AR trigger work

[Gasitman]

<span style="font-weight: bold">JUST FYI, I am reposting this, not my own stuff, found this on another forum.</span>


Here is where I got the idea http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm

So a buddy and I decided last night to do some trigger work on our ARs after I found this article. Figured some of you guys might find it interesting. We actually did 4 guns last night, the only thing we didn't do that this guy does is the actual polishing method on the trigger. We pulled them apart and used a dremel with a polishing wheel and some very light polishing compound to clean and polish the hammer sear. We did not take any metal off the trigger or sear just polished them. Here is the run down on the gun's we worked on.


S&W M&P.5.56cal. Trigger measured at approx. 7lbs before work with horrible feeling creep. I say approx. because this one was all over the board but averaged in this area. After the work creep is very smooth but still there, with a consistent 4.75 lb pull.

DPMS LR308 Trigger measured 8lbs consistent with horrible creep. Now on this gun I wasn't very comfortable with cutting the hammer spring it is much stiffer than the others we worked on. I might change my mind though. After polishing and trigger spring work it measured at consistent 5.75lbs, creep is much smoother as well.

Olympic Arms 5.56cal. Trigger measured at a consistent 6 lbs with creep. After work trigger measured consistent 3.75 lbs with smooth creep. One thing I want to say about this gun, in my opinion this gun has the best feeling trigger out of the bunch even before the work it was smoother and lighter than the rest.

DPMS 204cal. Trigger measured consistent 7lbs with bad creep. After work trigger measured consistent 4.90 lbs with smoothed creep. This gun had noticeably stiffer springs than the others. I don't think it has anything to do with caliber but more to do with brand.

I also ordered some Jard 3.5 lb trigger springs $10.00, when I get them I will report how they work out. I also had to order a few other items that I need to install before I actually get to go shoot the guns. I will keep you guys posted on how they work out.

Anyone else been messing with there black guns lately?

 

[Furtaker_.223]

Re: AR trigger work

What polishing compound did you use? That is a big gap on pull. I will want to try this. Also where did you order your springs from?

 

[Gasitman]

Re: AR trigger work

As the first line in the post says, I did not do this, I simply posted this off a differnet gun forum.

 

[6.5x61Super]

Re: AR trigger work

..for you homegrown gunsmiths.....BEWARE of "polishing" or "stoning" hardened surfaces......once you remove the surface hardening, all BETS are off...

 

[rng]

Re: AR trigger work

Greetings,
Recently used the JP Reduced power spring kit in my Varmint AR. Got it down to 3.5-4 lbs.

Brownells

I wouldn't recommend using the reduced power springs or modifying the originals in a tactical AR.

Decided I wanted a two-stage and picked up the RRA for $115.00. So far I like it.

+10 on what 6.5x61 Super said. Polishing the trigger and sear is best left to those who make a living doing it.

If you want to lighten the trigger on a NON-tactical, swap out the springs for $10.00 and go out and shoot it. It smooths out on it's own after awhile. Order Rydol Boron Nitride sear compound from JP while you're at it. Supposed to be trigger job in a bottle. If you don't want to spring for the lube, Permatex Anti-Size compound stays put pretty well.

Wishing you the best. Be safe and happy shooting.

Regards,
Richard

 

[AXEMAN]

Re: AR trigger work

the guy in the video references rubbing compound just like you would find at any auto parts store for polishing

 

[Casey Simpson]

Re: AR trigger work

I've used Flitz successfully. Tubb CS springs upgrade too. See too www.zediker.com/springs.
For lube, I mix Slide Glide with Boron Nitride. Slick!

Use a leather belt, the smooth side. Rub the sear gently along the leather surface in long even strokes. One or two will do. Get ready to be surprised.

 

[jasonZ]

Re: AR trigger work

Tag for future reference, cuz It's interesting as my trigger pull seems like 10lbs

 

[shibumiseeker]

Re: AR trigger work

Hi all, my first post here (some might recognize the username from other boards). I've been lurking for a long time though

I have found that crappy AR triggers smooth right up with lots of dry fire, or once they get several thousand rounds through them. When I build one if I'm using a cheaper LPK I'll take the lower, put my thumb over the hammer to catch it (to not let it fall on the bolt stop) and work it a bunch (a couple thousand times) while doing something else like watching a movie. I'll do the same thing when I am practicing shooting positions, I'll strap a block of wood to the lower to catch the hammer. This helps with muscle memory and helps smooth up the triggers.

 

[carbinero]

Re: AR trigger work

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shibumiseeker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have found that crappy AR triggers smooth right up with lots of dry fire, or once they get several thousand rounds through them. When I build one if I'm using a cheaper LPK I'll take the lower, put my thumb over the hammer to catch it (to not let it fall on the bolt stop) and work it a bunch (a couple thousand times) while doing something else like watching a movie. I'll do the same thing when I am practicing shooting positions, I'll strap a block of wood to the lower to catch the hammer. This helps with muscle memory and helps smooth up the triggers. </div></div>

+1 to that. Amazing how much better a milspec trigger gets after thousands of pulls. I've found even the best "trigger smith" can leave you with a non-serviceable modified milspec trigger over time. As in, it won't pass safety.

I have tried lots of options, and now would bet the best thing you can spend money on, if you want a better trigger, starts with "G" and ends in "eissele." Midway is now running a tremendous special on the new super dynamic line. Before too long, Geissele looks to drop a $125 budget trigger on the market, which will then IMHO obliterate the AR trigger market.

 

[Furtaker_.223]

Re: AR trigger work

I do not want to file anything, polish maybee. I did a few of my triggers in my hunting rifles. I use a drimmel polish wheel. I would like to try a better polish than the one I use now.

I will have to try the flitz.

 

[WARDOG]

Re: AR trigger work

The word 'Dremel' and 'Gun' give the shivers whn they are combined in a sentence.
I work part time in a gunsmith shop, (I am a machinist, not a gunsmith). We see some really hacked up rifles from do-it-yourself'ers. 'Dremels' and a lack of patience are the two biggest offenders (aside from shooting with the boresighter pluggin' the end of the barrel).
The gunsmiths remove the material by hand, with a fine diamond or file made for that purpose. <span style="font-style: italic">NO</span> Dremels or Foredom's used. They <span style="font-style: italic">don't</span> remove material squarely and they can take too much material off, faster than you can ay, <span style="font-style: italic">"Oh Shi...". </span> The sear is set in a block, or machinist vise squarely. Polishing is usually done with a "CRATEX" block which is a rubberized block with varying grit abrasives.
It takes a trained gunsmith about 40 - 60 minutes to do a trigger on an AR and it costs between $80 - $100.
For a few extra $'s you can purchase a replacement trigger.
Single stage trigger require a certain amount of pull to maintain the safety of the mechanism, two stage triggers and you can get away with ounces of pull.
Cubic Boron Nitride is one of the hardest materials known to man. It will certainly remove material, but it can also migrate onto other parts and 'grind-away' until it is discovered.
My 2 cents worth.