs to be up while packing weight.
Just my two cents. Hit me up if you have any questions. I haven't guided in a while (10 years or so) but I still climb a bit. Done Rainier, Baker, Hood, Adams, for the volcanos, and a bunch of the other smaller climbs (techinical rock and ice, ie, Forbidden Peak, Eldorado, etc.)

Do you have any suggestions on places that host classes and hands on training for glacier travel?

 

[Fig]

In my youth Mt. McKinley. The Bible:

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

 

[aslrookie]

In my youth Mt. McKinley. The Bible:

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Yes, I just started reading this book except I have the 9th edition

 

[Lkwoolsey]

Great book, that was our textbook. I got into it when I was 16 through BOEALPS, its Boeings climbing club. They're inexpensive for their courses, but time consuming. The Mountaineers is a good group to involved with, you can find someone willing to teach you. Only other thing is find a guide company and take one of their courses. Usually a week or long weekend, not bad just spendy. RMI is decent, or was 10 years ago.

 

[Buckley]

That time of year again to start training for the upcoming climbing season. Pic from two years ago about 100 vertical shy of Rainier summit. No. 10 for me and no. 8 for my awesome wife at the end of our rope. Missed last year for the first time since 2010 due to other obligations but going again this year along with St. Helens and Hood. Get out there and enjoy what God has given us everyone!

 

[Walter Haas]

I am looking for workouts that prepare you for long climbs with steep ascents. I attempted Mt Saint Helens, and I was pretty tired going through the rocks above 4800'. I ended up turning around at 6200'ish feet which is about 2,100' before the summit. I could see it, but I was low on water. Brought 2L of water and a gatorade. My bladder was basically empty when I returned to the parking lot.

I have done other 800-1200' per mile elevation gain hikes before without being this tired, but generally I am carrying less weight (no spikes, ice axe, extra layers, gps, compass, etc) and the elevation usually tops out around 4500-5000' for most hikes.

A workout that mostly incorporates bodyweight would be good. My weight set is basically a 45lbs barbell, 45's, 25's, 10's, and a 25lbs kettle bell.

My goal is to reach Camp Muir on Mt Rainier and maybe Mt Adams this summer if I can get in a class on glacier travel. I will save another Helens attempt for later in the fall when more snow gets back on the mountain.

I do double step stair master at the gym with 52 lbs on my back in a backpack, balanced, usually dog food. I skip every other step to keep my steps high. This will deal with all uphill strength needs. Then, on top of that, I hike something steep, at least 25 degrees, and long, 5 or 6 miles. The downhill can't be simulated in a gym, so I go outside. That's how I prep for Mt. Shasta.

 

[Graywolf.260]

I do double step stair master at the gym with 52 lbs on my back in a backpack, balanced, usually dog food. I skip every other step to keep my steps high. This will deal with all uphill strength needs. Then, on top of that, I hike something steep, at least 25 degrees, and long, 5 or 6 miles. The downhill can't be simulated in a gym, so I go outside. That's how I prep for Mt. Shasta.

with your avatar, I'd have expected that you repeatedly push the dog food bag up the hill and let it roll down...

 

[Walter Haas]

with your avatar, I'd have expected that you repeatedly push the dog food bag up the hill and let it roll down...

I get it! LOL. You're right, the shit rolls down in San Francisco.

 

[buffalowinter]

Run...a lot.

 

[alfmoonspace]

Run a lot with elevation!

 

[WIVigilance]

Uphill Athlete, specializes in workout programs designed for your goals...I haven’t used them but it looks interesting and from my experience it looks like it would work. (I’m not affiliated in any way with them) it might be a good place to start.

 

[Vallecito1]

I was an NCAA div 1 champ in track and XC Long distance. I climb 18000 plus in Venezuela and Colombia and all over the western US. My advice, run a lot. By a lot I mean consistent. Run 6 of 7 days a week. Quantity of miles is not what matters. Its consistency. Build up to longer runs. 20 minutes a day is better than 40 minutes a week. Takes time. Be patient.

 

[Reverie Ranges]

Best time to climb MSH is just before Mother's Day. No permit is needed, climbing snow instead of ashy dirt, and you get to glissade all the way back.

 

[Cactus Kid]

The same guys wrote "Training for the New Alpinism" and host uphillathelete.com. Great book, I just read it last month. They really like high volume, low intensity cardio training with a small amount of high intensity mixed in. The concepts are not revolutionary on their own, but the way they mix them all together to peak for a specific trip is VERY beneficial. Highly recommended.

 

[Buckley]

Finally a nice day in the PNW! Got out with the wife and dog to hike Mailbox Peak(old trail) on the I-90 corridor. Best training hike that I know of outside of climbing to camp Muir.