Appropriate Zero Range For Calculators?

[Triggered]

I very recently started shooting with a Kestrel 5700 Elite on version 1.13 and I am very happy with it and impressed, but I am still in the process of ironing out the finer details such as the gun profiles and ballistic data for my loads.

That being said, I have traditionally zero'd my long range guns for 300 yds and have gotten accustomed to those hold overs and what not. However, I have slowly been encountering windage errors or a bit of mental number crunching since it usually takes two to three shots to establish a solid zero within the 10-ring depending on how bad the conditions are, but then the wind corrections are voided as I have dialed for them and skews greater estimates off obviously.

I was talking with a buddy today who is a big PRS / bench rest shooter and he suggested that I move my zero range into 100 yd to minimize environmental factors before I even prompted the subject of having some minor troubles because he knew I zero'd out at 300 yd.

Anyways, was just curious what the standard procedure was for most of the shooters running calculators when it came to zeroing ranges. The 100yd makes sense too me in this regard when using the calculator, especially here in the Northern Plains when the wind conditions are generally shit 9/10 times.

 

[Fursniper]

Your buddy is correct, a 100 yd zero is the way to go. For the preference of some hunters, an alternate zero range (usually 200 yds) can be useful for quick offhand shots, especially with simple duplex type reticles. But for target/tactical/LR types of shooting, the 100 yd zero is foundational.

 

[LastShot300]

Your buddy is correct, a 100 yd zero is the way to go. For the preference of some hunters, an alternate zero range (usually 200 yds) can be useful for quick offhand shots, especially with simple duplex type reticles. But for target/tactical/LR types of shooting, the 100 yd zero is foundational.

Absolutely right!

 

[devldogs55]

They're all right on.. and it's because for PRS/practical rifle/steel/tactical matches - we don't really use "hold over". We do use wind holds quite a bit.. and I won't say that a holdover shot is uncommon because we have such great reticles now.. but the general idea is dialing elevation on your turrets. This method requires a very accurate velocity to enter into a ballistic calculator (or card), and some other information that's not too difficult to obtain.

When I get out to my coyote spots, for instance, I am usually up high on a hill ideally with 180 degrees of coverage. I range all my avenues of approach for yotes, and I make a range card with my kestrel. I typically write the data on a small notecard so I'm not caught off guard by a fast moving dog and a slow moving electronic device. Basically, this card tells me Range A dial 3.4 mils, Range B dial 4 mils, Range C dial 5 mils etc... that way if I see a dog come from the trail I've already ranged - I can dial real quick and be right on. With new reticles.. I can hold over using the reticle if I need to, but my personal experience is that the more the holdover - the less accurate I am. That's not because my reticle is wrong - it's just because I have more room for error holding over.

This is complicated even more in your northern plains, because you may be holding over for elevation, AND for wind. That's just more and more room for error. If you can dial your elevation in, all you have to worry about is the changing wind - everyone knows how easy that is!