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Gunsmithing ar-10 feeding problems... need help

jacq220

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
its a DPMS ar-10.... the rounds dont want to come up out of the magazine and into the chamber very easily.... the problem is worse when it feeds from the left than when it feeds from the right... can anyone post a picture of how the rounds are supposed to look in relation to the feed lips... i think the lips might be to low making the rounds hit to low on the barrel extension slowing the bolt down enough to where it cannot chamber correctly....

a second problem is if you are trying to cycle the rounds through by hand (snap caps) the bolt is VERY VERY tight to pull back most of the time requiring two hands to cycle the action and eject the round... is this normal for a break in period or does the bolt need some work?

thanks in advance
Nick
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

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Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

thats pretty much what this one looks like.... i lifted the lips alittle and hit helped some... put some dykem on the lips and still dont have any contact with the bolt so i can go a bit higher as well... might try a bit heavier of a recoil spring as well to give it alittle more ass going forward....

but what would cause it to be so hard to cycle rounds by hand? is that just the way ar-10's are or is something else going on?
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

Pull the rear pin and let the upper brake over. Pull the charging handle and see if it's easy, take the bolt carrier group out and look for obvious signs. If all looks good the recoil spring is just stiff/heavy. My charging handle is stiff but, this is a 308 and not 223. 100+ rounds will help, run it wet during the first 100 or so.
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

bolt works find and easy with no tension on it... recoil spring when cyclying by hand feels more than a 5.56 one but almost on the light side compared to what other .308 semis do.... i can cycle the bolt just fine with everything closed but the second you add a round being chambered the bolt is super tight coming out of lock up....

i can drop a round in the barrel with no resistance and with slight tapping get it to fall back out.... so it has something to do with headspacing/bolt lockup???
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JACQ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hardly any at all... definatly less than 100 </div></div>

Shoot it more
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JACQ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">also, how much higher can i take the feed lips the left side still wants to hang up. </div></div>

Mine cycles fine, if your magazine looks like the pictures I posted it should feed fine. Are there any burs on the barrel extension?

Whats it hanging on?
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

Process of elimination - start with the most obvious - are you having the same problem with multiple magazines? It has been posted many times before that some DPMS mags are "a bit out of spec" Try a diffrent mag and see what happens
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

Jacq,
If the round in the mag is not presenting itself sufficient to make contact with the bottom of the bolt adequate to strip off the loaded round from the mag and into the chamber of the rifle the problem may be the mag lips being curled in and down too much. This is possible, but I would hope DPMS has not sent out a product failing to be serviceable for its intended purpose. That makes them lemons, if so. However, this could be one of your problems. The lips might require bending to adjust the round presentation for proper feeding cycle. One may also sand / polish the inside parts of the lips that contact the casing. First, 400 grit, then 600.

Also, on new guns, I have found the carriers' finish to be far too rough for reliable service in my view. I sand the rough finish off with 400 grit sand paper. This allows for slicker sliding of the carrier in the receiver and easier cleaning of the carrier too. Resistance caused by this rough carrier finish can contribute to the problem you're experiencing.

Third, mag springs can be too stiff. Load the mag and leave a few days while some new mag springs from Superior Shooting Systems get shipped, along with:

Buffer Spring. They're crappy too. Get a better one from Tubb. They are better in every way. Since you're ordering springs, replace the hammer and trigger springs too. Remove the recoil spring and clean the recoil spring housing tube while your improved Tubb spring is in transit.

Last, polish the bolt face. Chuck it in a hand operated drill or screw driver. Hold 400 grip sandpaper on the bolt face after having applied some machine oil. Allow some of the sandpaper to enter the bolt face so as to polish the extractor making it easier to jump over the case rim. Using a 223 casing or something similarly sized and shaped, allow some sandpaper with oil to enter completely into the bolt face area on which the case head impacts. Just a few revolutions will do. Finish this polishing procedure by repeating with a cloth, terry or tee shirt, and polishing compound applied such as Flitz or the like. Clean all this mess off with brake cleaner under aerosol pressure.

Grease the lugs, bolt, and carrier. Not oil. Oil will end up on your rounds below the bolt carrier group then in the chamber and thats bad. Use grease. Remove it after shooting with brake cleaner, oil the parts between firings, and remove the oil the same way before shooting and re-apply the grease before firing.

Nothing is wrong with these guns; except sometimes they simply are not ready to be fired (reliably).

Consider an AR doctor to perform this fine tuning.
These are not my ideas, but i've tried them and they work. I got these ideas from:
The Competitive AR15, by Glenn Zediker.
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i can drop a round in the barrel with no resistance and with slight tapping get it to fall back out.... so it has something to do with headspacing/bolt lockup???</div></div>

Sounds like an awful tight chamber since you stated virgin brass and/or factory rounds. Your rounds should drop in and drop out once the upper is pointed muzzle-up. The bolt carrier group should just be reciprocating back-and-forth without you having to demonstrate familiarity with gym equipment techniques to extract and eject an unfired round.

Your feeding stoppage may be caused by the cartridge being jam-headspaced into the chamber by the inertia of your big, heavy carrier group and buffer. A tight chamber will also require a boat-load of force/pressure to extract and eject, especially with an autoloader where the case hasn't fully contracted from firing obturation against your chamber walls.
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scottmilk9</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Try c-products mags instead of dpms mags. </div></div>

+1

Contact sp95 (Scott) - he's got a great price on 'em. Picked up 4 from him a couple of weeks back.
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

Well, I've got to be the a-hole to say it, DPMS dos'nt make AR10's. That said, dont judge anything by the way snap caps feed or extract, they mess up in a couple of my rifles that function flawlessly with real ammo. Make sure your feed ramps are big and smoooth, like M4 ramps. Let us know what fixes it. Good luck.

okie
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

I have a DPMS AP4 and have not any problem at all. What did DPMS say? I load Rem 180 core-lok mild with standard dies and it chambers, feeds, and extract manually easy. The AP4 has the 7.62 nato chamber, the others have a tighter chamber. Take a mag apart and bend some of the tension off the spring, you can always bend it back.
 
Re: ar-10 feeding problems... need help

My GAP DPMS Ar-10 is not that hard to cycle like you describe, don't know what would cause that but it doesn't sound normal.