Anyone reload 300 Blackout for their AR?

KCode

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 25, 2019
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If so I'd love some pointers. Starting out fresh here.

From what I've read it seems the RCBS Small Base Taper Crimp dies would probably be my best bet for dies.

Are there any specific 223 brass that does the best? Or can any once fired brass do alright?
 
Forming 300 brass from 223 isn’t terribly difficult. I’ve made it, primarily, from Remington headstamped brass. Mostly because I save the LC brass for 223 loads. There is a list somewhere on the internet that shows what brass works, and what brass has case walls that is too thick to work well. I’m too lazy to go look for it, so that will be your homework assignment- but Rem and LC are both gtg… I bought a small chop saw, built a jig to position the brass, and that is what I use to cut the brass to size. It is a single pass through a 300 bo die to get the basic shape. I do not use a small base die. Fire-forming is not necessary. Then, over to the brass trimmer to get the overall case length correct. But, today, I would just buy some 300 blackout head-stamped brass and rock on.
 
I am building a 300 blk and bought 400 rounds of factory ammo to break in the barrel and generate reloadable brass.
400 seems excessive but whatever, it’s your dime. There’s several threads on this with a ton of reloading data. No need to crimp. Regular RCBS small base or non-small base dies are just fine for 300 Blk.
 
I use regular RCBS 300blk out dies. I bought Starline 300blk brass and my buddies give me their 300blk brass. 19.8 grains of H110 and 110 grain vmax is an incredible and easy combo
 
If you are looking for bulk brass, just get a bunch of already processed 300Blk brass from someone like Sage's. It works great.


If you were running a bolt gun then I would say get Starline.

My MCX Virtus with a 6.75" barrel puts 220 Noslers into .75" at 50yds with mixed Sages brass and N120 powder. CFE Blk works great but it's dirtier and slightly lowder.

In ARs, I have had great luck with both plates and powder coated bullets. Just make sure you flair the case mouth a fair bit so that seating the bullet doesn't shave off the plating or powder coating.
 
I cut and formed a few thousand over the winter and spring, using Forster Ultra dies. Modding the cutoff saw as such speeds this up considerably. The bessey clamp is to limit how far it opens, the clear tube an extension handle. Goes 3 times faster.

20240131_134314.jpg
 
H110, 110/125's for supers.. cfeblack or aa1680 with 200-220gr for subs


I have made 10s of thousands of pieces of brass with 5.56 LC on my 650 with their rt1500 trimmer. Stupid fast and easy

I've never crimped a 300blk round in my life

Forster FL sizing die and Forster Ultra Micrometer seating die
 
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Also, buy a progressive press if you shoot a lot but hate to reload. Otherwise just keep buying factory and enjoy the convenience!
Agreed with this. I run a a Dillon 650. I also use it to load semi auto precision rounds by switching out the auto powder drop to a 550 powder funnel setup and weighing charges off of Chargemasters.

I dont really add a crimp on mine as other people noted. But I do use a crimp down to retaper the case flair.
 
Wait, who flairs 300 BO cases?
I definitely do with plated or powder coated bullets. Otherwise there is a lot of shave. And with powder coated the lead can build up at the case mouth outside of the case which can prevent a BCG from fully seating if the freebore is tight.