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AR carbon scaper
- Thread starter mosin46
- Start date
I occasionally use the Otis Tech BONE tool, although I don't get OCD about removing carbon it works sufficiently well.
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I've heard that too but like anything, if you're stupid with it it can cause damage. Sit there for five minutes turning away inside the BCG and on the bolt...well that's probably not going to be good. Coming from the days when in my unit we'd use the edges of cleaning rods and coat hangers to clean our M4's to get them past the armorer, a couple quick turns of the BONE or CAT tool probably isn't going to hurt anything in the long run.
not planning to go crazy with one. pretty gentile with any cleaning. just loosen and remove big build ups. never used so thought to ask.
If you feel the need to clean out your carrier tri-bore cavity, just soak it with CLP or Slip2000 bore cleaner until the carbon releases and is easily cleaned out.
Metal-on-metal is not a good idea because it can egg out some of the critical dimensions.
The main reason they had us white-glove weapons in the military is because armorer gauges won’t show correct readings when everything has carbon caked on it, and the gauges will wear with continuous abrasion against carbon fouling if present, especially in the carrier bore, chamber, and barrel bore.
CLP will do its job if you let it sit and are patient. Carbon-scrapers aren’t the approach I would use anymore if you’re trying to pass a white glove inspection/ORS.
If you use something other than CLP, be aware of the potential to cause the carrier key mate to be compromised if the solvent eats at the sealant that is used between the key and carrier. I have seen that when Joes used unauthorized maintenance with penetrating solvents on their bolt carriers, then the keys came loose.
There are some fundamental disconnects in the knowledge base among the leadership and weapons maintenance, even though the Army has spent insane amounts of engineering efforts to nail-down all of this. Bad habits in units get passed down, like firing pins used as scraper tools for the carbon inside the carrier, common automotive solvents, while assuming that CLP is trash from the lowest bidder.
There are some big dots in the military that don’t get connected for whatever reasons.
Metal-on-metal is not a good idea because it can egg out some of the critical dimensions.
The main reason they had us white-glove weapons in the military is because armorer gauges won’t show correct readings when everything has carbon caked on it, and the gauges will wear with continuous abrasion against carbon fouling if present, especially in the carrier bore, chamber, and barrel bore.
CLP will do its job if you let it sit and are patient. Carbon-scrapers aren’t the approach I would use anymore if you’re trying to pass a white glove inspection/ORS.
If you use something other than CLP, be aware of the potential to cause the carrier key mate to be compromised if the solvent eats at the sealant that is used between the key and carrier. I have seen that when Joes used unauthorized maintenance with penetrating solvents on their bolt carriers, then the keys came loose.
There are some fundamental disconnects in the knowledge base among the leadership and weapons maintenance, even though the Army has spent insane amounts of engineering efforts to nail-down all of this. Bad habits in units get passed down, like firing pins used as scraper tools for the carbon inside the carrier, common automotive solvents, while assuming that CLP is trash from the lowest bidder.
There are some big dots in the military that don’t get connected for whatever reasons.
A lot of guys on the site swear by Bortec C4 or Sharpshooter carb out. There is a definite advantage to using something that's specifically engineered for carbon. Not that CLP doesn't work but by all reports these are much better
If you buy some silicone plugs it would make the area really easy to soak if needed
If you buy some silicone plugs it would make the area really easy to soak if needed
I'd put more effort into an area that mattered, like the firing pin channel, cam, bolt surfaces, under the extractor for some suggestions.
me too! what's a carbon scraper?Past 25yrs I've used a VIVA brand/type (Disposable shop towel) folded over till it fits the BCG hole, soaked with CLP/solvent of choice, and titty twist that bitch in there a few-five times and done. What wackadoodle shit have ya'll contrived?
tx for the replies. scaper is something i thought about and always had doubts on for all the above stuff. have never used CLP and prob never will. back in the 80s,as i remember,there were issues with it. only one i remember relates to the m-79. carbon buildup bothers me as i see no benefit in letting it accumulate. carbon builup in chamber throat also a prob. have followed the carbon ring removal talk on here and am going to try and setup,a process to remove it.
Unless the only thing that you will ever clean with it is a single BCG, get an ultrasonic cleaner. They're cheap.
I think that stuff has been around for a long time, my platoon sergeant used to use it some, the rest of us troglodytes used homemade scrapers lol. I may have to see if the LGS still carries Slip products.
This is all you need, spray inside the carrier and on the bolt and let it sit for 20 minutes, it will turn the Carbon in to a blue gel. I use the wooden Q-tips and if anything needs to be scraped you can use the wood end of the Q-tip, that way it won't mar anything inside carrier or on the bolt.
Same. I've shot many tens of thousands of rounds through AR's and I've never found this carbon buildup other people are always scraping.
You guys probably run your bolts and bolt carriers wet most people put 2 drops of oil on everything and call it good despite the grinding metal on metal sounds
I apply a drop of oil at places that show wear. Cycling the bolt, there is a wet line inside the receiver where the BCG rides. Seems a practical use of lube.
Half the time I grab a syringe and dribble oil all over, wipe it down with a finger, and let the excess run off onto a rag for a few minutes before I put it back together.
The other half I pull the truck dipstick a few times and just whack oil all over, because it was getting sluggish not being lubed in 2000+ rounds and I just didn't think of it.
Either way, motor oil is so much thicker than most gun oils that the main thing is it doesn't burn off in the first mag.
It probably doesn't have any detergents to help with carbon like motor oil, but if you're the type to actually clean them I'd imagine it stays put.
I have a few gallons of full synthetic Stihl bar oil, I may give it a try.
It’s part of Colt’s assembly process for the key to carrier.
They used aviation-grade high temp-tolerant Permatex form-a-seal compound to make a sealant-based O-ring between the key and carrier in the pocket, after de-greasing the carrier, then torque the fasteners down to spec and check with gauges for dimensional uniformity/alignment for proper gas tube mating.
Have you tried the Hoppes Black yet? The Carbon and Copper cleaners are the best I've found to date.
What are you using for Lube? I haven't found anything better than Slip2000 EWL 30
mobil 1 is the best, use 5 weight and then tell me slip is better. Mobil stays on, protects, designed to not allow carbon to build up in any single area, high and low temp thresholds. plus it's cheap!
I have not. The only gun specific lubes or cleaners I have are whatever is currently scattered all over the prize tables in my area. So Radco CLP and Lucas oil products lately.
I pretty much only use motor oil though, whatever is out in the garage. So mostly Mobil 1 for European diesels lol.
