ARC Barloc
- Thread starter goinghunting
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Can you leave the barrel nut tight and just use the barloc for changing barrels, or do you still take off the barrel nut to change barrels?
The barrel but is only tight once the cross bolt is tightened.
You will screw the barrel until it hits on the go gauge, then you screw the barrel nut down until touches the barloc. At this point you would traditionally torque it tight with the vice and action wrench and nut wrench but with the barloc all you have to do instead is just tighten the cross bolt to tension the entire system.
You can leave it but would need another Barloc for each barrel. Some guys talk about loctite'ing the nut but it isn't worth the hassle.
Spife described it accurately. Thread barrel in till it contacts the gauge. Thread barrel nut in till it hits the Barloc, then tighten the crossbolt and you're done.
Nice, I have a Nucleus coming at some point with the barloc. Do you know if that setup would fit in an aiax chassis or will the forend interfere?
You wouldn't need a separate Barloc, just a Barloc barrel nut if you Loktite.
I imagine ARC would sell those separately and probably not too expensive compared to other aftermarket Savage barrel nuts.
The idea to Loktite would be to time the barrel with witness marks which could potentially return to zero better than setting it by the gauge every time.
I imagine ARC would sell those separately and probably not too expensive compared to other aftermarket Savage barrel nuts.
The idea to Loktite would be to time the barrel with witness marks which could potentially return to zero better than setting it by the gauge every time.
I think you're trying to do something it wasn't really designed for with that. Give it a shot but I don't think you're going to get AI or DT return to zero out of this system regardless of how many marks you use.
Be happy Ted came up with a simple device at/under $150 that converts your rifle to something you can change barrels and calibers on without a vice, at the range.
When you're done, rezero and be happy. Having installed mine this week another issue is wrench clearance under the scope. It will depend on ring height and barrel contour.
I'll have to remove my scope to swap barrels. Seeing as how I'd rezero immediately anyway...that doesn't upset me. I'm grateful that I can swap a training barrel out and a match barrel in at the end of a practice day prior to a match.
Rezero, Chrono the match load, ready to go. Opposite is true next time you hit the range for practice. Match caliber off, practice caliber on, rezero, off to the races.
Be happy Ted came up with a simple device at/under $150 that converts your rifle to something you can change barrels and calibers on without a vice, at the range.
When you're done, rezero and be happy. Having installed mine this week another issue is wrench clearance under the scope. It will depend on ring height and barrel contour.
I'll have to remove my scope to swap barrels. Seeing as how I'd rezero immediately anyway...that doesn't upset me. I'm grateful that I can swap a training barrel out and a match barrel in at the end of a practice day prior to a match.
Rezero, Chrono the match load, ready to go. Opposite is true next time you hit the range for practice. Match caliber off, practice caliber on, rezero, off to the races.
You would agree that the barloc is supposed to make caliber changes/barrel swaps much faster without needing an action wrench and barrel vise correct? Ideally it would be nice to be able to leave the action in the stock or chassis, and do a caliber change the way similar to an axmc which is how I understood it to work. If you have to remove the scope and pull the action every time, I’m not sure I see the value.
I didn't say you have to pull the action. I said depending upon your rings and barrel contour you may have to pull the scope off if there isn't room for the little wrench.
I should point out the wrench only factors in on the barrel nut version of the Barloc. If you're running the non nut version it will be simpler. At least on barrel swaps. It may complicate sourcing the barrel in the first place.
I'm going with the nut version since non shouldered prefits are more plentiful. I would rather have the ability to use any savage thread prefit.
I should point out the wrench only factors in on the barrel nut version of the Barloc. If you're running the non nut version it will be simpler. At least on barrel swaps. It may complicate sourcing the barrel in the first place.
I'm going with the nut version since non shouldered prefits are more plentiful. I would rather have the ability to use any savage thread prefit.
So who are you that you already got the barrel nut version in your hands? haha.
Umm, someone with a Visa card and access to the internet? Seriously, I just placed an order direct with ARC a couple of weeks ago and it shipped next day. I know they just came out, but are they hard to come by right now?
Hmm, don't know. Mine was for a Mausingfield without recoil lug, maybe they are running them in batches.
Let provide better context for my scenario, and why I mentioned pulling the action. So I pre ordered the nucleus action with barrel nut barloc with the intent to drop it in an aiax chassis. I guess I have two concerns at this point. 1) will there even be enough clearance for the barloc to clear the forend? 2) If it clears the forend, would the nut be covered by the forend.
So I suppose if it clears and ends up being covered by the forend, I would only need to remove it (and potentially the scope) vs pulling the action right? Ted had previously sent me a note stating that he thought it would clear the forend, but that’s pretty tight space. Thanks for any additional insights.
Worst case scenario is the forend contacts the barloc not allowing that chassis to work with that setup. If that’s not the case, then I think you’re correct in what I may need to do regarding the forend removal etc. and would be easier than the traditional route. I’ll just have to test fit once I get it, and go from there.
I’ll post pics so that others have a reference
I’ll post pics so that others have a reference
It looks like the barloc might not fit with extended front rails. Anyone know if the barloc rides underneath the extended portion of the rail? I have seekins rails on a savage and rem 700 and am concerned they might contact each other.
It will need to be modified by either milling flush with the action or milling part of the rail for the barloc to fit underneath.
I have a pic of mine in this thread
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/arc-barloc-estimated-shipping-date.6874124/
The bigger issue with the rails is if you need it extended, the Barlok might prevent a ring from clamping on the extended portion.
On a recoil lug style Barlok, the extended rail might be a good idea so it can be milled to fit a Nucleus style recoil lug tab so you don't have to pin the receiver.
On a recoil lug style Barlok, the extended rail might be a good idea so it can be milled to fit a Nucleus style recoil lug tab so you don't have to pin the receiver.
If you look at the ARC Nucleus product page there are photos of the recoil lug and scope rail.
I don't recall if the Barlok version is pictured but it should be a similar recoil lug except for a raised taper that the Barlok clamp pushes against.
I don't recall if the Barlok version is pictured but it should be a similar recoil lug except for a raised taper that the Barlok clamp pushes against.
So I’ve been wondering if the nucleus will fit in an aics ax chassis with barloc barrel nut version. I looked at my current setup again and realized I have an extended rail on remy aac sd. I’m now thinking it might fit with the nucleus when looking at the pic above. Still might need some milling, but definitely promising.
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Anyone know if the shouldered version would work/not work with the nucleus action since it doesn’t have an integral recoil lug? I see PVA is making match barrels for the nucleus, and think that could be a good setup??
It depends if you got the Nucleus with the barloc or if you got it with the standard recoil lug.
We need to know which of the 3 variations of BarLoc you want to use and we will accomodate the barrel to that setup. If you have a regular recoil lug in the nucleus and you want a shouldered barrel we can do that, it's straight up in the programming. I change some variables based on what you request and we make it happen.
My original order has the Barloc with barrel nut, but I’ve requested to have the shoulder barreled version instead (thinking this is a not an issue since it isn’t ready yet). So If I get the switch made on my order, would that work? My understanding is that the recoil lug isn’t pinned etc. Are there different options regarding the lug? If I want to use your shouldered barrel with that action, what should I specify I want?
I’m Ted’s YouTube video about the barloc he talks about large threads liking a lot of torque. It seemed like in one of his first barloc videos he was more excited about the pre-load on the threads than anything else. This got me thinking about accuracy improvements...
I’ve read that TacOps uses a crazy amount of torque when installing their barrels as part of their secret recipe so I’m wondering if anyone has observed accuracy improvements with the same barrel after installing the barloc.
I’ve read that TacOps uses a crazy amount of torque when installing their barrels as part of their secret recipe so I’m wondering if anyone has observed accuracy improvements with the same barrel after installing the barloc.
Most benchrest shooters don't hardly torque their barrels, less so than us tactical shooters, they laugh at our 1/2" guns because to win they need sub 1/4" all day long match after match.
Once I get time to put my Barloc on my shouldered barrels I'll be doing it.
The big difference between the tactical style shooting, actual tactical/military and benchrest shooters is sighters. The BR shooters will spin a barrel on, shoot a handful of sighters, let it rip for record.
Placing the system of the barrel threads and receiver threads in the elastic range will provide the greatest repeatability and consistency in a wide range of conditions from freezing ass cold to roasting your balls off. Due to barrel diameters we are working in the low range of the elastic range. For example 18-8 stainless steel bolts 1" should be torqued to 289 ftlb. Just off hand from when I originally saw the Barloc proper torque on the Barloc resulted in ~120ftlb of torque in the barrel and receiver connection. I have had my Barloc on the bench for a while now. Just no time! Once i get time to spin up my 7mm SS barrel I'll have some more motivation to get it done.
The big difference between the tactical style shooting, actual tactical/military and benchrest shooters is sighters. The BR shooters will spin a barrel on, shoot a handful of sighters, let it rip for record.
Placing the system of the barrel threads and receiver threads in the elastic range will provide the greatest repeatability and consistency in a wide range of conditions from freezing ass cold to roasting your balls off. Due to barrel diameters we are working in the low range of the elastic range. For example 18-8 stainless steel bolts 1" should be torqued to 289 ftlb. Just off hand from when I originally saw the Barloc proper torque on the Barloc resulted in ~120ftlb of torque in the barrel and receiver connection. I have had my Barloc on the bench for a while now. Just no time! Once i get time to spin up my 7mm SS barrel I'll have some more motivation to get it done.
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