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Anyone use an Oryx 10/22 chassis
- Thread starter vaguru
- Start date
I've got one in my Grey Birch 10/22 build.
Very solid, holds the action snug. Prefer the rear tang setups, but the cross bolt works well.
Not compatible with kidd recoil buffer with the steel pin/rubber sleeve. The chassis only captures the bottom ~1/16" of the buffer, and the steel pin in the Kidd setup will work its way loose. It's not a big deal, just didn't know when I ordered and had to replace the buffer.
Depending on end use, you may find the chassis to be rear heavy. The butt stock is solid (heavy) and balance is further back than I'd like when with a heavy 20" barrel.
Don't regret the purchase. It has served me well.
Very solid, holds the action snug. Prefer the rear tang setups, but the cross bolt works well.
Not compatible with kidd recoil buffer with the steel pin/rubber sleeve. The chassis only captures the bottom ~1/16" of the buffer, and the steel pin in the Kidd setup will work its way loose. It's not a big deal, just didn't know when I ordered and had to replace the buffer.
Depending on end use, you may find the chassis to be rear heavy. The butt stock is solid (heavy) and balance is further back than I'd like when with a heavy 20" barrel.
Don't regret the purchase. It has served me well.
Agree with rlaunay on all points. The only thing I can add is a con - no provision for a front qd flush cup. It includes a front sling stud but you loose this if you run an ARCA rail. RRS makes an ARCA compatible flush cup adapter but it's pricey.
Thanks for reply Lonestar. What color are the plastic parts on yours? Did you paint it? I did purchase one and received it last week. I'm in the adjust and modify stage currently. When I get it all done I'll post some pics.
The panels are the gray optional parts from Oryx. I didn't really care for the look with the standard green furniture. I also replaced the grip with an MTD Vertical Grip and added an Oryx Arca rail kit. https://oryxchassis.com/us/oryx-side-panels.html https://oryxchassis.com/us/oryx-chassis-arca-rail-full-forend-length.html
Have had my ORYX 10/22 chassis for about 2 weeks now. Did a couple of mods to satisfy myself including an mlok mount for a bipod.
One issue I did have was with the crossbolt torqued as specified, my action was moving. The rear of the action was rising up out of the chassis due to barrel weight, tipping forward. Tightened down to "gudentite" it still "appeared" to move some after extended shooting. So I fabricated a rear anchor incorporating the action cleaning rod hole and the the chassis crossbolt. It is solid now, and to my satisfaction that it will never move.
I also didn't like the add on bag riders available for one reason or another, so I fabricated my own version. Totally satisfied with my creation. Has all the benefits a bag rider requires without the loss of swivel pockets, with minimal added weight ( less than 2 oz.), and no changes to the chassis proper. Looks pretty decent too!
Pics included of rear anchor and bag rider.
Shooting this setup my accuracy has improved and and I am totally pleased with this product.
One issue I did have was with the crossbolt torqued as specified, my action was moving. The rear of the action was rising up out of the chassis due to barrel weight, tipping forward. Tightened down to "gudentite" it still "appeared" to move some after extended shooting. So I fabricated a rear anchor incorporating the action cleaning rod hole and the the chassis crossbolt. It is solid now, and to my satisfaction that it will never move.
I also didn't like the add on bag riders available for one reason or another, so I fabricated my own version. Totally satisfied with my creation. Has all the benefits a bag rider requires without the loss of swivel pockets, with minimal added weight ( less than 2 oz.), and no changes to the chassis proper. Looks pretty decent too!
Pics included of rear anchor and bag rider.
Shooting this setup my accuracy has improved and and I am totally pleased with this product.
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I have an Oryx 10/22. It was the only offering a year ago and made it a good competitive NRL22 platform but I personally wouldn't recommend it for PRS/NRL22 like competitions today. It is an extremely rear heavy chassis, and the weight is good for say a centerfire build, or if you ran a really heavy 10/22 front barrel.
The lack of the m-loks on the side for attachments is limiting.
For the sling cup, I purchased https://amzn.to/3ta5NEL which is an arca-clamp with a QD cup. It's an alternative to the RRS one and cheaper.
If I had to do it again today, I'd most likely do the KRG 10/22 setup.
The lack of the m-loks on the side for attachments is limiting.
For the sling cup, I purchased https://amzn.to/3ta5NEL which is an arca-clamp with a QD cup. It's an alternative to the RRS one and cheaper.
If I had to do it again today, I'd most likely do the KRG 10/22 setup.
littlepod,
I don't find the chassis that rear heavy. It balances at my preferred point, just in front of the magazine without the bipod, and just in front of the forward action screw with. My bipod is relatively light at 9oz, and with some other versions that weigh considerably more would change the balance point further forward. I have a KIDD 18" full .920 SS bbl installed and this works well for me.
I guess I'm just not one of those guys that like a balance point 4-5" in front of the action.
I looked at the KRG 10/22 setup and decided it wasn't for me, prefer full aluminum chassis.
Thanks for your comments.
I don't find the chassis that rear heavy. It balances at my preferred point, just in front of the magazine without the bipod, and just in front of the forward action screw with. My bipod is relatively light at 9oz, and with some other versions that weigh considerably more would change the balance point further forward. I have a KIDD 18" full .920 SS bbl installed and this works well for me.
I guess I'm just not one of those guys that like a balance point 4-5" in front of the action.
I looked at the KRG 10/22 setup and decided it wasn't for me, prefer full aluminum chassis.
Thanks for your comments.
True, if you have a Kidd 18" .92 SS bull barrel you'll get the weight to balance it. With a standard Ruger / factory 10/22 option, it's definitely too light. As you can see in the picture, the balance point is right in front of the trigger. The KRG's have an aluminum backbone, and then a poly cover around it. The big downside is the grip isn't adjustable, so you can't replace it with say the MDT vert grip.
I had a friend print one for me a long time ago. @zenbike
When properly installed in the chassis, the bolt stop pin is about 1/3 contained. Buffers that use a steel insert in the center of tubing will have the center insert walk out. Choose another type that is solid one piece.
I know this is a really old thread, but I wanted to jump in and make a comment for anyone looking at the Oryx for their 10/22 in regards to balance. I read this thread (last year) and thought I would be okay with a 20 inch barrel getting it to balance okay. However, the butt is so heavy it struggles to balance where most would consider ideal for NRL or PRS type shooting.
My preferred balance point would be about 2-3 inches further forward and there is just no practical way to get it to balance there. I did some weight testing and it would need an additional 2 lbs at the front of the forend to achieve that. If you don't might setting the mag well over a bag then it would be fine. However, in that case you are using the trigger guard as your stop, you are very close to the barricade/obsticle, and mag changes are much more challenging.
Balance point of my 10/22 with the Oryx:
For anyone wondering, the bag rider weighs ~4.9oz and the Muzzle Brake is ~3.7oz so they pretty much cancel out. This is with a Kidd 20" .920 Bull Barrel.
My preferred balance point would be about 2-3 inches further forward and there is just no practical way to get it to balance there. I did some weight testing and it would need an additional 2 lbs at the front of the forend to achieve that. If you don't might setting the mag well over a bag then it would be fine. However, in that case you are using the trigger guard as your stop, you are very close to the barricade/obsticle, and mag changes are much more challenging.
Balance point of my 10/22 with the Oryx:
For anyone wondering, the bag rider weighs ~4.9oz and the Muzzle Brake is ~3.7oz so they pretty much cancel out. This is with a Kidd 20" .920 Bull Barrel.
If you really want to balance that thing out, do what I did. I made a mold to fit the cut outs in the forenend of the chassis. There are 2 different machined "channels". I then cast lead into the molds and installed in the fore end channels. Rifle weighs 15 1/2 lbs, balances perfectly on a tripod with bag. For even more forward weight I also cast 2 short pieces using the smaller mold for the fore end and attached one to each side using the screw holes for the side panels. The 2 weights in the fore end weigh 2 lbs, the extra side weights ar 10 oz if I remember correctly. I held the channel weights in place using the front swivel stud hole, and one bolt through the rear mlok slot.I also made a bag rider out of 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum flat stock. It weighs less than 2 oz. Picture shows the bag rider before covering with black heat shrink, and after. And the balance point on a chair.
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I did honestly consider doing something like this for quite a while. However, as much as I like custom work, it seemed a bit extreme where there are other options to try. Cost wise this would probably be the better option, but I also like trying new things. Also, I don't have the means or comfort level for casting lead myself. I looked into getting steel machined parts from Send-Cut-Send along with epoxy molding in some tungsten rods or BBs. I just felt like it wasn't worth the effort (for me at least).
I've put the Sharps Bros Heatseeker chassis on my list to try next though. Normally it comes with a 9 inch handguard, but I spoke to them and they said they'd swap in the 14 inch for me at no charge. Checks all the boxes for things I'm looking for in a chassis and should be easier to balance out with simple M-Lok weights. I'm just waiting on the XLR C-6 Buttstocks to come back into stock as that's what I'd like to use with it.
Should look something like this with the 14 inch handguard.
XLR C-6 Buttstock
