Anyone with a 3D printer interested in printing a Magnetospeed Sporter rail mount for the electronics? Take my money.
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Anyone 3D print Magnetospeed Sporter rail mount?
- Thread starter LRDaniel-San
- Start date
Im am trying to come up with design for my DT SRS but generic enouh to fit on my other rifles... i dont know when ill be finish with it... but give me some details, specs, ideas, and ill try to incorporate.... here is what i have so far..l just started this morning... the tube clamp will be screwed to a picatinny QD mount...
I just need to design a mechanism to connect the bayonet to the rod that allows for hieght adjustment....
Send me a PM so i have your contact and ill hit you up.... hopefully soon..
K
I just need to design a mechanism to connect the bayonet to the rod that allows for hieght adjustment....
Send me a PM so i have your contact and ill hit you up.... hopefully soon..
K
Ah... Yeah...I grabbed this screen shoot before I really thought about it... Of course your idea is a better direction as the bayonet need to be much higher than this arrangement would allow.....
BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD....
Thats a good looking design for mounting the sensor. Any thoughts on mounting the electronics/display?
Um... not really... if you have some suggestions please forward... I have an SRS so the length of lateral adjustment I need is minimal and really didn't see the need to mounting the readout... but it should be pretty easy to incorporate... I post the progress here.
k
k
I made something similar back when I had a sporter.
I printed an internal and external block to better support the device.
Eventually I cut the housing because my brakes were still getting in the way.
I also made that bore spacer to put the sensor 1/8” off the bore.
I printed an internal and external block to better support the device.
Eventually I cut the housing because my brakes were still getting in the way.
I also made that bore spacer to put the sensor 1/8” off the bore.
The one thing I searched high and low for was a picattiny adapter that just had a blank area that could be customized.
Repurposing some cheap scope mounts; a 3d part would be lighter. Add 1/2" rod. You can put a small flat on the rod to add another short section atop it to move the sensor closer. Alternately you heat up the rod and "joggle" the sensor closer. <$20
Repurposing some cheap scope mounts; a 3d part would be lighter. Add 1/2" rod. You can put a small flat on the rod to add another short section atop it to move the sensor closer. Alternately you heat up the rod and "joggle" the sensor closer. <$20
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Did a V3 with some cheap chinese scope rings and a bit of work on the lathe.
Double ball joint works on Rimfire . would have issues on centerfire as its just too flimsfy , also multi axis freedom of two balls is not needed so a 3d printed solution will likely be next.
*Note that if you have stock rails paralel to the bore making a mount is actualy very easy and you so not need any fancy ball joints
Double ball joint works on Rimfire . would have issues on centerfire as its just too flimsfy , also multi axis freedom of two balls is not needed so a 3d printed solution will likely be next.
*Note that if you have stock rails paralel to the bore making a mount is actualy very easy and you so not need any fancy ball joints
Talking about 3D printers: can someone recommend me a good one? WTB a 3D printer, but I don't know which one to pick. One of my friends (he's from France) told me that I can pick a matériaux impression 3D printer from the shop in the Paris. He also showed me some stuff he did with it, and it looks fascinating. But I want to buy something American. On the other hand, I always wanted to visit Paris and look at the Eiffel Tower, lol. They say that this tower is amazing. Something like an architectural miracle or something.
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You can get far on cheap printers like Ender 3 and 5 200-400$ note print quality has a lot to do with settings in the slicer software, as you gain experience you can considerably improve the prints.
Next level up is Prusa I3 MK3 , it looks cheap and simple but is better than sum of its parts as the company makes printers, software and filaments and the tune right out of the box can be great at around 500-700$
Next level up you want to print higher temperature materials like ABS, ASA etc for that you need an enclosed printer, there are a bunch out there like Zotrax M200 M300 or Ultimaker 2 , but these already machines in 2000+ $ range ,Midrange builds like SecKit-Go for some 1000$ , build it once you get more experience
In this range folks already build own printers that can be great bang for the buck but take time and effort to make in 2000+$ range current King of the hill is the Railcore II , followed close by machines like Voron V2 all of these machines are ither kit or plans built.
I started on Ender 5 pro and am now building a heavily moded Railcore IIZLT , Ender 5 at present i have extremely well-tuned using Prusaslicer and minimal upgrades on the printer itself.
Next level up is Prusa I3 MK3 , it looks cheap and simple but is better than sum of its parts as the company makes printers, software and filaments and the tune right out of the box can be great at around 500-700$
Next level up you want to print higher temperature materials like ABS, ASA etc for that you need an enclosed printer, there are a bunch out there like Zotrax M200 M300 or Ultimaker 2 , but these already machines in 2000+ $ range ,Midrange builds like SecKit-Go for some 1000$ , build it once you get more experience
In this range folks already build own printers that can be great bang for the buck but take time and effort to make in 2000+$ range current King of the hill is the Railcore II , followed close by machines like Voron V2 all of these machines are ither kit or plans built.
I started on Ender 5 pro and am now building a heavily moded Railcore IIZLT , Ender 5 at present i have extremely well-tuned using Prusaslicer and minimal upgrades on the printer itself.
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